Ok I’m new to using optics need a little help.

[Edcglock]

Ok I’m really new to using optics but I just got my first optic a HOLOSUN HE508T-GR X2. For my Glock 19 G5, I was trying to align my green dot/reticle with my iron sight I have angry bears suppressor Heights on mines. But every time I keep playing around with the windage and elevation I don’t see anything moving just looks like the green dot/reticle is in the same spot. Mind you I’m doing this all in my home in my room. Or will I see a difference if I take it out to the range or outdoor range? Need someone to school me a bit on it.

[stomridertx]

Ok I’m really new to using optics but I just got my first optic a HOLOSUN HE508T-GR X2. For my Glock 19 G5, I was trying to align my green dot/reticle with my iron sight I have angry bears suppressor Heights on mines. But every time I keep playing around with the windage and elevation I don’t see anything moving just looks like the green dot/reticle is in the same spot. Mind you I’m doing this all in my home in my room. Or will I see a difference if I take it out to the range or outdoor range? Need someone to school me a bit on it.

When looking for the dot in relation to the front sight, are you actually acquiring the iron sight picture correctly? You have to present the gun, and line up the front sight in the rear notch correctly just like you are shooting with the iron sights. Then adjust the dot where it sits on top of the front sight in this view. You won't get this relationship between the front sight and dot outside of a correct shooting sight picture that is on a target. Once you get this, it's just a starting point. The dot will need to be zeroed independently on your next range trip at either 10 or 25 yards, because it is a more precise instrument and is capable of more accuracy than your iron sights. Contrary to popular belief, the irons need zeroing as well.

[Darth_Uno]

When looking for the dot in relation to the front sight, are you actually acquiring the iron sight picture correctly? You have to present the gun, and line up the front sight in the rear notch correctly just like you are shooting with the iron sights. Then adjust the dot where it sits on top of the front sight in this view. You won't get this relationship between the front sight and dot outside of a correct shooting sight picture that is on a target. Once you get this, it's just a starting point. The dot will need to be zeroed independently on your next range trip at either 10 or 25 yards, because it is a more precise instrument and is capable of more accuracy than your iron sights. Contrary to popular belief, the irons need zeroing as well.

To piggyback on this, a good starting point is to place your dot right over the front sight. The irons are probably "close enough", which should put your dot pretty close too. If you then adjust the dot in any direction and then get a proper iron sight picture, you should see that the dot has moved in relation to the front sight.
How much you want to fiddle with adjusting your iron sights after that depends on how important you think they are and how much it bothers you if the dot, when accurately sighted in, will or won't sit over the front sight.

And if you can't tell that the dot's moving when you make adjustments, make sure you hold the slide far enough away from yourself and don't have it right by your eyeball like a scope.

[HCM]

Ok I’m really new to using optics but I just got my first optic a HOLOSUN HE508T-GR X2. For my Glock 19 G5, I was trying to align my green dot/reticle with my iron sight I have angry bears suppressor Heights on mines. But every time I keep playing around with the windage and elevation I don’t see anything moving just looks like the green dot/reticle is in the same spot. Mind you I’m doing this all in my home in my room. Or will I see a difference if I take it out to the range or outdoor range? Need someone to school me a bit on it.

1) Reflex/red dot optics are a target focused sighting system. You focus on the target, then place place the dot / reticle on your chosen aiming point. it should "float" in your vision and be superimposed on the target as you remain focused on the target. This works best with BOTH EYES OPEN. One of the advantages of a reflex/red dot sight is minimal parallax - meaning that once zeroed, the bullets will go where ever the dot/reticle is regardless of where it is in the optic window. This is a feature, not a bug as it lets you shoot sooner while maintaining accuracy. If you focus on the dot/reticle like it's a front sight you will wind up "chasing the dot" and your rounds will go all over.

2) Are your iron sights zeroed ? if yes, Co-witnessing a dot to irons is a shortcut to get you "on paper" but not a substitute for actually zeroing the dot.

3) To co-witness, ignore the dot, obtain a proper sight picture with the irons (front centered in rear notch, light on both sides of the front, top of front site level with top of rear sight) and then note where the dot is in relation to your proper sight picture. This is best done on a plain background WITHOUT a target - just the sight picture of the irons and the dot.

4) To adjust the dot to the tip of the front sight:
- Remember - the adjustments on the optic are for adjustments based on bullet impacts on a target such as when zeroing. When adjusting for CO-WITNESS rather than Zero on a target you you need to move the optic adjustment THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.

- Example: My dot is low and to the left of my iron sight picture, so I want to move the dot up and to the right. To do this, (FOR CO_WITNESS ONLY) I would need to make the OPPOSITE adjustments on the optic i.e. turn the adjustments in the directions marked for down and left.

- once the dot is on the tip of the front sight with a proper iron sight picture you are ready to zero via live fire.

5) When you zero live fire you will move the adjustments on the optic per the marked directions to move your bullet impacts on to your desired point of aim. i.e. down to move impacts down on the target.

Other tips:

Once you are zeroed, some occluded shooting (or dryfire) is helpful in keeping both eyes open and maintaining target focus. Put some masking tape on the front lens of your optic and aim at a target with both eyes open. One eye should see the dot, the other will see the target and your mind will merge the images.

IME it is easier to learn to acquire and use the dot on a gun WITHOUT back up irons. Back up irons are prudent for duty / carry but a hinderance when new to the dot, especially if you are experienced shooting pistols with irons. It's harder to transition from irons than to start from scratch on an optic.

You should be picking out a small spot on the target and driving the gun / dot there like pointing your finger. This takes practice. keeping your head still and brining the gun/optic into your eyeline makes this easier. It's harder of both your head and the gun are moving at the same time.

You should be ignoring the irons unless your optic fails or you cannot find the dot in an emergency.

Make sure your back up irons are not taking up too much of the optic window. They should cover 1/4 to 1/3 of the optic window max. If they cover half or more of the window it impedes your ability to use the optic. They should be a like a doughnut spare tire - only for failures of your primary aiming system.

Using Irons to "find the dot" is bad habit and slower than just using irons. Irons are a three focal point system - Target, front sight, rear sight. They require your eye to focus on three things, however, your eye can only focus on one and instead has to shift focus between the three. Pistol optics are a single focal point system - target. Doing one thing is quicker than doing three things. The problem with" using the irons to find the dot" is it trades a three focal point system for a four focal point system i.e. doing one thing is quicker than doing four things.