Ruger new vaquero .357 4 5/8 inch.

[Glockman9mm]

Picked up a 2018 new vaquero in a trade this week. Really liking it so far. I had the bulkier original vaquero from 2000 that I sold for more than I paid. Never could shoot that one very well. It was the polished stainless version and all the glare from that did not help. But never found a load that shot to point of aim either. This new version just feels better all around and a much more useful dark sight picture for my eyes. Still had my old cross draw holster that fits perfectly. These targets are at 10 yards with .38 special blazer brass 130 grain fmj. The 12 shot target was one handed firing, the other was 2 handed, both standing unsupported. First time shooting a single action revolver in 10 years. Been spending all my limited shooting time on Glocks. Still can’t shoot those for crap one handed.



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[Glockman9mm]

Anyone have a favorite recommended .38 special factory load for these?

[Zeke38]

Glockman: 158 grain bullets and 4.5-5.0 grains of Unique should work quite well you you in that nice thumbuster.

[Stephanie B]

Nice. I had an older Vaquero in .45 Colt; sold it and got a Cimmaron .45 for pretty much the same reasons.

[JHC]

I only just learned Ruger offers a .357 Vaquero with a 9mm cylinder. That got me thinking.

[Totem Polar]

I only just learned Ruger offers a .357 Vaquero with a 9mm cylinder. That got me thinking.

I all but begged the Ruger rep to put out a 9mm version of the 3.75” birdshead .45 acp vaqueros on a single six frame—which would take it, since they can do 7 rounds of .327 Fed Mag on the same frame. He agreed that the points I made were all good ones, but so far no joy.




If such a beast were to materialize, it might fit K frame leather and look a lot like the top one in this pic, here. Just saying…

[willie]

Duplicating standard pressure 38 Spl ammo is easily done using Alliant Bullseye, Red Dot, or Unique. H Titegroup and Win 231 also will serve well. I suggest using Missouri Cast Bullets products which have an excellent reputation. Select "Cowboy" bullets which have the correct hardness for your application. Their advantage is that they are not too hard and will work superbly--no leading. This company offers their bullets in a coated version which is less messy. The powder company's website will present charge weight information.

[fatdog]

That is a nice gun.

MO bullet company makes good stuff. For the Italian guns by Pietta or Uberti I found the 125gr bullets to work best for me in those, but the 158gr versions to print better groups in a Ruger. I strongly came to prefer the .357 cases for those guns loaded to .38 special pressures with Hogdon Trial Boss which really is a fluffy version of Titegroup or Bullseye that just fills the case better, delivers more consistency in those guns. At the end of my CAS days I was only shooting BP cartridges but the bullet weights held true to that, I am guessing it is a combination of barrel twist and forcing cone dimensions but whatever. the 158gr worked better in Rugers for me.

A big part of learning to shoot SAA style guns well is coming to understand that unlike our paradigm for other revolvers or autos is you WANT the gun to roll in your hand during firing. I had all the instincts when I started CAS that I wanted this firm grip on the gun that required checkered grips and preventing the gun from moving when the round touched off. While that is correct for modern DA revolvers and certainly all semi-auto pistols it is 100% wrong for these guns.

You do WANT the gun to roll up in your hand between shots. It puts your thumb in position to cock the hammer again and by tightening your grip after the gun has discharged you force it back down into firing position as part of that motion. It comes back to the fully cocked firing positon faster if you will let it roll up in recoil instead of trying to fight the squirm like we need to do for modern guns.

[fatdog]

To clarify, when I say let it roll, that is during the recoil cycle as the gun lifts, it is of course important to grip tightly until the bullet has exited the barrel. But when the gun starts to rise you let it roll in the hand.

[Glockman9mm]

That is a nice gun.

MO bullet company makes good stuff. For the Italian guns by Pietta or Uberti I found the 125gr bullets to work best for me in those, but the 158gr versions to print better groups in a Ruger. I strongly came to prefer the .357 cases for those guns loaded to .38 special pressures with Hogdon Trial Boss which really is a fluffy version of Titegroup or Bullseye that just fills the case better, delivers more consistency in those guns. At the end of my CAS days I was only shooting BP cartridges but the bullet weights held true to that, I am guessing it is a combination of barrel twist and forcing cone dimensions but whatever. the 158gr worked better in Rugers for me.

A big part of learning to shoot SAA style guns well is coming to understand that unlike our paradigm for other revolvers or autos is you WANT the gun to roll in your hand during firing. I had all the instincts when I started CAS that I wanted this firm grip on the gun that required checkered grips and preventing the gun from moving when the round touched off. While that is correct for modern DA revolvers and certainly all semi-auto pistols it is 100% wrong for these guns.

You do WANT the gun to roll up in your hand between shots. It puts your thumb in position to cock the hammer again and by tightening your grip after the gun has discharged you force it back down into firing position as part of that motion. It comes back to the fully cocked firing positon faster if you will let it roll up in recoil instead of trying to fight the squirm like we need to do for modern guns.

I think I’m doing something wrong when I shoot it 2 handed as it goes a bit left. Dead center one handed.

Were you running the original or new model vaquero’s? This new one seems to shoot a lot tighter and has a very tight barrel/cylinder gap. And shoots close to point of aim with all 3 factory loads I’ve tried so far.