As an aside, the 856 is not simply the existing 85 frame with a sixth charge hole somehow magicked into the cylinder. It’s a new, larger frame.Originally Posted by jh9
As an aside, the 856 is not simply the existing 85 frame with a sixth charge hole somehow magicked into the cylinder. It’s a new, larger frame.
Maybe it was just my sample that stacked, or more likely all this shooting of striker and 2011 pistols has made me soft when it comes to heavier triggers!
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Leaf springs rule. Coil springs suck.
I had to use almost all available elevation in my 507k for my 10 yard zero with Federal American Eagle 130 FMJ. Maxed out trying to get 158 RNL to hit POA, and then subsequently backed off. Next trip I’m gonna see how 120gr Federal Punch prints in relation.
Trying some VZ grips. I’m not 100% in love with how these point in my hand with the optic, though they’re better than the OEM rubber grips, and I’m gonna experiment with them for a bit. Presenting a revolver with a high mechanical sight offset is a whole new experience for me.
The technique I've been using since a few years ago starting with the 509 Compact MRD ...getting the gun horizontal early in the draw and just raising it into my eye line... is working pretty well with the 856 so far, letting me keep my head upright and shoulders relaxed.
What's old is new again....
It's such a common thing for revolvers with high height over bore that the old school Jpoint (the very first and original "K" cut footprint that then spawned the RMS and then the 507k and the EPS)....
Has a 1 degree shim available for it.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1069311863
I have used this (as well as an RMR 1 degree shim) when putting optics on revolvers in the past.
If you zero to 25 yards it'll require less drastic of an elevation shift too.
EDIT: in a pinch, I have used folded pieces of aluminum foil to act as an angled shim on Revolvers. I wouldn’t do it on a reciprocating slide, but it holds up quite well on a revolver.
Last edited by JCN; 03-16-2023 at 01:27 PM.
1) Yes, I know.
2) Why would I zero a 3” CCW revolver at 25 yards?
The limiting factor on my Taurus 85 in the sights and my eyes. Somehow I am still very accurate at 15 yards with it. An optic I'm sure would give me another vantage as well as an extra inch. The way I carry my 2" now it wouldn't make a difference and I can probably use the same holster. I'm not a big fan of carry optics, but I occasionally carry the snub as backup in the woods. I think the optic could come in handy then. This gun is definitely on my top list of next guns to buy.
I carried optic on a Glock for about a year or maybe more, I got fed up with the dust that gathers on the glass and went back to irons. I found I can be just as accurate with the right iron sights, if not more. The thing with Taurus revolvers is that they don't have good iron sight options. The optic option is a good alternative while keeping the price point good.
My good old 85 has never failed me. It handles the hottest loads, and has a nice trigger after I polished the internals.
Why wouldn’t you?
Here is my 1” Taurus View at 25 yards
Taurus 380 at 20 yards
856 up close.
Just because it’s a small revolver doesn’t change anything.
And if you had to take a longer shot you don’t want to send a round over their heads and hit someone else (a very real possibility when you zero a red dot too close).
If you zero at 25, you’ll at most be 1-2” low up close which most people aren’t good enough to matter.
You zero close with high height over bore and it’s going to be potentially WAY high out further.
EDIT: factory iron sight revolvers don’t put rounds over target heads. If you’re going to use an RDS on a revolver at least confirm whatever zero you have with a couple longer range shots just in case. You never know when you could be in a Dickens like situation and called to do more. You’d hate to hurt an innocent just because you didn’t know the ballistics and zero of your gun in that situation.
I like a 25 yard zero because I’ll never shoot higher than the target. I can aim head or upper torso and know I am still on target even if it hits mid or low chest at 50+ yards.
Last edited by JCN; 03-17-2023 at 05:43 AM.
I know the usual self defense situation is 7 yards and closer.
If training time is limited it makes sense to concentrate on adequate speeds with adequate hits.
But know that it’s a compromise.
When training, don’t mentally limit yourself to lowest common denominator or it’s a recipe for stagnation.
With handguns I want to be able to aim high thoracic and know that even with bullet drop it’ll still be on target.
And not over the target. You want confidence that if you do your part, the gun will do its part.
This is what the sights look like:
In a gun this small
If you self limit your potential like “I’m only going to use this gun at 7 yards” then you’ll never push your skill.
Last edited by JCN; 03-17-2023 at 07:57 AM.
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