Because on day one he was skeptical of the reliability and performance of a Staccato generally, initially he had reliability problems and he has a reputation for treating his guns worse than an old lawn mower. It is frankly a small miracle his experience has turned out as good as it has.Originally Posted by HCM
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
He’s also a bit of an actor with a flair for the dramatic.
Fake drama gets clicks and views.
It shouldn't, but it surprises me the fact that all-metal guns, with long bearing surfaces, need lube has become such a discovery.
We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......
Reminded me of this article from yesteryear. Marketing? Maybe but interesting points contained within
https://www.cherrybalmz.com/post/sec...um-performance
Hmm... Yes, interesting points. Some of those points are good and well explained. Other points are enthusiastic statements without much supporting evidence or information.
I think it's worth the read and the writer obviously knows their way around not only "a 1911", but 1911s of different quality grades. That alone (an example is his discussion of the barrel link and lower barrel lug interaction with the slide stop) leads me to not simply dismiss what he says.
At the same time, using the writer's own "quality, quantity, and placement" concept... I have my own thoughts.
Applied directly to Staccato 9mms, since it's sorta the focus of this thread, I like thinner oils and thinly-applied thin greases. I've had good success with Slip 2000, and that's my main 2011 shootin' oil - though I do use FP-10 a lot when in a rush since it's sorta my "for everything" oil. My carry Staccatos (a C2 and old-school single-stack "C") and most of my carry 1911s get a thin layer of TW-25 grease on the rails and barrel lugs along with the Mil-Comm oil (same manufacturer) for other stuff. On my 5" .45s I'll use Lucas sometimes but I prefer the Mil-Comm to keep it consistent.
There's lots of voodoo and people who don't shoot a lot or don't research a lot buy into it. One thing most people don't know is that it's the barrel shoulder/front of ejection port that should be the locking surface of a 1911. The other lugs are there "just in case"... and it's a logical evolution for the modern barrel shoulder to be the only locking surface.
While (in agreement with the article) I've seen a lot of 1911 and A LOT of 2011 malfunctions due to insufficient lubrication, I've seen a good amount due to putting too much lube of too heavy a viscosity into a dirty gun and shooting it for not that many rounds.
Put "just enough" in the right place, and a clean dry gun will work until there isn't enough oil any more.
So to me "quality" is viscosity and time. The "right" viscosity and the "right" maintenance schedule covers this. I'm not a huge fan of RemOil, but it's a nice light oil that would be great with Staccato 9mms but needs to be cleaned and reapplied more often than some other products. That's where I like the Slip-2000 and the TW-25B.
Quantity is just enough to do the job. Any more is waisted, and frequently people who think they need more go overboard and end up causing problems. I'm not a fan of gobbing oil or grease all over. Grease that won't run into unintenteded places when gobbed on is likely to be thick enough that I don't want it on a Staccato. I want a light coating on all metal bearing surfaces (this was a phrase burned into me from the LAPD 1911 class) and I want to maintain that light coating over time with heat, humidity, lack thereof, etc... The maintenance schedule will vary depending on use, carry, area, etc.
As for placement, the article covers it very well, but I'm a "less is more fan" for a carry gun and especially a duty gun.
With a field stripped and cleaned pistol here is my lubrication method...
Put a light coating of TW-25 grease (or oil depending) on the frame rails... a bit on top but mostly the sides and all surfaces of the troughs. I will place some oil on the disconnector and hold the hammer back while I pull the trigger to allow oil to flow into the internal parts, but only if I just cleaned the pistol. Otherwise just a small coating on the protruding surface of the disconnector.
Then I'll turn the slide upside-down and put a light coating of grease or oil in the cutouts for the barrel's upper lugs... even though it's a "just in case", making sure I get a good dab around the slide just forward of the ejection port where the furthest rear barrel lug locks. That's the only lube I'll put on the slide.
The barrel gets grease or oil in between the upper lugs and oil on the lowe lugs/link, as well as a light coating of oil on the surface of the barrel that interacts with the slide or bushing.
The slide stop gets a light coat on the pin.
I generally do not lube the recoil system.
If the pistol does not function when lubricated as above, I think something else is wrong and should be addressed prior to carrying it.
Interestingly we have settled on the same two! Im am, however, admittedly an over achiever on application. I always have been and am often heard at the range when someone wants to shoot something of mine saying, "mind the drips".
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