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Thread: Looks like TK Custom is now in the 856 spring & firing pin market

  1. #71
    Quote Originally Posted by Zeke38 View Post
    Just bought a 856 UL last week. Galloway spring kit arrived today. Stock trigger pull heavy but fairly smooth. Will replace the trigger spring and not touch the hammer spring. This little snubby shoots to POA with 120 Federal Punch and it does a very respectable job in the performing of said Punch.

    Pics in a few days. This thread has caused me to purchase the 856. Just a 100 rds through it so far, but they have performed flawlessly.
    The Galloway hammer gave me light strikes, on my bobbed 856. I too left the standard hammer spring, and the Galloway trigger spring. The biggest issue I’m having is that there’s almost a lighted take up from the lighter trigger spring, then the fullness of the hammer spring kicks in, making a smooth trigger pull moderately difficult.

    Definitely dry fire a bunch before pulling the side plate off, then cleaning and oiling everything. That did a ton to help the trigger pull.

  2. #72
    Site Supporter
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    Jul 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Polishing the firing pin channel and that area of the frame holding the complete firing pin body is a conservative approach that might resolve issues. I would Flitz the entire firing pin unit too. I suspect that some after market kits include a lighter pin return spring. Having tinkered with J frames for decades, I can say that screwing one up is easy. My guess is that the nifty little Taurus may share this trait. I advise against installing a lighter pin return spring. The reason is that this weaker spring may not overcome extra resistance imparted by debris often accumulating in pocket pistols. The Taurus pin unit has a "milled" flat area for a retainer. This retainer acts as a hammer stop. My opinion is that this flat area will trap crud. I'm writing from memory based on having viewed images of the T firing pin unit.

    Spring kit and extended firing pin ads often refer to these parts as "competition" parts. I infer that they are implying that these items are not recommended for duty.

  3. #73
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    North Cenral Idaho
    Finally got the 856 opened up and only found two spots where any of the internal parts were rubbing and causing friction. Stoned them lightly with an Arkansas fine stone and installed the Galloway rebound/trigger spring, and buttoned the little revolver back up. Trigger pull weight dropped by a 1/3 measured by observation when pressing the trigger. Much smoother trigger pull and now a firearm that is much easier to hit with. That hump that appeared in the middle of the trigger stroke is gone. Just a steady pressure all the way through it's arc.

    I'm a DAO shooter and I like this little 856.

  4. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by Zeke38 View Post
    Finally got the 856 opened up and only found two spots where any of the internal parts were rubbing and causing friction. Stoned them lightly with an Arkansas fine stone and installed the Galloway rebound/trigger spring, and buttoned the little revolver back up. Trigger pull weight dropped by a 1/3 measured by observation when pressing the trigger. Much smoother trigger pull and now a firearm that is much easier to hit with. That hump that appeared in the middle of the trigger stroke is gone. Just a steady pressure all the way through it's arc.

    I'm a DAO shooter and I like this little 856.
    With that action job, I do strongly recommend you stick to soft primers for anything serious. I'll get an occasional FTF in my modified TORO when I'm using "Primers other than Federal"

  5. #75
    Member Zeke38's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    North Cenral Idaho
    Thanks Jetfire. Hammer spring is stock. My carry SD load is 120Punch +P by Federal. They go bang every time and Best of all they also shoot to POA.

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