Could Use Insight on Choosing a Primary Carry Revolver, Advice Welcome

[SwampDweller]

For an IWB revolver that was meant to be a primary gun, and is going to see a lot of magnums fired through it, I would go with a Ruger. Either a Security 6, or a GP100. Personally I think the Security 6 guns are simply stellar, and they used to be had for pretty cheap money but that seems to not be the case like it once was. Since you are carrying IWB, I don't think it matters too much between the 3" or 4" and for me, sometimes the longer barrel is actually a better choice as it rides a little better, and is more secure, much like how a 5" 1911 seems to work better IWB than a Colt Officer's ACP with a 3.5" barrel.

So, the punchline is that I recommend a Ruger Security 6 or GP100.

Good point about the slight advantage in IWB carrying a 4" vs 3" barrel. Hell, I used to IWB carry a 6" Colt Python all day every day as a courier and never gave it a second thought. Then again, I was 18-22 then.

[SwampDweller]

Late to the party.

3 inch k frame for 38s

3 inch Ruger for .357 mags or 38s

If I was all in, I might buy 2, one for dry fire/ live fire practice and the other for carry.

Many used models abound v. new.

Some can be had with more modern sights in their latest iterations.

Get some instruction on manipulation and shooting them at speed.

(Don’t be the guy who at a IDPA BUG side “match” uses a borrowed j frame with a very double thumbs forward grip and gets good and burned by some heat coming off the cylinder gap.)

Looking forward to see what you end up with.

I will definitely let everyone know what I end up with. Will probably place the order this weekend. And yes, I agree with the wisdom of having at least 2 duplicates; one for carry and one for training (and/or backup if primary goes down). I actually ideally like having 3 examples of something I plan on seriously carrying. One for carry after it's been vetted, one for training (dry fire and live fire), and one that's been vetted, cleaned, then put away as a backup.

As far as used vs new... in many cases it seems like the older ones go for more than new production ones, particularly with S&W revolvers.

[SwampDweller]

@jetfire put out a video comparing the 686, GP100 and Python about a year ago.

I just watched this. Good info all around. My standard for long-term reliability of a defensive handgun is 2000 rounds, and it looks like both the Ruger and the Colt did so easily, even without being cleaned. I don't plan on making a defensive handgun go 2k rounds without being cleaned, but it's nice to know it's possible. I like having 2k rounds with no issues provided adequate cleaning.

I wonder if any of the aftermarket changes to the S&W could've contributed to the malfunction, although I don't know how that would cause the crud under the extractor star.

[HeavyDuty]

I concur with basically everyone who's said that a 3 inch is the way to go. I have a number of 3 inch revolvers, and I find it to be just about the perfect length for an AIWB carried revolver. My favorite of the ones I carry is the 3 inch DAO GP100 in 357 Magnum.

I’ve held numerous times that in a perfect world 3” and 5” revolvers would be predominant.

[jtcarm]

The old problems seem to have been entirely resolved over a year ago.

I'm sure it's detailed in the couple of Python threads in this sub-forum.

Bill Wilson’s comments on the sights turned me off.

For $1,500, I’d expect sights that hold their zero.

I’ve handled a couple and while they had good DA triggers, SA was unimpressive and the total package seemed too bulky for concealment.

So it sounds like the OPs requirements are;
Concealable IWB
More powerful than a .38 Special
Able to leap tall buildings..,oops, got confused there.
Takes a lickin’ & keeps on tickin’ (from lots of full-house loads.)

Yup, 3” GP100.

That said, I carry a 3” K-frame.

[Dave T]

I’ve held numerous times that in a perfect world 3” and 5” revolvers would be predominant.

For me the one exception to your standard would be with the N-frame S&W. The 3.5" 357 Magnum and M-27 is just such a beautiful and balanced revolver I'm having a Brazilian 1937 Smith done with a 3.5" barrel. I'll post pictures when it's finished.

Dave

[JonInWA]

How do you feel about a regular 4" GP100 vs the Match Champion version? Personally, I like the looks of the standard one better, but is there an advantage to the MC?

I think of the Match Champion as a sort of modernized Security Six (if you choose the adjustable sight version) or Service Six (if you choose the fixed Novak sight version). I think it's biggest niche is when shooting with light .357 or .38 Special cartridges, especially with the half lug barrel-like, in competition...Hey, Match Champion, get it??? (although it of course would make a fine EDC GP100 too).

Also they come slightly pre-tuned by Ruger out of the box. It might also make a bit of a GP100 Mountain Gun of sorts when every ounce counts when in the wilderness.

For full-house .357 magnum loads, I'd stick with the full-lugged standard GP100, although the Match Champion I'm sure would perform just fine with them.

Best, Jon

[jtcarm]

I think of the Match Champion as a sort of modernized Security Six (if you choose the adjustable sight version) or Service Six (if you choose the fixed Novak sight version). I think it's biggest niche is when shooting with light .357 or .38 Special cartridges, especially with the half lug barrel-like, in competition...Hey, Match Champion, get it??? (although it of course would make a fine EDC GP100 too).

Also they come slightly pre-tuned by Ruger out of the box. It might also make a bit of a GP100 Mountain Gun of sorts when every ounce counts when in the wilderness.

For full-house .357 magnum loads, I'd stick with the full-lugged standard GP100, although the Match Champion I'm sure would perform just fine with them.

Best, Jon

I have both a GP100 MC (10mm) and a Security Six.

While they’re both great revolvers, the MC is no Six Series. The Security Six is downright svelte next to the GP.

I don’t see where the MC has any additional tuning besides a hammer shim. I’ve been able to improve mine considerably (including 2 more hammer shims and 3 for the hammer dog.)

[MolonLabe416]

I’m a bit of a outlier, but I really don’t see the need for 357. If I did I’d go with the GO-100 or an L Frame.

I have the 3” WC GP-100. The rest of my revolvers are K and J Frames, with two N Frames. The N’s are safe queens for me.

If I felt underguned with 38 Special (I don’t), I’d move up to 44 Special, 45 Colt, or 45 ACP in a 3.5” N Frame.

3” is the sweet spot for me in a K Frame size revolver.

A 2” Model 12 is a delight and very manageable with 150 grain HCWCs.

[SwampDweller]

I have both a GP100 MC (10mm) and a Security Six.

While they’re both great revolvers, the MC is no Six Series. The Security Six is downright svelte next to the GP.

I don’t see where the MC has any additional tuning besides a hammer shim. I’ve been able to improve mine considerably (including 2 more hammer shims and 3 for the hammer dog.)

To you and @JonInWA as well, what does/doesn't a hammer shim do? I mainly care about quality control in terms of the thing working in as many thousands of rounds as I can get it to go. If shims make it more aligned with wear or something, I'm interested, but if it doesn't matter in that regard... I actually like the way the 4" regular GP100 feels compared to the 4" MC, but that's just me. My top priority is QC and durability/reliability.