Recommendations for a basic pistol cleaning kit?

[Cheap Shot]

Not one mention of Hoppes #9

You people disgust me

You're all a bunch of hipsters! frog lube, CLP, motor oil, vagisil, KY, Bah humbug!

Excuse me while I go yell at clouds

[revchuck38]

I find that cleaning a revolver needs more than a bore snake, especially when shooting lead bullets. I can't get the build-up at the end of the chamber with anything other than a chamber brush. OTOH, even when shooting lead bullets, a bore brush does a decent job in an autoloader, assuming that the bullets fit the bore.

ETA: That's when it's really funky. When there's not a lot of build-up, I use a bore snake too.

[Totem Polar]

You know what? Y’all are right. All I ever use is bore snakes, brush and jag attachments, patches, a toothbrush, pipecleaners, hoppes no 9, paper towel, and whatever cool-guy lube tube I have laying around within reach at the end. Glock punch multitool, ejector rod tool, and screwdrivers as needed.

I’ll do a piecemeal kit of the Glock basics, put it in a box and call it good.

Thanks gang.

[psalms144.1]

My kits (I have two)

Primary - on/under my workbench:
- Caliber specific "tornado" brushes
- Caliber specific cotton mops
- Coated pistol and rifle cleaning rods
- "Gun cleaning" toothbrush
- Plastic dental picks
- Bore patches
- Microfiber cloths
- BIG bottle of MPro7
- Big bottle of SLIP EWL oil
- countless small containers of various "flavor of the day" greases
- Giant piles of diassembly tools for various flavors of pistols, Brownell's big ("Master or something like that) gunsmithing bit kit and screw driver

Range - in my range bag, in a quart size ziplock bag:
- Three bore snakes - 9mm, .223, and .45
- Plastic tooth brush
- one microfiber cloth
- one small bottle of CLP
- Brownell's "stubby" magnetic screw driver handle and a portable bit kit (don't remember the make, but it was inexpensive and from Amazon)

If my house burned down and I had to clean all my surviving guns with what's in the range bag, I wouldn't feel at all unprepared.

[titsonritz]

Not one mention of Hoppes #9

What are kidding? I wouldn't waste that shit cleaning guns, it is my cologne of choice.

[Outpost75]

Old School LEO DA Revolver Field Cleaning Kit - Rev3- 7 Feb 2018

Thanks to FBI Academy and FLETC instructor cadre who have offered their most recent edits and suggestions, which are now incorporated here:
This is an email I wrote responding to a youngster who inherited his Dad's old "cop gun" who asked what he needed for routine cleaning. I thought my reply would be of general interest so am starting a new thread here. While this list is oriented towards an S&W revolver, it works with Colts, Rugers or auto pistols with few gun-specific mods being required if specific tools are recommended.

-------------- Original query deleted to protect privacy of the innocent -------------

I was taught old school revolver and dislike aerosols, so I don’t use them. Their propellant causes moisture condensation on the gun, they are expensive for the amount of product and waste far too much in product in dispensing.

For general cleaning and lubrication I like Kano Kroil Brownell’s 471-100-008WB Kroil Pour Can or Ed's Red. If you don't want to mix your own, buy blended professionally from Brownell's. 083-150-001WB 4 oz. "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...prod19936.aspx

Avoid storing a revolver wrapped in any cotton cloth, because it attracts moisture. I use these to wipe guns carried as EDC daily, and to wrap them up after cleaning and before casing to secure in locked container for travel or longer term storage: https://countycomm.com/collections/v...ro-fiber-cloth

Don’t store a revolver in a leather holster either, because the leather attracts moisture and long-term causes corrosion. If not routinely carrying, inspecting and wiping sweat and dirt off a handgun daily as EDC I store small revolvers or pocket autos in a Maratec zippered PVC pouch which doesn’t look like a gun case: https://countycomm.com/collections/p...epellant-pouch

My field cleaning gear goes into a small Cordura one: https://countycomm.com/collections/p...hes-by-maratac
Recommended field cleaning gear to keep in the small Maratec zipper pouch:

Dewey 4” loop brass pistol rod, Brownell’s 234-000-070WB
Brass loop patch holder .38 cal. /9mm Brownell’s 084-000-217WB
Two Dewey COTTON bore mops for CLEANING/WIPING, .38 cal. pk. Of 3 749-000-168WB. Can be used for a quick field clean without using patches.
Use one mop to wet the bore before brushing. This avoids dipping a dirty brush into the bore cleaner and contaminating it. Use the wet cotton mop again after brushing to remove loosened crud. Use a different dry mop to soak up excess excess solvent before oiling the gun lightly and putting it away.

