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Thread: Pump Shotgun Weapon Lights: I hate them all

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by gato naranja View Post
    That old reciprocating part is going to get you no matter what, so the best a person can hope for is a lesser degree of suck. It took me a lot of time and money to come to that extraordinarily unhelpful conclusion. Once you add a sling, many otherwise serviceable light options can become problematic (and vice-versa) on a corn sheller.

    Were I to want a defensive/combat/tactical/gamer shotgun as opposed to a gray-bearded midwesterner's utility/emergency shotgun, I'd just cut my losses and start over with the most reliable and vetted semiauto I could afford.
    I sold my gen 1 1301 awhile ago and have regretted it lately. I've been eyeing the new generation and slowly counting my pennies..

  2. #12
    Site Supporter Paul D's Avatar
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    This set up has worked with me. No ambi access but it was simple and easy to manipulate.

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  3. #13
    Site Supporter Erick Gelhaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 167 View Post
    The Impact Weapons Components SMC is the best light mount solution I have found. It doesn’t fix all of the problems, but it keeps the light tight to the gun, and elevates above the forward sling mount. It also mounts with a larger interface than standard MLOK nuts, which I think is prudent.
    The backside of this mount is real close to what I have been looking to find or awaiting. Thanks!

  4. #14
    Site Supporter Hambo's Avatar
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    I want a small control pad mounted on the fore end, and the light mounted separately on the barrel/mag tube. Like the remote for a ceiling fan/light, only a lot smaller.
    "Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA

  5. #15
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hambo View Post
    I want a small control pad mounted on the fore end, and the light mounted separately on the barrel/mag tube. Like the remote for a ceiling fan/light, only a lot smaller.
    A few companies have tried RF signaling for these things. Which I think is the only reliable method - because Bluetooth isn't reliable in this realm. Given the general proximity of the light to the remote, RF should be reliable and instantaneous. Unless of course the battery is dead. In a home defense context I think this works. I wonder if in a LE/MIL context the number of other RF frequencies in use might cause interference?

    I've thought A LOT about exactly what you propose.

  6. #16
    Site Supporter Hambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    A few companies have tried RF signaling for these things. Which I think is the only reliable method - because Bluetooth isn't reliable in this realm. Given the general proximity of the light to the remote, RF should be reliable and instantaneous. Unless of course the battery is dead. In a home defense context I think this works. I wonder if in a LE/MIL context the number of other RF frequencies in use might cause interference?

    I've thought A LOT about exactly what you propose.
    It's all magic to this caveman, but I'll buy one if you get it to work.
    "Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA

  7. #17
    Site Supporter PNWTO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hambo View Post
    I want a small control pad mounted on the fore end, and the light mounted separately on the barrel/mag tube. Like the remote for a ceiling fan/light, only a lot smaller.
    This approach sounds solid. Thinking over my previous post, regarding a hard-wired endcap light, I don't think it's feasible. A whole new receiver design would be needed and the connection would need to be routed in such a way as to not interfere with the action. I would imagine a savvy soul with a soldering iron and a garage door remote could drum up a workable prototype rather quickly.

    Like @RevolverRob said, I don't see why RF wouldn't be workable for the average joe. I don't think there would be an immediate innovation drive from the .mil side since there is an effort to minimize EM footprints post-GWOT; although RF energy is so low.
    "Do nothing which is of no use." -Musashi

    What would TR do? TRCP BHA

  8. #18
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    So, I am of two minds about this - but I'll reveal ONE of them I am thinking about. This is inspired by things like the Reptilia Torch and the Cloud Defensive OWL. A machined central body that sits between a mag tube and barrel, with light body and batteries straddled by the tubes. It would be held in place by the mag tube nut, whether that's flat or an extension nut doesn't matter.

    It looks large, but it's only ~60mm long overall (shorter than a shotgun shell). Two batteries, one on either side of the central body. One side is blank caps, the other is head and switch, modularity would be the name of the game.



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  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by 167 View Post
    The Impact Weapons Components SMC
    An interesting alternative might be the Kinect Surefire Pro Mount.

    https://kineticdg.com/product/surefi...d-m-lok-mount/

    I have had good success with a Kinect two slot pic rail on my Arridus MagPul 1301 hand guard that I use to mount a Streamlight HL-X. I switched to it after having plastic deformation issues with a normal single slot MagPul M-Lok rail.

  10. #20
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LukeNCMX View Post
    An interesting alternative might be the Kinect Surefire Pro Mount.

    https://kineticdg.com/product/surefi...d-m-lok-mount/

    I have had good success with a Kinect two slot pic rail on my Arridus MagPul 1301 hand guard that I use to mount a Streamlight HL-X. I switched to it after having plastic deformation issues with a normal single slot MagPul M-Lok rail.
    I would bet the QD buttons on that mount will create a tight fit with the front ridge on the Magpul forend. There is not a ton of space in front of that front-most M-Lok slot on the pump forends.

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