Hi all,
interested in the forums thoughts on using a flash hider vs a muzzle brake or compensator on something like an AR which will be suppressed sometimes.
I have heard that using a flash hider can increase baffle erosion. While on the other hand shooting some guns (cough rattler cough) suppressed with a comp really sucks for the shooter.
What do you do for muzzle devices and why?
Following. I much prefer FH shooting, but if doing so beats up my expensive NFA toy…
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
I’ve never seen anything objective but it is well accepted that a muzzle brake will serve as a sacrificial baffle. Personally, I don’t worry about it too much. I was a hardcore break user and then transitioned to flash hiders for more of a general purpose focus. If I had a 10.5 that was going to stay suppressed and get lots of rounds, I’d probably put a break on it. But even at that length, I’m not that worried since I shoot unsuppressed somewhat often and usually pick my 11.5 or 12.5 to shoot more.
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Not an expert, Etc but last time I read about this on a forum put on by one of the suppressor manufacturers:
For suppressors that are designed to be used with a muzzle brake / flash hider, the brake/hider does act as a sacrificial lamb to protect the baffles. But if it's a direct thread can, there is a portion of the can itself that does the same thing. So in essence no difference.
On my high-round-count guns, I use a SF brake as a sacrificial "pre baffle" for my SF Mini. There's really no reason not to, unless you will shoot unsuppressed and don't want the blast directed sideways.
My long-range bolt and gas guns have brakes for that reason, and because brakes can be helpful for accuracy.
My home-defense carbine has a flash-hider under the can.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Here’s my theory. Put on a new muzzle brake and shoot it with no silencer. You’ll notice a lot of baffle wear on the muzzle brake for the first few hundred rounds. The 90 degree angle between the bore and baffle will round off to more like a 45 degree, and then self-limit. That means metal particles are coming off the muzzle brake and shooting out of the bore and ports of the muzzle brake with the propellant gas. If those particles are flying out into your silencer, I have to think they’re abrading the baffles more than what you’ll get with just propellant gas. So what I do is run a nee muzzle brake for awhile to get to the equilibrium point before putting the can on ot.
Eesh typos… meant to say “So what I do is run a new muzzle brake for awhile to get to the equilibrium point before putting the can on it.”
I also forgot to add that I pretty much gave up on the idea of running suppressed and unsuppressed on the same upper. I can’t imagine a situation where I’d be switching between the two. It’s better to have a suppressed-only upper tuned and zeroed for that, and an unsuppressed upper tuned and zeroed for that.
Most suppressor manufactures have very good warranties and will probably cover any baffle wear you have. I have set up my rifles the way I would want to shoot them without a can on them.
We could isolate Russia totally from the world and maybe they could apply for membership after 2000 years.
My next can is an integrally suppressed AR upper. For work (read political) reasons....
YHM, if LaRue doesn't bring back the SUURG...Now THAT was a brake that saved the baffels...
For a .223 situation I like the one stamp gun for my current life..
pat
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