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Thread: Permanently attached suppressor

  1. #1

    Permanently attached suppressor

    I stopped by the LGS, and my friend there mentioned he was doing a 10.5 inch barrel with a permanently attached suppressor that measures 16 inches in overall length. This means you can buy one stamp for the suppressor but you don't have a SBR. Since you can cross state lines with a suppressor without issue, and you have a 16 inch upper, it becomes a low hassle way of having a compact length long gun.

    Yankee Hill, for example makes one with a suppressor already permanently attached for about $1,000. Thoughts?

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    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  2. #2
    The handguard can get pretty damn hot, as with any system with the suppressor tucked down underneath. Gloves will only help so much in this scenario, though something like a handguard wrap might offer even more buffer room. A flow-thru suppressor might be better in that regard, IIRC they typically run cooler in general. However, if you simply have the handguard end right before pinned/welded can, then obviously it's no different from a standard suppressed rig.

    Cleaning the suppressor would likely be more difficult, as now you have to rig a way to soak the suppressor with a whole-ass rifle attached to it still. Running a boresnake through the barrel itself might also be a bit more annoying.

    I personally see it as a bit of a two trick pony (not having to do Form 20s, and being able to use them in states that don't allow SBRs but do allow cans). But if that's what you're after, then I think it can be done well.

  3. #3
    Ready! Fire! Aim! awp_101's Avatar
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    When the 80% suppressor thing was going on, I thought about using one of the designs where the front cap unscrewed and the baffles would come out that way for cleaning. Mount the suppressor housing on the barrel as a bloop tube then add the baffles and front cap once the Form 1 was approved. My PhD in procrastination saved me once again because most of the 80% places ended up getting shut down before I decided it was a "need" instead of a "want".
    Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain

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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    I stopped by the LGS, and my friend there mentioned he was doing a 10.5 inch barrel with a permanently attached suppressor that measures 16 inches in overall length. This means you can buy one stamp for the suppressor but you don't have a SBR. Since you can cross state lines with a suppressor without issue, and you have a 16 inch upper, it becomes a low hassle way of having a compact length long gun.

    Yankee Hill, for example makes one with a suppressor already permanently attached for about $1,000. Thoughts?

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    I believe Griffin sells a DT can with a pilot hole for pinning and welding.

    Personally I don't see the benefit. Cans are forever purchases and if like to be able to move between hosts or remove for maintenance.

    It's still a 16" rifle in the end, so it's no more compact than your common AR.

    Personally I'd be more inclined to do a pinned 13.7-14.5 with a QD K can. You're probably adding ~3" over a pinned suppressor.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Default.mp3 View Post
    Cleaning the suppressor would likely be more difficult, as now you have to rig a way to soak the suppressor with a whole-ass rifle attached to it still. Running a boresnake through the barrel itself might also be a bit more annoying.
    Although from the picture it looks like the muzzle end cap might come off to remove innerds for cleaning.

    My Rugged Razor is like that.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    Although from the picture it looks like the muzzle end cap might come off to remove innerds for cleaning.

    My Rugged Razor is like that.
    There is no endcap, it's a Turbo T2, so it's just scallops machined into the end.

    AFAIK, you can remove the endcap from the Razor, but you can't remove the baffles as they're still welded in, am I wrong on this? If they cannot be removed, it'll still be a chore to soak the can, IMO. If it baffles can be removed, then yeah, that would cleaning much easier.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Default.mp3 View Post
    There is no endcap, it's a Turbo T2, so it's just scallops machined into the end.

    AFAIK, you can remove the endcap from the Razor, but you can't remove the baffles as they're still welded in, am I wrong on this? If they cannot be removed, it'll still be a chore to soak the can, IMO. If it baffles can be removed, then yeah, that would cleaning much easier.
    You are probably right!

    I’ve swapped endcaps before but I don’t clean my rifle suppressors.

    “Self cleaning” and all that jazz, lol.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    You are probably right!

    I’ve swapped endcaps before but I don’t clean my rifle suppressors.

    “Self cleaning” and all that jazz, lol.
    Shoot a centerfire rifle can enough, and I think it's worth cleaning, just for the weight; I've gotten two or three ounces of carbon out before with just repeat CLR soaks and some rubber mallet bashes for my SureFire SOCOMs on shorter barrels (16" .308 Win and 11.5" .223 Rem). But yeah, if you didn't care about the weight, it's mostly a non-issue under normal firing schedules AFAIK.

  9. #9
    Thanks for all the good comments. My use would be a "Sprinter" camping long gun, shot infrequently, but possibly from inside the Sprinter, hence the interest in a suppressor and compact overall length.
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    Thanks for all the good comments. My use would be a "Sprinter" camping long gun, shot infrequently, but possibly from inside the Sprinter, hence the interest in a suppressor and compact overall length.
    As an aside, suppressed 223 is still pretty dang loud (140dB outdoors) so it might be pretty unpleasant still.

    Might be a good use for a 300 blackout with subs and supers if needed.

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