And you're going to have them make it with a bobbed hammer, right??Originally Posted by jetfire
And you're going to have them make it with a bobbed hammer, right??
Regional Government Sales Manager for Aimpoint, Inc. USA
Co-owner Hardwired Tactical Shooting (HiTS)
Man, I wish. I'm trying to get Brazil to make a run of bobbed hammers that they'll sell as aftermarket so people can swap them in
That'll work!
Regional Government Sales Manager for Aimpoint, Inc. USA
Co-owner Hardwired Tactical Shooting (HiTS)
Do it.
”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB
That would be great!
Is there anything that would prevent me bobbing a regular hammer (surface hardening etc.)?
No, just don't alter the strike face of the hammer. You can chop spurs off all day long.
<insert "shut up and take my money" meme here.>
Mazel tov!
*RS Regulate Affiliate*
Piggy-backing off this thread.
I picked up a UL 856 with the bobbed hammer today. I’m a revolver noob, so bear with me.
I shot 50 rounds of federal 130 grain, and 12 of GD 135 +P. The gun shoots FJ the sights at around 10 yards with both rounds which is great. I short-stroked the trigger on my first cylinder, but after that everything functioned great, whether slow fire, staging the trigger for each shot, or seeing what my splits could be.
Some observations:
Pretty rough finished. The star on the back of the cylinder is pretty gritty, lots of machine marks and looks like it scratched up the “breach face” (for lack of knowledge on what it’s actually called).
Maybe normal, but there’s a decent swell on fired cases, about 1/4 to 1/3” up from the rim. Cases still ejected fine though, so might be normal.
Big questions. The cylinder stop doesn’t fully engage with one or two of the cylinders when pulling the trigger slowly and stopping just before the hammer drops. When the hammer drops the cylinder stop drops in place, but generally not before. With that, when pulling the trigger quickly to a staged position instead of rolling all the way through, I can feel the stop generally drop in place.
Should any of this be something to worry about? Functionally it was great for the small round count I shot, and I haven’t cleaned it or oiled it yet, so that may help.
I shot my 3" 856 as a bug gun in a local match last weekend. It has the Galloway kit, and ran without an incident, as I knew it would.
Using wadcutters in a speed reload was a practice in frustration, because without chamfered cylinder mouths, getting a precise speed feed was a no go.
Truncated cone bullets fell right in, but the wads, not so much.
So I'm thinking I may spend the money and have it chamfered, and perhaps cut to accept 9mm moons as well.....a two caliber gun.
Other than the wadcutter issue, this revolver has over 1200 rounds thru, as zero issues:
still tight, no slop.
"... And miles to go before I sleep".
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