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Thread: Smith 19-4 With Rust Issues

  1. #1
    Member iWander's Avatar
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    Feb 2014
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    Smith 19-4 With Rust Issues

    My father-in-law was not a rich man but he always wanted a Smith revolver. About 15 years ago I gifted him this 19 - 4 that was a trade in and former duty weapon from one of our local Police departments. The bluing was thin at the edge of the barrel and many high points when I gave it to him as you can see, but there was no rust on the gun.

    He died suddenly over the weekend and I have the revolver back in my possession. The rust and pitting are pretty significant in several spots and I would like to restore it or at least prevent any further damage.

    Is spot bluing something worth pursuing? Am I better off just getting the entire gun refinished? I wouldn't even know who to use anymore. My son would like the revolver as a momento of his grandpa. I want to give it to him for Christmas in great condition as a way to honor both of them.

  2. #2
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    If it were mine I would consider having it hard chrome plated.

    This is one company that I have used several times:

    https://apwcogan.com/refinishing/

  3. #3
    While it would be physically possible to take the barrel off (cylinder too, looks like) and have it refinished, saving on cost and gun shipping charges, that would probably leave you with a two-tone gun.

    Just have it refinished; I have seen many pictures of rusty guns refinished with hardly a sign of the damage.
    I don't know just who, my gunsmith and finisher are retired.
    Code Name: JET STREAM

  4. #4
    Site Supporter 41magfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverJIM View Post
    If it were mine I would consider having it hard chrome plated.

    This is one company that I have used several times:

    https://apwcogan.com/refinishing/
    ^^^ This ^^^

    If you want a "white" finish, that is. I've probably had half a dozen handguns hard-chromed at APW over the last 20+ yrs and have no qualms with their work. If you go that route, make sure there's nothing mechnically wrong with the gun before you have it plated as it will only complicate repairs should you find something after the fact. Same goes for any customization like action work, etc.

    DLC is a "black" finish option but it might cost twice as much as HC.

    In the short term, you might want to get after that rust with some 0000 steel wool and WD-40 and then keep it protected with something until you decide what to do.




    ETA: Since that model has an intergal front sight, consider having them add a colored insert. I say that because with HC you'll end up with a front sight that washes out in bright sunlight, making it difficult to see. Painting the front sight is an obvious option as well should you not care for colored inserts.
    Last edited by 41magfan; 04-04-2023 at 08:44 AM.
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  5. #5
    Member TGS's Avatar
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    In the grand scheme of things, that's not bad at all, @iWander.

    Get it professionally reblued if you want it to keep the general same appearance. Cold blue is shit. DLC or nickel-teflon if you want the best finish possible to preserve the gun.

    Here's my risen from the dead project from a few years ago, which had significantly more damage: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....agnum-2-5-quot
    "Are you ready? Okay. Let's roll."- Last words of Todd Beamer

  6. #6
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Just to start out, heavily apply some Hoppes No 9 solvent or good gun oil on the rust areas, after it sets overnight lightly clean it with 0000 steel wool or bronze wool. See what the remaining blue looks like and if its pitted any. Keep the solvent or oil on it and go over it a couple times or more.

    It may not be too bad, or it may need some help. If its just blue loss and no pitting, either factory refinish from Smith may work, or a cheaper solution is get the good cold blue from Brownells, I believe the oxpho blue being the one, but its been several years since I last bought any. Warming the metal before each coat seems to help, I run hot tap water on it as hot as I can get it, dry, then apply. It often takes many coats to get a good even finish and good dark look.

    I for one would rather have blue loss and rusted look than a hard chromed or non-blue finish. YMMV of course.

    Good quality cold blue can be a useful improvement on used guns. Im not sure why more people dont consider it. Ive used the Birchwood Casey Super Blue with fairly good results besides the Brownells cold blue. If well degreased before and between each coat then lightly polished with 0000 steel wool between coats in hot tap water, then oiled when done, it can make a fairly decent finish.

    When using cold blue, I dump some in the cap to use, and absolutely never put it back in the bottle when done, nor re-use a q-tip a second time dipping in the solution after touching the metal, it does something to the solution that messes it up. I think many people dont read the directions nor do multiple coats to get a decent finish. Its often discredited, but Ive had fairly decent results with it when used properly. John Linebaugh used it on some small touch up work.
    Last edited by Malamute; 04-04-2023 at 09:07 AM.
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  7. #7
    Yeah, my 1911 specialist used Oxpho Blue to blacken sight cuts and other out of the way places that just needed to be dark, not necessarily a perfect match.

    On the other hand, my repair gunsmith uses it for whole guns. He used it on some of my smoke and water damaged guns after the Incident and they can't be told from the hot blue and rust blue. He said it worked well enough that it was not worth the time to run hot blue, even though he has the tanks, he sends that out when wanted.
    He does not use the method Brownells recommends for large areas, though; made up his own process.
    Code Name: JET STREAM

  8. #8
    Being that you want to pass this revolver on to your son, I vote for refinishing. Ultimately it's your call on what type of refinish. You'll just have to cruise the internet for businesses that do that kind of work and see what finishes they offer, then make up your mind. I know I am stating the obvious here. Being you want to keep it in the family for possibly generations, I would get a quality refinish that is durable as well as pleasing in appearance.

  9. #9
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    I'm with Malmute. I bought an used 19 and basically did the same routine and it look pretty good. No problem selling it for a good price years later.
    Cloud Yeller of the Boomer Age

  10. #10

    Conserve it

    I suggest conserving it. Use the Mark Novak method of boiling it to turn the active rust to passive.


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