I was doing some research to better understand 1911s since mine is a professional model from wilson it field strip differently than a bushing set up (mine is a 4inch bull barrel).
Found this interesting video from alchemy custom firearms
https://youtu.be/Fe57wn2otU4
Thoughts?
I have massive respect for Rob. He's forgotten more about 1911s than I will ever know.
The two reasons he gives for the slide stop first method are "scratching the recoil spring plug" and "you'll shoot the plug across the room" have not to date convinced me to use that method. I tried it a couple times, and I don't have the hand strength to reliably maintain an armorer's grip while popping the slide stop into place. As well, maintaining spring pressure while removing the slide is difficult for me. Rob's hand strength and size makes it easier for him than me, I'm sure.
I have a low end Springfield. I find it much easier to simply depress the bushing with my thumb while twisting with my polymer bushing wrench. I hold the empty gun vertically with the safety engaged. I don't find it hard to keep the plug depressed enough to allow the bushing to rotate. Reinstall is the reverse, I hold the plug down and slide the bushing around until it clicks.
It may be that the slide stop first method is preferable on a tightly fit bushing like an ACW, but I dunno.
Rob knows more than I do, but I pull the bushing first. None of my current 1911s are tight enough that accuracy will suffer.
"Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA
Beware of my temper, and the dog that I've found...
The real reason why you don't want to twist the bushing off first is here at 2:41 in the video...the other crap he was saying was because he's aware a lot of his customer pool are Karens who get the gun, rack the slide, and then pepper at least 4 internet forums with "OH MY GOD THE PICK UP RAIL HAS A SCRATCH ON IT! THIS THING IS DEFECTIVE! I'M GONNA SELL IT AND GET A WILSON COMBAT!" so he's gotta pander to them first. If you read the 1911 forums you'll think most of his buyers just don't actually shoot the damn things...Originally Posted by RJ
%95 of guns, it won't matter; they're not fit tight enough and the barrel/bushing interface isn't good enough for it to matter. I do have a couple of hard fit 1911s that I need to take down slide stop first, and pop it out of battery before rotating the bushing. Reassembly is pretty easy; I reassemble as normal except when it comes time to turn the bushing, I pop the gun out of battery (while it's under spring tension) and rotate it into place with the slide a little open.
Thanks for the additional data. The part in bold above is true for my Garrison, for sure.
I use the method in the video because I don't need a wrench to field strip my 1911.
I normally disassemble my guns the way Rob shows in the video, but not always and I don't get uptight about it.
Reassembly using Rob's method is the tricky part because of the recoil spring. It's just a pain so I reassemble the other way.
Rob's method isn't recquired for any off the shelf 1911, nor most of your boutique level pistols. Unless it's a tight fit bespoke custom, or a match tuned gun, it just isn't neccessary.
Personally, I don't do 1911s without bushings and I don't get into bull barrel/guide rod voodoo, so the old school way of disassembly works for me.
We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......
I'm not saying Rob's technique is invalid, but I've never had a 1911 that required the use of a bushing wrench. I had a Wilson polymer one, but it sat nestled in my bag for years, until my range bag was stolen. I've not felt a compelling need to replace it.
The hardest point of 1911 assembly for me is replacing the slide stop without incurring the dreaded idiot mark.
If you're dealing daily with multiple 1911s, I can somewhat see Rob's method. For me, working with a sample size of three, and only one at a time, I prefer the military bushing method.
Best, Jon
Sponsored by Check-Mate Industries and BH Spring Solutions
Certified Glock Armorer
When I wrote the manual for my department’s 1911 program I used the military disassembly instructions. Initially in the class I showed both the “bushing first” and the “slide stop first” methods, discussing when each was appropriate.
At that time we had guys with $800 Springfields and $4000 Nighthawks in the class.
Now it’s around 80% to 95% Staccatos, so it’s largely academic and when I taught the classroom portion I mentioned hard fit barrels and preferring a different disassembly method for them.
Personally I disassemble anything with a GI guide rod using the “slide-stop first” method as shown in the video. That way it works with my Springfield Pro, most of my other pistols, and anyone else’s expensive and very hand fit pistol. It won’t work with a one-piece full-length guide rod with a bushing barrel, so there’s nothing universal. Of course, that’s one reason I’m not a fan of full-length guide rods, but I have them on a couple of pistols to make sure I can’t speak in absolutes.
Ultimately, the video isn’t wrong, and if I can take a pistol apart without imparting unnecessary wear/markings I see no reason not to do that unless one truly doesn’t care about looks... We have a Colt 1911A1 at work and it will die there. If it ever leaves our armory it will only be to be destroyed. I’ve taken it almost completely apart in multiple classes using only its own parts to show students the genius of John Browning. I’ve used the slide to beat the safety to drive out the mainspring housing pin. I recently learned the firing pin would be an easier “punch” and will probably try it. Will it work? Yep. Would I do it on one of my guns if I didn’t have to? Nope.
So with that all said, there’s no “right way”... There’s a bunch of ways and some are better than others depending on the gun.
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