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Good video! I’ve been using E6000 to bed the plate with good results. I’ve asked this question before with no responses, but has any tried bedding the plate with VibraTite? It dries to a hard rubbery finish…
Vibratite is the devil and he doesn’t even mention in the video that it is an aerobic sealant that requires curing time in air to work.
Sure, you can glue an optic to the gun and if the glue holds it will work, and you can weld an optic to the gun for a “sure thing” fit.
If it works for the guy great, but I wouldn’t recommend it for use by law enforcement or really anyone… We’ve had very good results with hundreds (probably thousands by now) of pistols with blue Loctite and correct procedures.
The Prodigy is the current exception we need to address. We’ve had several come loose and we’re looking into whether we need to use a bit of red Loctite on the plate-slide (it’s always the plate-slide that comes loose). That said, I still won’t glue my plate. I get why some do it, but it didn’t work for me, I’ve seen it destroy optics, and a plate should mount securely without that level of intervention.
This is my solution to the problem, and it's so easy to use it qualifies as a life hack when you are in this hobby and mess with optics a lot. Degrease, proper torque values, and this stuff that will go exactly where you want it in exactly the right amount. You can buy it at the auto parts store.
Last edited by stomridertx; 08-25-2023 at 10:31 AM.
I like using oil-tolerant blue thread locker, a torque wrench, and witness marks. I'll also use E6000 on optic cuts that aren't a particularly tight fit front-to-rear with the optic that I'm using, or on optic cuts that use mounting plates.
Not using a torque wrench like the guy in the video says he does is plain dumb. It's too easy to under-torque or over-torque those small screws without one.
Have you tried the plates from CHPWS? I wonder if they're better in this regard.Originally Posted by SoCalDep
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Here's another thought.
I would speculate that adding two more screws to the slide plate would add significantly to the overall design. There's plenty of real estate there and it would seem a pretty straightforward affair to drill two extra holes in the plate and slide and then thread the slide holes according.
We have a pretty good Glock slide cutter locally. He doesn't do any 1911 work that I know of but I'll see if this might interest him.
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DSC Gunworks recommends cleaning mounting surfaces and putting a thin film of red locktite on plate to slide surface followed by blue on all attaching screws.
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Glue is not a substitute for good design. Appropriate use of Loctite 248 is all a properly designed mount should require- any more effort than that points to a design that is flawed.
I’ve had great success using Loctite 248 blue in glue stick form. It doesn’t drip, doesn’t make a mess, etc., and has never come loose.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-50616...1zcF9hdGY&th=1
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