Design Features of a 870/590 Shotgun WML

[L-2]

Yes, I've also had broken switches on both my Surefire X300 and Streamlight TLR-1 lights by merely using them on handguns.
I found it a good idea to have at least one spare light or switch, whether Surefire or Streamlight (as I used either for work) and it took several days or over a week to get a spare switch (not good when needing a weapon-light with holster for work), but not the biggest deal to go back to old-school-methods for a week or so by switching to the old holster set-up for a short time.

In my specific cases it went something like this:

w/Surefire. Ok, no problem. We'll send you out another switch (for free). Me, a week later: Where's my switch? Surefire: Sorry, I forgot to send it. I'll definitely send you out one today though.

w/Streamlight. Your light is out of warranty but you can easily buy another one. Me: Which is what I did and it arrived whether via MidwayUSA or Amazon, I don't recall, within a few days.

I also probably have ~6 of these pistol weaponlights, usually mounted on various pistols, rifles, and shotguns. Work made it easier to choose brands by specifying only Surefire or Streamlight for these personally-supplied items. I didn't have to bother researching any of the many other brands out there.

[LJP]

For me, I want a light integrated into the forend that doesn’t overall change the ergonomics of the OEM forend and has momentary switching that allows activation both with a standard hold on the forend and with it held in the short stocked position. Oh, and it has to work on a SBS. If I had an understanding of CAD, as well as unlimited time and budget and access to a 3D printer, I would envision a dual head forend. Imagine having twin lights with essentially tail cap momentary switches, wired in tandem, at roughly 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock on the forward third of the forend. If you were to put, for instance, two Streamlight ProTac 1L lights on a stock Remington forend, nestled in in either side, that would be close in concept. Just with a lot more wiring and design. This would allow ambidextrous activation, and would allow activation if the hand position changed due to short stocking the gun. Plus, with two light heads, there is some redundancy. It would be necessarily wide, but balanced. I’m not terribly concerned with the light output, as for me, the shotgun is an indoor weapon.

[diananike]

That used to be my go-to… until…



I think I have six or so TLR-1s floating around. One on my duty gun, one on my truck gun, so on and so forth. That one pictured was on my TAC-14. Only on that TAC-14 and had a little bit of use behind it.

I am aware of those latches being a weak point, but I can only attribute that failure to it being on a 12 gauge.
]

That’s exactly what happened to my old tlr1.

After 10 years and a lot of rounds so I wasn’t disappointed with its durability at the end of the day.

It spent years on a Glock 17.
Then about 5 years on a Tac14
I reckon the 12 gauge did it in. But it had at least 500 rounds of shotgun shells through it before it failed.
Maybe not the most robust battery cap design but I might replace it with another TLR anyway.
That gun mostly sits in the closet now anyway for bumps in the night.
Most of my practice is with another TLR Racker equipped Tac14.

[willie]

Surefire 300 X series lights were designed for handgun use. The Scout series lights were designed for long gun use. I discovered this information while searching for explanations on switch and catch failures. As expensive as these products are, one wonders why the company doesn't improve switches and latches. I've owned two including a 300 acquired recently. I also have two Streamlights which I prefer. I favor their switches. My use is for a home defense weapon only. If I were a police officer, I might reconsider.

[Erick Gelhaus]

Surefire 300 X series lights were designed for handgun use. The Scout series lights were designed for long gun use. I discovered this information while searching for explanations on switch and catch failures.

I did not realize that was not widely known.

[willie]

I did not realize that was not widely known.

It was news to me but will say that I was uninformed. My weapon lights came to me in good deals as in like new and cheap. I bought a brand new Surefire 300 from a nerd for $180. I run hot and cold on using weapon lights which in my case would be inside my house. The 300 has a run time of 75 minutes, and mine went dead after playing with it in familiarization activity. I'm also in the ignorant category concerning red dot sights. 25 years ago I put different ones on shotguns, a Smith revolver, and a couple 22 pistols. I tore hogs and crows a new ass with a red dot on a Mossberg pump.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Integrated into the forend or add on WML?
Ergonomics?
Activation method and location?
How would you turn it on and where would you place the activation?
Constant on or momentary only?
Lumens?
Will it work with SBS models?

Regardless of where it attaches to the forearm, I want to be able to activate it with both the thumb and the finger tips of the hand working the forearm;
I want both momentary and constant-on capability;
A clicky tailcap with a wired rocker switch at the end of a 6-8" cable would make me very happy. Hit the clicky with my thumb and the rocker with my finger tips. Limiting the cord length would hold it close to the forearm without much slack.

As it stands now, if I had the requisite 870/590, the need to outfit it ricky-tick, and the cash to do so burning a hole in my pocket:

I'd use a Hogue overmolded forend: https://www.hogueinc.com/stocks/moss...rmolded-forend

...to which I would I would attach a small rail section at the forward 6:00, hogging out the rubber and whatnot in order to try to get it as close to the Ruger PC Carbine forend as I can: https://ruger.com/products/pcCarbine...ets/19100.html

...and mount an SL TLR RM1, with the remote swich positioned where I like: https://www.streamlight.com/docs/def...sn=37efbef0_17


I do like LJB's idea of dual lights at 4:00-5:00 and 7;00-8:00....that could cut down on the light offset below the mag tube.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Has anyone tried the Nightstick forearm?

https://www.amazon.com/Nightstick-SF.../dp/B0B61T88CQ

My issue with that design, as well as the Streamlight and EOTech versions, is that the hand operating the forend is no longer in the same plane as the firing hand on a conventional stock or Shockwave/TAC-14 grip. I suspect that my be less of an issue with a pistol grip stock such as a Mesa Tactial Urbino, but I haven't experimented hands-on.

[Chuck Whitlock]

In another part of this forum, @RevolverRob dropped a link to this vendor:

https://wooxstore.com/products/gladiatore-fore-end

This changes some of my thinking.

[Lon]

In another part of this forum, @RevolverRob dropped a link to this vendor:

https://wooxstore.com/products/gladiatore-fore-end

This changes some of my thinking.

That’s a good looking forearm.