Heat the rail up with a propane or mapp-gas torch turn the gun upside down and clamp the rail in a vice and pull the gun off of the rail. Just make sure to have some padding where the gun might come into contact with the vice.
You know this was pretty much what I was going to try before I decided to try the acetone soak first.
By putting the flame and heat into the aluminum rail, my thinking is it will protect the receiver since aluminum dissipates heat so much faster than steel. Aluminum also expands at a far greater rate than steel when heated and that will also help break the bond. I only have to break the bond on the aluminum piece, once it's gone acetone and a brass bristle wire brush will take it off the receiver. 600 degrees isn't going to hurt the receiver metallurgically but it may well mess up the finish which I do wish to avoid if possible. If I can get the rail to 600 degrees quickly the receiver may not get all that hot.
If the acetone doesn't work I'll tape off the receiver with some aluminum HVAC tape and give it a go. I know it'll come off, just don't know what it's going to look like when it does.
Listen to Willie. Not the same gun, but I had a Model 12 donated to me that I wanted to make into a slug gun. I even test fired it before commencing the work, but only with birdshot. It was an old gun with 2 9/16" chambers which will shoot 2 3/4" shells but creates a lot of pressure. I had the smith install a receiver sight, cut the barrel to 22", ream the chamber for 2 3/4" shells and install a front sight. Unfortunately, due to years of shooting the 2 3/4" shells, the lug recess in the receiver was deformed. When I tried zeroing it with slugs, the bolt lug would slip out of the recess under recoil. It would literally put a kink in the case about 3/8" from the rim and totally lock up the gun. The barrel was still fine, but the receiver went for parts. Test fire first, always.
Man you weren't kidding. They are built like tanks!
I picked up a set of N cells for it and it wouldn't wake up. So I took it apart to give all the contacts a thorough vinegar/soda water then alcohol cleaning. I took it pretty far down, pulling the base and main gasket completely off. It did have some crusty but light oxide on the contacts and springs both in the battery box and just inside the housing due to it being stored vertically while the batteries leaked for who knows how long. It didn't look all that bad really and it all cleaned up nicely with some easy abrasion with qtips and polishing compound. But to no avail, it's toast. After doing surgery on it I was really wanting it to work. Bummer, I had another spot for this thing but I'll grab a ACRO or something.
I was quite impressed with the build quality and just how robust the thing was.
Receiver is now at a little over 24 hours soaking submerged in the acetone can. I'll see if I can detach the mount tomorrow evening. I peeked this evening half hoping that the mount would have fallen off. Nope...
Made some progress today. Clamped the epoxied rail in a vise and yanked on the barrel. Came right off. Not sure the acetone soak did much as the part that was stuck on the receiver was hard as stone. Got that off with a brass brush which took more than enough effort to take the bluing off too. Bummer. I'll put several coats of Oxpho-Blue on it and if it looks too obvious I'll mask off the barrel and paint the receiver too. I'm pretty sure if he'd have ever fired a couple of rounds full power buck or slugs through this gun the optic would have punched him in the head. It's a pretty heavy optic in a heavy recoiling gage would create a bit of inertia.
Was going to just do the wood in khaki or dark olive but it looked like shit in a single color (tried both), so I ended up doing this. It's not a $1200 LTT 1301 so it'll do.
Last edited by Spartan1980; 10-09-2022 at 08:04 PM. Reason: cAiNt sPElL