For some older guns id suggest not dry firing them that period, just cycling them, though Id just take it apart and use one of brownells small triangular ceramic stone to clean up the parts, and/or use some 320-400-600+grit wet or dry paper on a piece of glass. Its not rocket surgery and doesnt have to be done to extremes to improve them significantly.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
Sigh.....Originally Posted by camel
Malo periculosam, libertatem quam quietam servitutem
I prefer the tumult of liberty to the quiet of servitude
-Thomas Jefferson
I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery.
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KROIL is great stuff, will penetrate between fouling and bore.
You can buy it much cheaper by the Gallon from some of the target shooting supply houses.
Keep it away from optics, primers, anything you want to remained sealed.
A few years back one of the fun old guys at the trap and skeet club was telling us about how (when the Grand American trapshoot was local) they would back bore all of their guns by running a automotive brake cylinder hone up and down the barrel, including a few strokes in the fixed (presumably full) choke area. Eventually they started offering it as a service, taking turns staying up all night customizing barrels. The customers were happy because they shot better, probably because IMO most trap shooters shoot more choke than they need.
Don't try telling them that.The private range where I shoot has the good-old-boys club. Nobody there knows me but I used to shoot a lot of trap at a different club. The GOB's immediately informed me that I needed a full choke to shoot from the 16. I also noticed that they preferred shooting from the 27. Pattern too tight from 16 maybe? It's a fun game anyway. Just been away from it for a long time. I got bored with shooting clays and sold all my gear.
In the P-F basket of deplorables.
They want to see that puff of smoke, I guess it is OK with them when they do not.
That was the thing about Larry, the guy I was referring to. Nicest dude in the world, who I am pretty sure had a ton of money but dressed like he was broke. He would work on his Krieghoff K-80s like they were old trucks, he didn't care as long as the targets broke.
This can turn into a spreader choke, especially with softer shot. The increased pellet deformation can open up a pattern considerably. Some of the old hands at the patterning board even loved to start with reclaimed shot which was already deformed and keep them set aside for stages they wanted a fat pattern. Particularly with fixed choke guns necessitating such things, you can do some neat stuff with load selection.
Having done what the OP listed back in the 70s. It works as a final polish after high and rough spots knocked off the internals. Ultra Brite was the toothpaste of choice due to the silica content. When finished which might require more than one cleaning and application. Total flush of frame, parts and springs with hot water then let dry.
Haven't performed this maneuver since the middle 70s.
Or as one Deputy used to do, give it to the dispatchers on graveyard shift and let them give a few thousand presses on the trigger. I know a different time and culture.
We're talking PPC guns here and a Sunday Monday graveyard shift in a rural county.
We used to use Pearl Drops to lap in model railroad locomotive gearboxes. Is that still made?
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
I strongly recommend viewing this if you want to DIY a basic action job:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014247174?pid=262030.
And probably the Kuhnhausen book as well.
Both were made/written in the forged era, but it all applies to MIM as well.
Bright, shiny parts do not automatically equal a smooth, even trigger. Parts have to be in the correct relation to each other and stay that way through cycling.
For example, on my GP100 (Match Champion, no less), the “hammer dog” as Ruger calls it (I call it the DA hammer sear) has so much side-to-side play in its slot, I think it could’ve tied the gun up eventually. .008 worth of shims got it to behave.
I could’ve polished parts till Christmas and not gotten that much improvement in the DA pull.
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