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Thread: Winter Project: A Mauser-based 1911-magfed Bolt Action

  1. #11
    I Demand Pie Lex Luthier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellydonut View Post
    You may or may not find this stripper-clip-fed integrally suppressed .45 Mauser project inspirational: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd-eOiOK37N/
    That guy is amazing. Thanks for the link.
    "If I ever needed to hunt in a tuxedo, then this would be the rifle I'd take." - okie john

    "Not being able to govern events, I govern myself." - Michel De Montaigne

  2. #12
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellydonut View Post
    You may or may not find this stripper-clip-fed integrally suppressed .45 Mauser project inspirational: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd-eOiOK37N/
    That is awesome. And so far beyond my meager talents...

  3. #13
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    My bottom metal was the first piece to arrive actually. Scored this off of Ebay for $20. It was covered in grease and grime. 10 minutes with the wire wheel in my drill and then another ten or so with a hand held wire brush, some dawn dish soap, and some hot water.

    Little pitted on one side, but that will be hidden in the stock. I hope I look this good when I'm ~100+ years old.

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  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    The hardest mechanical part of this project will be removing the old barrel from the action. I have some Delrin barrel blocks which I will use to lock the barrel into my vise. Then I have to improvise some kind of action wrench (or buy one) to twist the action loose.
    .
    Start soaking the barreled action in your penatrating solvent (kroil, atf/solvent, PB Blaster etc) of choice NOW.

    Usually mausers come apart without heat or having to put it in a lathe and use a parting tool to relieve the shoulder but 100+ years of field use /neglect does open the potential for rust etc..

    In regards to the action wrench, if you don't find one cheap PM me and I can mail you a loaner..
    Skinner Precision LLC official Account
    07 Manufacturer specializing in Competition Rifles

  5. #15
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    Finally got the action in today. I was pleased to see that it has already been refinished once or twice in its history and that the cartouche on the action isn't particularly fancy or deep. So, I won't have concerns about drill and tapping through it.

    The bolt is okay, but not going to fit my general aesthetic at least partly. So, I'll probably swap the shroud, cocking piece, and safety for Swedish checkered pieces. The down turned handle is good for what it is (a forged out handle that is fairly short overall). I don't intend to touch it other than cleaning and refinishing. The gun is not getting a scope, just a red dot. So, I don't mind the tall flag safety. I like that it is a 3-position piece that locks the striker, not just the trigger.

    This project will take a short hiatus while we move and get set up in the new place and I wait for my parts to come in from Rhineland.

  6. #16
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    "Hiatus" measured in hours I suppose.

    Still packing up this house, but after awhile a break is needed. So, I pulled the bolt apart, cleaned it, and began attacking it with my absolute favorite Dremel attachment (Super-Flexible Sanding Wheel in 220 and 400 grit - https://www.mcmaster.com/dremels/sup...-with-shank-8/). Love these wheels for finer pieces like guns, because they rapidly strip grease, rust, paint, etc, without removing significant amounts of metal.

    Anyways, I noticed the effort needed to cock the gun (the '93 action is a cock-on-close) was pretty substantial. It felt like more than should be necessary. Pulling the bolt apart it was apparent why, probably 100-years of gunk, grease, and some light rust was in there. I pulled out the cocking piece and polished the absolute shit out of it, reassembled and I'd cut cocking action effort roughly in half.

    Next is bolt turning effort (the extractor ring needs to be removed and underside cleaned up, once I dripped some oil in there I can feel the rust) and polishing the striker assembly so the spring rides smoothly over it. Once I get the whole thing polished out and cleaned up and make sure the gun feeds, I'm going to send the bolt assembly out for coating in some kind of reasonably slick, hard wearing, thin, coating like DLC, Nickel-Boron, or PVD Ti - Not TiN though, because that process needs to be about 800-degrees and that will undoubtedly ruin any hardness in this old bolt.

  7. #17
    Ready! Fire! Aim! awp_101's Avatar
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    I didn't know Rhineland was still around. I looked at those kits probably in the 2010-2012 time frame and they were perpetually out of stock. Have they given you any kind of ETA or ship date?
    Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain

    Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?

  8. #18
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp_101 View Post
    I didn't know Rhineland was still around. I looked at those kits probably in the 2010-2012 time frame and they were perpetually out of stock. Have they given you any kind of ETA or ship date?
    No. They are listed as "in stock" - but I have no idea if that is reality. And I'm a bit frustrated with them in terms of communication.

  9. #19
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    @RevolverRob I haven’t looked to see if anyone makes one, but I really doubt you need a full power striker spring to run pistol ammo reliably. Experimenting with cutting a spring down yourself or getting a softer one might slick up that action even more.

  10. #20
    Very cool project, thanks for sharing.

    Though I can't help myself, keep thinking about the ability to also shoot 45 Super in that rifle http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/45super.html

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