TISAS 1911s

[SecondsCount]

I threw a full Wilson 316G respring kit and their plunger kit into my JSOC, and I have an issue I’ve never experienced before in my years of owning working man grade 1911s - the trigger may be too light. I did absolutely nothing else to it, and the trigger pull dropped from a measured 4.75 to 5 down to a very consistent 3 pounds.

This just seems too light to me. Opinions?

It sounds like the mainspring is lighter in the Wilson kit. You could swap the original one in to see if that gets it back to where you want.

[Jim Watson]

That much change says "sear spring" to me. The Wilson sear spring may be less stiff or less curved than stock.

[Robinson]

I threw a full Wilson 316G respring kit and their plunger kit into my JSOC, and I have an issue I’ve never experienced before in my years of owning working man grade 1911s - the trigger may be too light. I did absolutely nothing else to it, and the trigger pull dropped from a measured 4.75 to 5 down to a very consistent 3 pounds.

This just seems too light to me. Opinions?

My Wilsons, including my carry gun, all have triggers right around 3.75# and I don't think I would want them to be any lighter than that. Actually a 4# trigger is pretty reasonable. A 3# trigger would be lighter than what I am used to.

[Stephanie B]

That much change says "sear spring" to me. The Wilson sear spring may be less stiff or less curved than stock.

A little bit of "bendology" might fix that.

[HeavyDuty]

A little bit of "bendology" might fix that.

That’s what I’m thinking. I’ll do some YT creeping.

[Stephanie B]

That’s what I’m thinking. I’ll do some YT creeping.

When I put in the SFS kit, the trigger pull was far too light for my taste. So I bent the leaf a little. Did that also for the leaf that pushes on the grip safety to keep it from rattling.

The part's cheap enough if you get overly-enthusiastic and break it.

[Trooper224]

That’s what I’m thinking. I’ll do some YT creeping.

When I put Cylinder & Slide sear springs in my two pistols, it drooped the triggers to well below three pounds. Adjustment (bendage) of the left and center legs of the springs cured that. These are the legs that power the sear (left) and disconnector (center). It doesn't take much.

Most aftermarket sear springs are advertised as lowering the pull weight. In the case of the C&S it's a full 1.5 pounds, so this wasn't a surprise.

[Trooper224]

Today, I fired a couple of new ammo types through my Tank Commander.

The first were some generic remington HPs. I got these from ammo I've been recycling. I'd obtained about six hundred rounds of "remanufactured" ammo from my boss at work. They were "my buddy who reloads" type of stuff he'd bought from one of our coworkers who fancies himself a gun guru, but is in fact a dipshit. After a couple of kabooms, one of which neccesitated me replacing the extractor in the bosses Glock, he gave me the remainder.

I've been pulling them and recycling everything but the powder. There were around two hundred of these HPs that vaguely resemble the Hornady Critical Defense/Duty bullets sans polymer plug. They all fed fine without issue. I was about tweny rounds shy of a full box, so I dug out some cast lead SWCs I had lying around. These also fed without issue, but an unusual amount of leading resulted from just twenty rounds.

I've read elsewhere of less than spectacular results with lead bullets in these pistols, primarily due to lack of lead-in on the lands on the barrels rifling. The 9mm barrel seems to have enough lead-in to my eyeball guage, but the results don't lie. The smoke was also rather epic. I don't shoot plain lead bullets in anything anymore, and polymer coated bullets don't leave anything that thirty seconds with a brush wrapped in copper chore boy can't cure. Plated bullets are also fine.

I've stopped reloading for 9mm all together, so it's irrelevant to me. But, be aware if you're doggedly sticking to cast lead.

[rojocorsa]

I bought the basic "Service" Govt. model last week and finally got it out to the range today. Put 150 rounds of Magtech and S&B FMJ through it with no issues and ejection is textbook. Quite frankly, I'm impressed by the fit and finish for a 1911 that costs less than a case of .45Auto.

I'm seriously debating getting one of their 9mm Commanders because reasons.

I shot the 1911A1 ASF yesterday afternoon. I too am impressed with the fit and finish across the board. However the grip safety burrowed into my hand and after 166 rounds, I had to scrub my DNA off the gun.

Other than that, there's something to these guns. Trigger was actually surprisingly nice and crisp. This pistol broke around 4lbs 9oz. The sights are what they are.

Out of 166 rounds, I had two stoppages and Im not sure if it's because the gun is brand new or the mag or both ~ both times it was the Fiocchi 230 ball. My 200gr LSWC with the classic 4.3gr Clays worked just fine, all 50 of them.

This is the 3rd Tisas gun I've reviewed and the one with the least stoppages across the board. I'm curious as to whether the parkerizing helps as opposed to Cerakote and other finishes on critical tolerances.

There were around two hundred of these HPs that vaguely resemble the Hornady Critical Defense/Duty bullets sans polymer plug. They all fed fine without issue.

Sounds like Hornady HAP, their premium match bullet offering.

[HeavyDuty]

I started diagnosing my lighter than air JSOC today while stuck muted on work calls. I was getting hammer follow about 20% of the time. This is the one with the Wilson canned spring kit.

I did some light sear spring reforming, no better. So, I started reinstalling Tisas springs - first the hammer spring (still followed) and then adding in the sear spring which solved the issue. This left me with a 5.2# trigger.

Next step is reinstalling the Wilson reduced hammer spring and seeing if I get follow. If I don’t, I’m going to relieve the left side of the Wilson sear spring to remove any chance of frame drag and then start going Gumby on it. I’m not willing to admit defeat yet, and the ambi safety is getting easier to remove.