How do you remove a RDS?

[1Rangemaster]

That’s a good idea. I will usually just re-mark at the same spot… the toothpick makes it easy to keep it neat. The oil-based paint comes off really easy with a q-tip and some gun scrubber if the markings are looking too bad.

@SoCalDep and @HCM (if applicable):

Very timely as I'm going to inspect some MOS mounted RMR2s. The plates have witness marks. If there is no indication of movement/looseness, any reason to retorque or otherwise address plate, aside from degreasing?
Thanks in advance for any insights.

[JCN]

That’s a good idea. I will usually just re-mark at the same spot… the toothpick makes it easy to keep it neat. The oil-based paint comes off really easy with a q-tip and some gun scrubber if the markings are looking too bad.

It’s probably borne out of my being an optic slut, ha!

I move optics around so often that I’ve just evolved “lazy man” efficiency.

Silver sharpie and a little dot at 6 o’clock on the screw.

Black sharpie to cover it if I use the screw again, lol.

[SoCalDep]

@SoCalDep and @HCM (if applicable):

Very timely as I'm going to inspect some MOS mounted RMR2s. The plates have witness marks. If there is no indication of movement/looseness, any reason to retorque or otherwise address plate, aside from degreasing?
Thanks in advance for any insights.

Good question! I would leave the plate alone if it’s still tight.

[1Rangemaster]

Good question! I would leave the plate alone if it’s still tight.

Thank you sir.

Edit to add: makes me appreciate external battery compartments all the more...

[HCM]

@SoCalDep and @HCM (if applicable):

Very timely as I'm going to inspect some MOS mounted RMR2s. The plates have witness marks. If there is no indication of movement/looseness, any reason to retorque or otherwise address plate, aside from degreasing?
Thanks in advance for any insights.

Good question! I would leave the plate alone if it’s still tight.

Same, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[1Rangemaster]

Roger that!

[jgf]

I put the slide in a padded vice, use Fix it Sticks, and press straight down to fully and squarely seat the bit. Heat if there is red loctite.

I've found using a hot soldering iron touching the center of the screw for a short time works well.

[Utm]

FWIW instead of marking the optic body (which gets messy after multiple marks from multiple screw witnesses), I’ve gone to just marking the screw at 6 o’clock. If the mark is no longer at straight 6, then it has moved.

That way no mess on the optic itself.

I just use nail polish remover on a q tip to clean off the old witness marks

[mmc45414]

Unless it’s a weird non-standard screw that I don’t have spares of I will change the screws every time. I don’t necessarily think it’s required but at the cost of less than (usually) $0.25 - $0.50 a set I like using new ones.

I think I would worry about the socket as much as the integrity of the screw, though I guess at ~15 inch pounds my worry is probably misplaced.

[JCN]

I just use nail polish remover on a q tip to clean off the old witness marks

It’s not a big deal for sure, but I just don’t find the step necessary.

I’ve never had a screw loosen that was subtle. Usually it’s an 1/8 or 1/4 turn when it happens so marking to the 1/64th resolution doesn’t seem to hold much extra benefit for me. I would consider it if there were only one screw but for a dual screw system, 6 o’clock and just not dealing with any optic marks works well.