Taurus…

[jetfire]

I do want to circle back on the original topic of this post, because I was able to pull the repair record. Because the customer input was "ejection rod sticks and binds" the gunsmith conducted a function check, which of course involves checking the ejector rod. Next is test fire, and since a sticky ejector rod was the complaint, they fired six, ejected the empties and observed objector rod function, noting no issues. So they fired six more, observed ejector rod function, functioned checked the gun again, and said "no problems noted."

Which to be frank is absolutely the correct procedure, and interestingly takes me to the takeaway I want to stick in people's brains. Clearly, there's something wrong with OP's gun that needs to be fixed. It could be fixed likely by replacing the ejector rod springs. However, based on the customer input the gun was appropriately tested and no issues were observed. This is true no matter who you're sending a gun to for repair - it's really important to note the mechanism of failure. "The ejector rod sticks" doesn't really help the repair department so much as "when performing a vigorous reload and striking the ejector rod with force, it binds to the rear."

[FrankB]

I'm just comparing the quality of a S&W N frame built in 2010 and one built in 1968.... side by side. The process to produce those firearms has changed. Along with that, quality and quality control has been compromised. Firearms get shipped to dealers that should have never left the factory. Dealers in turn sell those firearms to unsuspecting customers. Unsuspecting customers then return the product, sometimes multiple times, without the problem being resolved. Unsuspecting customer then posts their experience on the internet.

After stepping deep into Colt Pythons, I sold my 2.5”, 3”, and 4” 686+ revolvers. I’ve since purchased new 2.5” and 4” models. They were both from a local shop (Classic Pistol), and I know they check them before putting anything on display. I carry feeler gauges in my glove box, but only to check B/C gaps. The two 686’s I bought this year both had tight .006” gaps, zero endshake, and timing was perfect. All of the many S&W revolvers were excellent. There is another local shop that has a brand new M28, and the cylinder barely moves; they don’t care. S&W sells a tremendous number of revolvers, as seen in the attached chart.

[Tamara]

I have others built before 68 to compare to.

I'm not doubting you, just pointing out that even as far back as 1968 we were well into the "luck of the draw" years in the QC department at Smith. And then came 1970...

Somewhere John Ross had a detailed essay on the changes made to the N-prefix N-frames versus the earlier S-prefix guns, but I can't find it online.

[jeep45238]

While I still think a spring wound with both ends closed and ground flat would work, another approach would be a stroke limiting collar like what Aristocrat makes for Smiths.

https://www.aristocratproducts.com/page3.html

I'll stick with OEM parts and not adding something to the system for this. The 2" guns don't have the issue from what I can gather, and the 3" runs the same parts with a slightly longer rod. There's a lot more info here on this : https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....quot-vs-3-quot

[jeep45238]

I do want to circle back on the original topic of this post, because I was able to pull the repair record. Because the customer input was "ejection rod sticks and binds" the gunsmith conducted a function check, which of course involves checking the ejector rod. Next is test fire, and since a sticky ejector rod was the complaint, they fired six, ejected the empties and observed objector rod function, noting no issues. So they fired six more, observed ejector rod function, functioned checked the gun again, and said "no problems noted."

Which to be frank is absolutely the correct procedure, and interestingly takes me to the takeaway I want to stick in people's brains. Clearly, there's something wrong with OP's gun that needs to be fixed. It could be fixed likely by replacing the ejector rod springs. However, based on the customer input the gun was appropriately tested and no issues were observed. This is true no matter who you're sending a gun to for repair - it's really important to note the mechanism of failure. "The ejector rod sticks" doesn't really help the repair department so much as "when performing a vigorous reload and striking the ejector rod with force, it binds to the rear."

Serious question on this - I described mine pretty detailed to the CS rep. Is the disconnect at that point in the chain by chance?

I know I included a more detailed letter with my last one because I thought the rep would distill it down for time's sake.

Is there a way for that information to be successfully captured and entered into the system, even if provided by the end user on paper with the revolver?

[jetfire]

Serious question on this - I described mine pretty detailed to the CS rep. Is the disconnect at that point in the chain by chance?

I know I included a more detailed letter with my last one because I thought the rep would distill it down for time's sake.

Is there a way for that information to be successfully captured and entered into the system, even if provided by the end user on paper with the revolver?

This makes me more curious as to what your ticket said as well.

So the simple answer is that there's no guaranteed way to get that through to a rep at any company, because they're humans. Your best bet is to keep it short but detailed: describe the issue, describe the circumstances that caused the issue, and make sure to tell the rep to put all of that in the ticket.

But the other problem is that the vast majority of people who call in to customer service with busted guns don't have 1/3rd the technical knowledge of the average PF user, but that person THINKS they know more about revolvers than I do. So our reps hear a lot of "well I know what I'm doing and this has never happened before" so they have to sort the good from the bad, and sometimes the good gets tossed on accident.

I no joke had a dude tell me the TH-series pistol I sent him for review was broken because he couldn't get the slide back on, and the whole time it was because the disconnector was flipped up blocking the slide. But he's an "expert"

[jeep45238]

This makes me more curious as to what your ticket said as well.

So the simple answer is that there's no guaranteed way to get that through to a rep at any company, because they're humans. Your best bet is to keep it short but detailed: describe the issue, describe the circumstances that caused the issue, and make sure to tell the rep to put all of that in the ticket.

But the other problem is that the vast majority of people who call in to customer service with busted guns don't have 1/3rd the technical knowledge of the average PF user, but that person THINKS they know more about revolvers than I do. So our reps hear a lot of "well I know what I'm doing and this has never happened before" so they have to sort the good from the bad, and sometimes the good gets tossed on accident.

I no joke had a dude tell me the TH-series pistol I sent him for review was broken because he couldn't get the slide back on, and the whole time it was because the disconnector was flipped up blocking the slide. But he's an "expert"

True. CS is not a job I envy, guess I should have used a different word there.

Meanwhile my only problem since is launching the retaining plate for the mainspring across the room while replacing the spring during my lunch break. Flashlights, magnets, and luck are needed now

[TeflonDon]

Double post

[jeep45238]

Based on what you discribe, it's clearly either an out extractor rod near the knurling and/or a problem with the spring. The fact that it only binds when FULLY depressed logically leaded me to believe the issue is less to do with the spring. My guess is that the knurling is getting stuck in the yoke. Early new product Colt Cobras had a simular issue before they updated the design. If it was a weak or broken spring, I'd think the problem would also exist when the spring in at a weaker state aka slightly depressed vs only sticking when the spring would be fully depressed and in a state of most resistance.

Knurling isn't the issue. I've documented this in-depth. https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....quot-vs-3-quot

[jetfire]

Based on what you discribe, it's clearly either an out extractor rod near the knurling and/or a problem with the spring. The fact that it only binds when FULLY depressed logically leaded me to believe the issue is less to do with the spring. My guess is that the knurling is getting stuck in the yoke.

The knurling doesn't make contact at any point during its travel. It is in the fact the springs.