GP100 or PCC Comp 19?

[mmc45414]

1 - take the pin out and slightly flatten one end. I did mine with a 4 ounce ball peen and used the anvil on my vice. Replace by inserting non flattened end first. The flattened end should be slightly larger than the hole and will lock in.
2- take pin and ever so slightly bend pin in the middle and reinstall. I may have over bent mine causing minor difficulties to get back in and sometimes will walk a tiny amount.

I would also think that if you just pinched it with some wire cutters and drove it back it would probably stay.
Probably more evidence that most guns never get shot.

[gato naranja]

All 3 of my GPs did this. The correct way is to source oversized pins, I didn't have any patience for that so I used 2 methods found on the interweb.

1 - take the pin out and slightly flatten one end. I did mine with a 4 ounce ball peen and used the anvil on my vice. Replace by inserting non flattened end first. The flattened end should be slightly larger than the hole and will lock in.

2- take pin and ever so slightly bend pin in the middle and reinstall. I may have over bent mine causing minor difficulties to get back in and sometimes will walk a tony amount.

The first way did the best and is the least aggravating to do and the one I recommend.

The old timers who were certified gun cranks did tend to go with the oversize pin option. Most any gunsmith could turn one out that worked fine, and the jobs I was most impressed by were the ones with slightly domed pin ends that had been "set" on both ends with a punch just enough to upset the pins an almost invisible amount. The pins were usually just a wee bit proud of whatever they were in, IIRC.

"Splining" the end of a pin is sort of a variation on the flattening technique, but takes a bit more care to look nice.

Bending the pin was the quick and dirty way, and not necessarily the worst way depending on the situation. I was taught to make the bend gradual, not all in the center but as much of the length of the pin as practicable... YMMV.

While I was skeptical of them in the past, the medium-strength retaining compounds like Loctite 641 work pretty well when used thoughtfully. The higher-strength similar Locktite products are overkill and may make removal a real nightmare- I have seen a closely fitted barrel band that had the high-stength stuff applied in lieu of hard soldering have to be "surgically" removed from the barrel.

[Crazy Dane]

The old timers who were certified gun cranks did tend to go with the oversize pin option. Most any gunsmith could turn one out that worked fine, and the jobs I was most impressed by were the ones with slightly domed pin ends that had been "set" on both ends with a punch just enough to upset the pins an almost invisible amount. The pins were usually just a wee bit proud of whatever they were in, IIRC.

"Splining" the end of a pin is sort of a variation on the flattening technique, but takes a bit more care to look nice.

Bending the pin was the quick and dirty way, and not necessarily the worst way depending on the situation. I was taught to make the bend gradual, not all in the center but as much of the length of the pin as practicable... YMMV.

While I was skeptical of them in the past, the medium-strength retaining compounds like Loctite 641 work pretty well when used thoughtfully. The higher-strength similar Locktite products are overkill and may make removal a real nightmare- I have seen a closely fitted barrel band that had the high-stength stuff applied in lieu of hard soldering have to be "surgically" removed from the barrel.

This is where I screwed up. I put the pin across a hole in my armorer's block and hit it with a big punch making a not so gradual bend. I wish I had the skills to spline, that seems to be a more "professional" way.

[Willard]

Two that I'd recommend would be Rick Devoid on the east coast

Mr. Devoid worked on a 3” GP and a fixed sight Match Champion for me. Those two will not be traded or sold off while I am breathing.

[JonInWA]

Removing the rear sight pin and inducing a slight bend is the easiest solution, it's worked well with my Security Six. On my GP100, I had Chris Peters address it in conjunction with his rework and customization; according to his notes, he both peened and locktited it. Sucker hasn't budged an iota in 26 years of use. Best, Jon

[Chuck Whitlock]

I would imagine that hitting each side of the pin with a centering punch, with the opposite side supported, of course, would do the job.

[awp_101]

I was looking up articles on the half-lug I just ordered and found this.

Attachment 115211

Thanks for that, I’m going to add it to the Skeeter thread I started a while back!

Here’s the article: Skeeter's Dream Gun

[awp_101]

Already had the leaky hole plugged, I added the sight and grips and Apex hammer.

That’s the S&W fixed rear, right? Did you settle on a single load or does it work for multiple loads in the same weight/velocity range?

Was the Apex hammer a functional upgrade or just to have a spurless hammer?

[mmc45414]

That’s the S&W fixed rear, right?

I think the S&W sight originated as the Cylinder & Slide sight.

Do you plan to settle on a single load or is the project stalled and you are still farting around deciding?

FIFY...
My plan is to at some point settle on what I think is going to be my favorite general use 357 load and figure others will be close enough. Once I settle onto a load I will get a Dawson FO front (lots of sizes available), but other shiny objects have distracted me. You would think I have enough reloading machines I could do more than one thing at a time, but...

Was the Apex hammer a functional upgrade or just to have a spurless hammer?

I wanted the spurless hammer, and I am a bit of an Apex fanboi so I gave it a try. It is a lot of money, but it is nice, and came with the spring kit also. I believe since it is not a skeletonized MIM part it makes up for the loss of mass by being heavier, and has enough mojo with a pretty light spring. It does have a nice trigger for just a drop-in kit.

[mmc45414]

I believe since it is not a skeletonized MIM part it makes up for the loss of mass by being heavier, and has enough mojo with a pretty light spring.

This shows what I was referring to, there are cavities in the factory MIM part. It was a splurge, but I think it was only $150 when I bought it. But I am in a mode of having less stuff, so more willing to indulge in the stuff I do have.