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Thread: Century Arms MKE AP5-C....buy it or you will regret it later.

  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by JRB View Post
    Magpul MOE handguard + light mount of choice is 'easy button'.
    You can also drill holes in a plastic handguard to match the screw holes for something like an Odin Mini with the 1913 bracket removed and mount it directly through the handguard.
    I got to shoot an SP5K-PDW SBR that had a contract K grip with a light mounted in such a way, the thumb naturally fell onto the button on the back of the light so it was very slick and kept the original look too.

    Samson, MI, FAB defense, and KAC all make rail/MLOK systems of various price and availability.

    For the full size there's Surefire, B&T, and Steiner handguards with integrated lights. The Steiner is the best IMHO because it clears most 3-lug suppressors unlike the B&T or Surefire, but any of those three cost $350+ used and $500+ new, which is kind of ridiculous.

    Edit: aside from some real 80's/early-90's 2xAA Maglite mounts that bolted in over the original handguard using the retaining pin hole as a bolt hole (and now command HK collector prices for some insane reason) I haven't seen any light mounts that don't replace or modify the factory handguard.
    Sweet, the Magpul handguards are on sale, too!

    Is the 80 degree locking head really needed for suppressed fire?
    #RESIST

  2. #52
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    ABQ, NM
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    Sweet, the Magpul handguards are on sale, too!

    Is the 80 degree locking head really needed for suppressed fire?
    Strongly recommended, yes. The more backpressure generated by the suppressor, the more critical it is.
    Since it's a roller-delayed blowback system, anything that increases blowback is best addressed with a more aggressive locking piece to balance it all out. Otherwise the increased blowback basically overpowers the roller delay and starts beating the crap out of the gun.

  3. #53
    I would buy the 80 degree piece and install it, and take both to the range. If it won't cycle, put the original back in and maybe try the 80 again once the springs are worn down. I think not every set up needs it (depends on the gun, suppressor back pressure, ammo weight/pressure, your stock set up etc.). BUT if your gun needs it and you don't use it you could damage the receiver over time.

  4. #54
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Quote Originally Posted by JRB View Post
    Magpul MOE handguard + light mount of choice is 'easy button'.
    You can also drill holes in a plastic handguard to match the screw holes for something like an Odin Mini with the 1913 bracket removed and mount it directly through the handguard.
    I got to shoot an SP5K-PDW SBR that had a contract K grip with a light mounted in such a way, the thumb naturally fell onto the button on the back of the light so it was very slick and kept the original look too.

    Samson, MI, FAB defense, and KAC all make rail/MLOK systems of various price and availability.

    For the full size there's Surefire, B&T, and Steiner handguards with integrated lights. The Steiner is the best IMHO because it clears most 3-lug suppressors unlike the B&T or Surefire, but any of those three cost $350+ used and $500+ new, which is kind of ridiculous.

    Edit: aside from some real 80's/early-90's 2xAA Maglite mounts that bolted in over the original handguard using the retaining pin hole as a bolt hole (and now command HK collector prices for some insane reason) I haven't seen any light mounts that don't replace or modify the factory handguard.
    I have a full size Zenith/MKE. Here are pics of the MOE handguard. I'm using a Surefire Scout with an MLOK mount on the right side, with the pressure pad on the left side in a M-LOK® Tape Switch Mounting Plate – Surefire® ST. I used some hockey tape to cover the cord and make sure it didn't snag on anything. It works very well. Also a Magpul VFG (I SBR'd the gun). I tried the Magpul grip module, but the grip was thinner than I liked so I ended up putting it in the huge box of experimental purchases. It does fit, you just don't use the front pushpin. I also bought the Magpul selector and it works fine on the original MKE grip module.

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  5. #55
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    ABQ, NM
    Quote Originally Posted by GlockenSpiel View Post
    I would buy the 80 degree piece and install it, and take both to the range. If it won't cycle, put the original back in and maybe try the 80 again once the springs are worn down. I think not every set up needs it (depends on the gun, suppressor back pressure, ammo weight/pressure, your stock set up etc.). BUT if your gun needs it and you don't use it you could damage the receiver over time.
    Ammo power factor plays a role as well. 115gr steel case Russian gun kibble and quality +P stuff are different beasts, especially in 124-147gr varieties.

    RCM has the locking pieces in stock for $35, good to have it just to add that flexibility to the weapon really.


    Has anyone with an AP5 measured the bolt gap as it came out of the box, and re-measured it after the '500rnd break-in'?

  6. #56
    I was kinda hoping that installing the 80 degree locking head would not induce malfunctions on every trigger pull, but that’s not the case. WTF.

    Edited to add: 147gr subs with a can. Ran fine before this change.
    #RESIST

  7. #57
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    ABQ, NM
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    I was kinda hoping that installing the 80 degree locking head would not induce malfunctions on every trigger pull, but that’s not the case. WTF.

    Edited to add: 147gr subs with a can. Ran fine before this change.
    What kind of malfunctions? Does it run with with a 100 or 110* locking piece?

  8. #58
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    I was kinda hoping that installing the 80 degree locking head would not induce malfunctions on every trigger pull, but that’s not the case. WTF.

    Edited to add: 147gr subs with a can. Ran fine before this change.
    What locking piece brand and what gap? And we are talking a full size MP5, right?

    A few years ago I bought the RCM and then HKParts 80 degree aka 28 LP for Zenith K-PDW.

    The RCM gap went to something waay out of range while the HKP was within tolerance. With the right rollers they both worked fine.

    BUT for full size MP5s you don't change the LP, whether subs, supers, suppressed, or not.

    I just sold off my Ambi-packs to pay for red dot pistol shenanigans, especially since the Magpul ESK works great and the triggers on the SEF packs are better.

    And then found a local selling the B&T brace for a steal.


  9. #59
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    TEXAS !
    Enabler post- Atlantic Arms has bare bones model AP-5 and AP-5 P on sale for $1099 after “add to cart” pricing.

    They also have the S&B braces for both on sale for $99 and MKE mags 2/$79.

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  10. #60
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    ABQ, NM
    PSA has the AP5-M (MP5K non-PDW) style for $899 after the coupon code:

    https://palmettostatearmory.com/cent...hg6036a-n.html

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