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Thread: Modifying Gen 3/Gen 4 Glock Rail Slot to 1913 Width?

  1. #1

    Modifying Gen 3/Gen 4 Glock Rail Slot to 1913 Width?

    Anybody try it? I did a little Googling and did not find anything. I understand that there is more to the rail spec than the slot dimension, but I believe that a widened slot would probably be adequate to use a Surefire P or Streamlight 1913 key.

    Asking because at work we have a lot of Gen 3 and Gen 4 Glock 17T sims guns but have moved to Gen 5 duty guns. There is no plan to replace the sims guns for the foreseeable future and we are left contemplating buying dedicated WMLs, which is expensive given how often they are (not) used or telling people they'll have to deal with it and not have a light, which obviously detracts from training realism.

    My guess is that working deliberately with a file would get you there, but I figured I would inquire first. I'm not totally above risking a frame on one of these sims guns for an answer.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by DaBigBR View Post
    Anybody try it? I did a little Googling and did not find anything. I understand that there is more to the rail spec than the slot dimension, but I believe that a widened slot would probably be adequate to use a Surefire P or Streamlight 1913 key.

    Asking because at work we have a lot of Gen 3 and Gen 4 Glock 17T sims guns but have moved to Gen 5 duty guns. There is no plan to replace the sims guns for the foreseeable future and we are left contemplating buying dedicated WMLs, which is expensive given how often they are (not) used or telling people they'll have to deal with it and not have a light, which obviously detracts from training realism.

    My guess is that working deliberately with a file would get you there, but I figured I would inquire first. I'm not totally above risking a frame on one of these sims guns for an answer.

    Searched all over, as there definitely used to be a shop that would cut Gen 3/4 to gen 5 specs. So, I know it can be done. There’s disagreements on if the notch is longer in the front and rear, or just rear.

    We have the same issue, of Gen 3/4 sims and Gen 5 duty guns. My personal fix is keeping a spare light with the universal key, but I realize getting most cops to go buy a second light isn’t likely. The other option, is to use the universal key instead of the picatinny key, and use something to keep it tight on the Gen 5. I slap a piece of adhesive backed soft side Velcro between the switches on wobbly lights, so that it compresses onto the trigger guard and keeps it tight.

    Sorry, wish I could be more help.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by BK14 View Post
    Searched all over, as there definitely used to be a shop that would cut Gen 3/4 to gen 5 specs. So, I know it can be done. There’s disagreements on if the notch is longer in the front and rear, or just rear.

    We have the same issue, of Gen 3/4 sims and Gen 5 duty guns. My personal fix is keeping a spare light with the universal key, but I realize getting most cops to go buy a second light isn’t likely. The other option, is to use the universal key instead of the picatinny key, and use something to keep it tight on the Gen 5. I slap a piece of adhesive backed soft side Velcro between the switches on wobbly lights, so that it compresses onto the trigger guard and keeps it tight.

    Sorry, wish I could be more help.
    I just took some measurements on some gen 4 / 5 19 rails. If I were going to mill the gen 4 19 I would take .01" off the front and .035" off the rear of the slot.

    Cant help on the 17 though as I don't have one.

  4. #4
    An update on this...

    I talked to a buddy who is a pretty decent amateur machinist. He ended up building a jig that you insert a Gen 3 or 4 frame into and then cut a 1913 slot with a cheap Harbor Freight mini router.

    We did all of the PD's 17T NLTA guns and all of my Gen 3 and 4 Glocks. They generally came out really well. Some required a minor hand touch-up to remove excess material. We erred on the side of tight fitting slots, so some guns seem to require pulling the tabs up on an X300 A to get it to lock. All work great with the X300B and TLR-1 P/1913 keys.

    Overall probably not an endeavor worth it for many people, but making our NLTA guns work with the weapon lights on people's carry guns was worth it.

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