One Brownell’s double-tuff bore brush .38 cal./9mm in kit, pack of 3 084-142-137WB

One Brownell’s WOOL bore mop for OILING .38 cal./9mm in kit, pk. Of 3 084-415-037WB

Brownell’s gun parts cleaning brush 676-450-001WB
Or travel toothbrush https://countycomm.com/collections/v...vel-toothbrush

Brownell’s S&W revolver screwdriver bits only combo pack for S&W 080-087-002WB

Brownell’s Compact Magnetic LE screwdriver handle 080-089-006WB

Brownell’s needle oilers 3 pk. 084-000-361WB, allocated as below:

Bottle 1 - Kroil or Ed’s Red bore cleaner – ID by RED color when filled,
Bottle 2 - USP H1 food grade mineral oil for lubrication - ID easily because contents are CLEAR
Bottle 3 - Isopropyl alcohol to rinse mops and brushes after use. The "crud" falls to the bottom and will stay there.

The implement dries quickly and is ready to go for the next range cleaning session. Alcohol is cheap (about a buck for a bottle), and it takes a while for the alcohol to foul to the point where it needs to be replaced. You will notice that brushes and mops last a lot longer using this process.

Alternately some people use clear mineral spirits in the extra bottle before washing them with hot soapy water in the motel sink if out on the road. This gets the implements cleaner, but they take longer to dry. But professional armorer's advice is to ALWAYS clean used mops for a cleaner gun!
Some people use a .40 cal. NYLON heavy-duty bore brush (Brownell's 084-444-017WB) .40/.41/10mm Pistol, 3 Pk) just for cleaning .38/.357 revolver CHAMBERS. This is a good idea when firing more than 100 rounds of wadcutter ammo between cleanings. The nylon .40 cal. brush canalso be used as expedient bore brush without harm.

If firing .38 Special lead bullet ammunition in revolvers with .357 chambers (Brownell's stainless steel CHAMBER brush 084-455-137WB .38/.357 per 3) does a better job of removing lead deposits from CHAMBERS, used with Kroil, but SHOULD NOT BE USED IN THE BORE!

Norton UCS plastic scraper/cleaning stick, is non-scratching and great for getting encrusted fouling out of the nooks and crannies around the revolver barrel extension, the frame window or auto pistol slide face. MUCH better than the sharpened wooden Popsicle sticks we used to use in my time! https://countycomm.com/collections/v...cleaning-stick

For routine lubrication I use only ordinary USDA H1 rated pure USP mineral oil from the drug store, applied with patch, toothpick, Q-tip or eye dropper. Good read on subject. Most "gun lubes" are expensive "snake oil".

http://www.grantcunningham.com/2012/...-on-your-guns/

[JonInWA]

Army style metal 3 piece rod with moveable/foldable handle;

Slotted end piece for holding patches

Bronze bush in specified caliber and/or one caliber larger

Firearm-specific lubricant (freely admitting that might be overkill); currently using Lucas Extreme Gun Oil, also like Steel Shield Weapon Shield

Water-base bore cleaner (keeps spouse happier), Mil-Comm MC25

Grease (TW25B and/or Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2)

Cloth patches-I generally get the larger 3" square 12 gauge patches, which work fine, or cut in half as needed)-.22 patches for .22/223/5.56

Lead-Away patches for removing GSR from stainless revolver cylinder face, frame window

Q-Tips

Old t shirts for wiping oil off

Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth for surface protection, especially for blued finish guns

Renaissance Wax for blued gun protection (but the Tuf-Cloth is easier to use)

Bag to keep everything together

Caliber-specific stainless Tornado brush for revolver chambers or when shooting lead

Chore Boy copper pad for really getting old lead out (shred strands and wrap around bronze brush)

Apron (precludes staining favorite shirts, pants, etc)

Brownells gunsmithing screwdriver set

Small mixed screwdriver set

Light tube for bore, chamber examination

Brass flat end and brush end tool (great for scraping off accumulated carbon on/near feedramps

Chamber brush(s) (the Wilson one for .45 ACP is great)

Lens pen, microfiber cloth, camera lens solvent and lens cleaning paper for cleaning RDS glass

Small flashlight (or cell phone light)

Best, Jon

[Coyotesfan97]

I find that cleaning a revolver needs more than a bore snake, especially when shooting lead bullets. I can't get the build-up at the end of the chamber with anything other than a chamber brush. OTOH, even when shooting lead bullets, a bore brush does a decent job in an autoloader, assuming that the bullets fit the bore.

ETA: That's when it's really funky. When there's not a lot of build-up, I use a bore snake too.

Now I’m having flashbacks about cleaning my Model 66 after a long range day at the Academy knowing there’d be a pistol inspection the next day. IIRC I used a 41 brush for the chambers. I used lead removal cloth too clean the front of the cylinder. Brush the barrel and use a jag to push the cloth through the barrel. The forcing cone area alway sucked cleaning. Did I mention the range used reloads with lead bullets and dirty powder?

After cleaning the pistol it was time to polish the duty belt. Range days usually added 2-3 hours to prep for the next day.

[CarloMNL]

Kits are generally a waste of money, one piece I want and a bunch I don't. Rather than buy your buddy a kit, give the gift of knowledge and show him how to use this list.

rod/brush it came with
old toothbrush
whatever CLP
maybe a boresnake
shop towels/q-tips

For a Glock, this is all I've needed when shooting jacketed bullets. If the only ammo available is coated or bare lead, I need a better rod, a bronze brush, and some Chore Boy.