S&W 686 "no dash" fire control parts kit

[jellydonut]

Hey guys,

I have an early 686 (no dash, just 686) that keeps giving me trouble with light primer strikes. I've tightened up the mainspring screw and loctited it in place, but the issue persists.

I am beginning to suspect one of the previous owners has done his own gunsmithing on this poor thing, and I'd like to just swap out the fire control parts wholesale to start with a blank slate.

Trouble is, I don't know which parts I should buy. I know Apex makes well-reputed parts, such as this kit: https://www.apextactical.com/22-mass-driver-hammer-kit (although I also want a new mainspring in case some idiot has cut this one at some point in the past.)

However, it says it is for "current production" L-frames. I know the design/placement of the firing pin has changed between generations, so the question is.. what can I buy that will fit my gun? What would you guys recommend?

[HCM]

Hey guys,

I have an early 686 (no dash, just 686) that keeps giving me trouble with light primer strikes. I've tightened up the mainspring screw and loctited it in place, but the issue persists.

I am beginning to suspect one of the previous owners has done his own gunsmithing on this poor thing, and I'd like to just swap out the fire control parts wholesale to start with a blank slate.

Trouble is, I don't know which parts I should buy. I know Apex makes well-reputed parts, such as this kit: https://www.apextactical.com/22-mass-driver-hammer-kit (although I also want a new mainspring in case some idiot has cut this one at some point in the past.)

However, it says it is for "current production" L-frames. I know the design/placement of the firing pin has changed between generations, so the question is.. what can I buy that will fit my gun? What would you guys recommend?

If it’s just the springs Wilson Combat and other make replacement spring kits. If not:

One option is returning it to S&W.

Another is checking out gun parts corp. for individual parts or every gun part .com and buying a 686 kit (minus chopped frame)

Power custom also makes replacement parts for the older style S&W revolvers.

[Jim Watson]

1. Has it got a Wolff "power rib" mainspring? Or show grinding? If so, replace with Smith or maybe Wilson.

2. Look at the tip of the strain screw. Does it look like it has been filed? Has the soft stainless battered down? If so, replace.

Changing parts on a revolver is not like tinkering with your Ersatz Glock.
If a spring and a screw don't tune it up, I would send it to a real gunsmith.

[revchuck38]

^^^^What Jim said. I’d go with a new strain screw and a new factory S&W mainspring first, you can get them from Numrich or maybe Midwest Gun Works. If they don’t fix the problem, then it’s gunsmith time.

[45dotACP]

Also: The tension screw on round butts is a different length than square butts. I had a round butt that needed a longer tension screw because of light strikes also. Got an extended firing pin and a new screw from Midway...problem solved

[Flamingo]

I have had good luck with everygunpart.com Here are what they have for Smith and Wesson parts.

[Malamute]

Hey guys,

I have an early 686 (no dash, just 686) that keeps giving me trouble with light primer strikes. I've tightened up the mainspring screw and loctited it in place, but the issue persists.

I am beginning to suspect one of the previous owners has done his own gunsmithing on this poor thing, and I'd like to just swap out the fire control parts wholesale to start with a blank slate.

Trouble is, I don't know which parts I should buy. I know Apex makes well-reputed parts, such as this kit: https://www.apextactical.com/22-mass-driver-hammer-kit (although I also want a new mainspring in case some idiot has cut this one at some point in the past.)

However, it says it is for "current production" L-frames. I know the design/placement of the firing pin has changed between generations, so the question is.. what can I buy that will fit my gun? What would you guys recommend?

Under the circumstances of having problems, id stay away from aftermarket parts. When I find them in guns I buy I put new factory mainsprings in them and throw the aftermarket parts away, done. My guns work.

Ive messed with some aftermarket and tweaked factory springs, Its trying to fix whats not really broken, or going about improving DA trigger pulls etc and if it affects overall reliability, I want nothing to do with them. Slicking up moving parts and not springs is the best way to improve an action. In the world today, the first thing people seem to want to do is put some sort of spring kits in them. Its not a replacement for a true action job, and a good action job will be very usable with full power springs.

Starting at zero or a fresh slate to me would be get a factory new mainspring and strain screw appropriate to if square or round butt, and clean and lube the gun. It will probably run.

[revchuck38]

Also, IIRC there was a recall on the early L frames. There was a problem with primers flowing back through the firing pin bushing when using hot .357 ammo, which would lock up the gun. I believe the factory stamped a "-M" after the model number to indicate that the firing pin bushing was replaced. If your 686 doesn't have that "-M" after 686, you might be able to get a free trip back to the mothership for it. S&W as a matter of course replaces all non-factory parts in returned guns, I don't know if they charge for them, so that's a possibility for a fix. I'd call S&W customer service and see what they say. Since it's a 40-year-old revolver, you might be SOL, but it'd be worth a try.

[Malamute]

Also, IIRC there was a recall on the early L frames. There was a problem with primers flowing back through the firing pin bushing when using hot .357 ammo, which would lock up the gun. I believe the factory stamped a "-M" after the model number to indicate that the firing pin bushing was replaced. If your 686 doesn't have that "-M" after 686, you might be able to get a free trip back to the mothership for it. S&W as a matter of course replaces all non-factory parts in returned guns, I don't know if they charge for them, so that's a possibility for a fix. I'd call S&W customer service and see what they say. Since it's a 40-year-old revolver, you might be SOL, but it'd be worth a try.

@Outpost75 may know more details about that.

I recall some reference to certain ammo being problematic in that regard, perhaps Federal with their softer primers? This may be about the time the magnum ammo was reduced in pressure and some guns apparently not actually needing anything changed, but they check and see and it would get the mark if it was good.


Regarding my comment above about tossing non-factory mainsprings, I lost interest in tinkering with guns that didnt work as intended, replacing the mainsprings worked in the instances I had troubles. I dont have patience with guns that arent reliable. If one has a range or game gun and wants to tinker, great, I just like them to be 100% reliable even when dirty etc, not on the ragged edge of reliability to get a slight improvement in DA trigger feel. I try to improve that with cleaning up machine marks inside, not with springs.

[jellydonut]

Thanks guys, I'm going to try to source a new S&W mainspring and screw and see if that doesn't do the trick.