This self-vulcanizing silicone tape works amazingly well. Like no other grip sleeve or handgun-specific wrap I've tried comes even close.
It holds more rigid than any grip sleeve I've tried and haven't seen any movement. The main issue I see is the potential downside for a carry gun with possibly being too grippy such that it impedes draw, grabs clothing, etc.
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When I use hockey tape, I found it's best to wrap it in one big strip completely around the grip.Originally Posted by Clusterfrack
I like patches/spots of skateboard/grip tape, not large pieces. This does a few things for me:
1) I find it easier to get the tape to stick to specific areas, because I cut it and shape it specifically to that area.
2) If I want to increase/decrease traction: Add more tape to fill in more area or remove pieces to decrease it.
3) I can figure out my high wear spots, because the tape wears faster than anything else. If it wears sufficiently fast, I can opt to stipple those areas.
4) Skateboard tape is cheap and not permanent, allowing me to easily try different things vs. the permanency of stippling.
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With skateboard tape and movement/unsticking. With proper skateboard tape (not stair tape, which seems to come loose faster), I've never had issues, but the trick absolutely is - scrubbing the grip clean and degreasing the area, before you apply the tape. With plastic guns, I disassemble them and wash them in the sink with Dawn dish soap, then degrease with rubbing alcohol, and apply my tape. With the tape press firmly from the center out with the end of a cleaning rod to push out any air bubbles.
I do not like Goon or hockey tape on my guns. I have little girl hands and the goon/hockey/anything that requires multiple wraps bulks up my grip too much.
Actually, that's my top tip for improving grip traction - grip size reduction. When the gun feels more like a toy in my hand, I don't need much in the way of additional traction, because I can simply crush the thing into my hand.
A bit unconventional, and I haven't tried it (I bought a can but never actually put it on) but Marcus Wynne (RIP) recommended truck bed liner.
https://marcuswynne.wordpress.com/20...nter-tactical/b. With his experience and skill set he can get that Karl Sokol http://www.chestnutmountainsports.com customized G-19 (grip reduction, beavertail, trigger job, innards polished, Trijicon HD sights, and the black stuff on the handle – truck bed liner. Don’t laugh, youngsters…works great when wet, much cheaper than other fancy finishes and you can touch it up yourself if needed with a $5 can from the local auto store) out of the holster and on to work with a clean Mozambique (at 10 yards instead of 7) from deep concealment in an average 2.0 seconds, though he has been known to go faster when frightened.
Wish I remembered this when I had my G43x. Might've made shooting it easier.
"Well you know, it's a toolbox. You put the tools in for the job." Sam
Looks broadly useful. Ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-...dp/B00HWROO7E/
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Not great when wet. Have used the exact same stuff on motorcycle grips and it’s fine… until it rains.
Very good in dryer conditions and excellent for emergency leak repairs and similar applications, and of course YMMV on a pistol if your hands are dry. It’s especially important to keep oils off it if you want it to work well, they don’t break it down but they do make it slicker than ice. On a bike, you always get road oil mist when it rains, exacerbating the problem. On a pistol, in my experience blood makes it act like a bar of soap - you really need mechanical traction where blood is involved.
Last edited by Archer1440; 08-09-2023 at 01:21 PM.
I like stippling for EDC more than tape. For me tape typically does not stay put with factory adhesive with a crushing support hand grip and frequent training. There are exceptions to this for open carry (skateboard tape). Talon's pro tape was promising but it doesn't last long enough for my taste. I have not tried hockey tape put it looks interesting.
For EDC stippling I like starting off with aggressive stippling and dialing down the texture in specific spots on the frame as needed with 400 grit sandpaper. I find this strategy offers the best compromise. Places I have had good experience with for stippling are Boresight Solutions and Great Lakes Custom Works/ATEi (their chaos pattern is very good).
Based on shooting Glocks since 1991 and stippling/texturing grip panels since 06 ish, I would offer the following:
1. Rubber slip ons move over time. This can be minimized with the application of spray glue. This movement can happen within days or weeks.
2. Abrasive tapes like 3m anti slip stair tape smooth/wear out over time. Re application is part of the deal. Re application can be required after a few months to several months.
3. Stippling can wear down and require a touch up. This often happens over the course of a few years. I am a DIY stippler for my guns and I have done a number of them for friends and colleagues as well. As I do not have an FFL, I do no interstate work so know I am not trolling for business.
4. As the result of traveling the road of 1-3, I went to a tree bark stipple texture as it wears better and is more grippy than the multi pore orange peel style.
5. Ben at Boresight far exceeds the intersection of quality/function/value/appearances re his stippling work. As an aside, he has been most gracious to me re safety and technique issues, particularly when I was just starting out in 20008ish.
6. Anything short of stippling is simply a consumable and needs to be treated/maintained as such. Accept that reality and drive on.
I am not your attorney. I am not giving legal advice. Any and all opinions expressed are personal and my own and are not those of any employer-past, present or future.
Talon rubberized is the best I have used if you don't want to stipple. Preparation is key, cleaning the areas with rubbing alcohol prior to putting on the grips. Also, one thing I missed the first couple times I used it is they recommend heating the grips once on with a hair dryer to make the adhesive melt to the frame. I did this on a G26 and even with a lot of aggressive shooting and handling I haven't had any issues with peeling.
The Talon Rubber is still slick as soap to me, but my primary problem is sweaty hands. The Pro texture is a great balance of comfort and grip for many people, but it's ugly and wears away quickly. I love the grip from the granulate grips but you have to work around them for carry comfort.
I still prefer a good stipple but I have a close friend who does professional stipple work on the side. However, more and more local shops in my area are offering laser stippling and other services. If it wasn't for me friend, I'd go that route.
I hike up my undies in the summer as a skinguard and wear undershirts in all the cooler months, as the hassle is worth it to me with how much my hands sweat.
If it wasn't for how much I like the Gen 5 full size guns and the 48, I'd get an RTF2 19. I like leaving things stock when I can bear to. If the Gen 4/5 texture went 360 around the backstrap and higher on the sides, I'd probably actually be really happy with it as a carry compromise.
My 42 is left OEM slick for deep carry practicality and the fact that it has so little recoil and so little exposed grip area.
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