S&W 686 "no dash" fire control parts kit

[Hambo]

I'd like to just swap out the fire control parts wholesale to start with a blank slate.

Sorry, but using "fire control parts" in relation to a revolver makes me cringe. A no dash still had everything fitted/stoned to make it work.

@revchuck38 is spot on about the recall and where to start with your revolver. A new mainspring and strain screw should cure your light strike problem, but the DA trigger is going to be stiff. The strain screw was (maybe still is) a fitted part. Stone it carefully and you lighten the trigger pull. Stone it too much and you're back to where you started.

Sending it to Cylinder and Slide would be another option.

[Malamute]

Thanks guys, I'm going to try to source a new S&W mainspring and screw and see if that doesn't do the trick.

At the very least its a solid first step to make further accurate diagnosis if it doesnt solve the problem.

Im not aware of mainspring strain screws being fitted. I know people do it, but Im not aware of it being a factory practice. Im open to learning.

[358156hp]

Hey guys,

I have an early 686 (no dash, just 686) that keeps giving me trouble with light primer strikes. I've tightened up the mainspring screw and loctited it in place, but the issue persists.

I am beginning to suspect one of the previous owners has done his own gunsmithing on this poor thing, and I'd like to just swap out the fire control parts wholesale to start with a blank slate.

Trouble is, I don't know which parts I should buy. I know Apex makes well-reputed parts, such as this kit: https://www.apextactical.com/22-mass-driver-hammer-kit (although I also want a new mainspring in case some idiot has cut this one at some point in the past.)

However, it says it is for "current production" L-frames. I know the design/placement of the firing pin has changed between generations, so the question is.. what can I buy that will fit my gun? What would you guys recommend?

This kit doesn't have the correct hammer for your application anyway. You'll need one that has the replaceable firing pin nose, and the kit shown is for a late model (Post '97) MIM part replacement with the frame mounted firing pin. I see Ron Power lists them, but Brownells doesn't seem to have any on hand. http://powercustom.com/store/index.p...oducts_id=1372

You might also check the condition of your hammer nose to make certain it isn't worn or altered, but I too suspect replacing the springs will cure what it is likely an overdone trigger "job". I'd also simply replace the hammer spring adjustment screw and be done with that whole section. I personally prefer Wolff springs over Wilson after receiving an under length hammer spring from Wilson and fighting it for too long before giving up and ordering a Wolff, which went right in with no drama at all.

[Malamute]

... I'd also simply replace the hammer spring adjustment screw and be done with that whole section...

And this would be one of the differences in thought, the mainspring strain screw has never been termed an "adjustment screw" by the factory and many people working on them. Keith mentioned backing the screw out a bit, a pretty small amount, to help the DA pull, but I found, as did others, that when not snugged down, they can move and back out resulting in light hits. For a gun I'd carry, I chose, as some have said, to always snug the screw down tight. Locktite may be an acceptable alternative to some, but not something I choose to rely on in that application.

Some modify the screw, and I've seen someone tweak the factory mainspring back and forth to give a lighter pull on a game gun, but its somewhat of an imperfect art, partly trial and error, or by feel. I think the guy i saw doing it was pretty good at it and was known for action work, but Im not able or willing to go there on my carry stuff. If one is using a revolver as a range gun, youre pretty wide open, problems are more an embarrassment than real issue. I eventually chose to always err on the side of reliability and live with the action beyond cleaning up the working surfaces. My stuff isnt always clean, but always has worked when not tinkering with the mainspring. YMMV of course.

[jh9]

And this would be one of the differences in thought, the mainspring strain screw has never been termed an "adjustment screw" by the factory and many people working on them.

Agreed. The OEM mainspring and corresponding rb/sq strain screw is how you baseline a reliable gun.

Frank Glenn drilled and tapped my 627 (and a bunch of other peoples' guns) for a set screw so people could adjust the strain screw to taste and have it "stay" but just "backing it out a little" on a stock gun has a well-documented history of failure.

[358156hp]

And this would be one of the differences in thought, the mainspring strain screw has never been termed an "adjustment screw" by the factory and many people working on them. Keith mentioned backing the screw out a bit, a pretty small amount, to help the DA pull, but I found, as did others, that when not snugged down, they can move and back out resulting in light hits. For a gun I'd carry, I chose, as some have said, to always snug the screw down tight. Locktite may be an acceptable alternative to some, but not something I choose to rely on in that application.

Some modify the screw, and I've seen someone tweak the factory mainspring back and forth to give a lighter pull on a game gun, but its somewhat of an imperfect art, partly trial and error, or by feel. I think the guy i saw doing it was pretty good at it and was known for action work, but Im not able or willing to go there on my carry stuff. If one is using a revolver as a range gun, youre pretty wide open, problems are more an embarrassment than real issue. I eventually chose to always err on the side of reliability and live with the action beyond cleaning up the working surfaces. My stuff isnt always clean, but always has worked when not tinkering with the mainspring. YMMV of course.

You are correct. It was designed to be snugged down tightly, and my reference to "adjustment" is incorrect. One of the old tricks to dealing with the strain screw (it's proper name), was to cross drill the grip frame for a setscrew to prevent movement of the strain screw. I really think this was from the days before loctite.

ETA: Or I simply could have read the next post in sequence and kept quiet.

[Hambo]

Im not aware of mainspring strain screws being fitted. I know people do it, but Im not aware of it being a factory practice. Im open to learning.

My recollection may be wrong. A friend, who was trained by S&W, used to touch up the strain screw when he did action jobs. That wasn't all he did, but I remember his warning about going too far. He always tightened it fully.

[Jamie]

Learning has occurred!
Thank you all that have contributed in this thread and P-F in general.
Special Thanks to @Jim Watson and @revchuck38

Why do I say this you ask?

Well, I picked up a S&W Model 10 snub about 4 years ago. Local deal and a great price. Shooter grade, but I'm a shooter, not collector.
I took it apart and cleaned it when I got home. Lubed it up and took it to the range. It shot great, but I'd get light strikes on all but Federal primers.
I replaced the mainspring and made certain the strain screw was snug. The action was very smooth when I purchased the revolver. The internals looked good.

Still got light strikes (failure to ignite) on all but Federal primers. Fortunately I had/have a decent supply of Federal, but way more Winchester.

P-F enabling later I had picked up a 4" Model 10, 4" Model 15 and a 4" model 66. You guys and gals are definitely an influence...mostly positive.

So the snub got relegated to occasional, not weekly use as I was watching my stash of Federal primers.

I read over this thread a couple of times. Then reread it. Which lead me to reexamine this snub Model 10.

I couldn't tell my looking at the end on the strain screw, and it had never occurred to me to measure it before, but a prior owner had obviously shortened the strain screw!

I order a couple of OEM strain screws and what a difference in ignition!

I've put about 100 rounds through it using CCI, Winchester, S.A. (Servicios Aventuras) and Federal primers today. 100% ignition. And those SA primers are kinda hard in my experience.

So Thank you all. If this topic/thread hadn't been started I probably would have never have thought to check.

I wish folks wouldn't do "home trigger jobs" <sigh> ...

I'm gonna really enjoy shooting this snub 10 now.




Strain screw I removed/replaced.


OEM strain screw.