Retooling Draw Index

[rdtompki]

To the OP, I wonder if your support hand grip technique might be driving the gun left with the C2? One way to tell is if increasing or decreasing grip pressure with left hand affects the way the gun points. If that’s the case then adjusting hand position, direction of grip pressure, and/or arm position might help your index be more robust/consistent.

The P’s grip shape might be more forgiving with your hand size and technique which is why you’re seeing instant improvement vs the C2.

Very possible. I'll have both guns at the range tomorrow. It may be that the strict 3 o'clock holster position was affecting the quality of my C2 strong hand grip although the slighter longer P grip is a better fit. I'll report back.

[rdtompki]

When all was said and done the P holster is at the same 3 o'clock that worked for my 1911 for 10 years; engineers think way too much and my tendency to "try this, try that" did more harm than good.
After this change the only residual issue was a tendency toward a consistent index left of target. This disappeared completely when I stopped being so deliberate in getting to the gun (from surrender), reverting to the more natural motion/speed that I'd been using for several years. Appreciate all the input.

[JCS]

It won’t take 30k draws or anywhere close to that. I’m going through a very similar thing switching from a Staccato to CZ. My index was to the right with the CZ and it definitely is related to the difference in grip size. A few weeks of dry fire and it’s mostly gone.

One thing I have done is found the correct hand position needed for a perfect index and before I draw I’ll get my hand on the gun and hold it there for a second “feeling” what the perfect hand position feels like and then on the draw I’ll access that memory.

I have found any slight change in holster position or can’t will also throw my draw off temporarily.

[Clusterfrack]

…switching from a Staccato to CZ…

This makes me happy.

And good post. The only thing I have to add is that it is a good idea to separate your index from your draw. From hands just touching, a good index will produce automatic sight / dot alignment on presentation. I do that as a warmup before every session.

So I’d start with basic index first, and once that’s solid, then add the draw.

[YVK]

It won’t take 30k draws or anywhere close to that. I’m going through a very similar thing switching from a Staccato to CZ. My index was to the right with the CZ and it definitely is related to the difference in grip size. A few weeks of dry fire and it’s mostly gone.

I'm going the other way, Shadow2 to 2011, and I'm disgusted with how long it's taking me. Freestyle is more or less ok, strong hand about same, weak hand crap, weak hand off NPE total crap. I'm coming to a conclusion that 2011 is an overhyped non-ergonomic brick. I find Glocks to be more ergonomic.

[JCN]

I'm going the other way, Shadow2 to 2011, and I'm disgusted with how long it's taking me. Freestyle is more or less ok, strong hand about same, weak hand crap, weak hand off NPE total crap. I'm coming to a conclusion that 2011 is an overhyped non-ergonomic brick. I find Glocks to be more ergonomic.

I did a DWX in order to avoid having to retrain grip angle.

After a little testing, I like the low bore axis of the Shadow 2 better and went back to it.

I just don’t shoot enough these days to justify an overhaul.

[Gio]

It won’t take 30k draws or anywhere close to that.

I agree with this. I'm also switching from a Glock to a Tanfo this off season and it only took about a week of dry firing 15-20 minutes a night to have my index draw on point.