Help - remove set screw w/ Loctite 272 on it

[JCN]

This is the brûlée torch I use.

$15 currently.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sondiko-Cul...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Nice adjustability of flame size and intensity. Works well for finesse work.

Also good for softening and molding kydex.

[GyroF-16]

In my experience the soldering iron is pissing in the wind. You have a lot of steel there which is dissipating that heat faster than your dinky soldering iron can manage. You need combustion. Put a mapp gas torch on it, hold it there till you see smoke from the threads, then hit with an impact driver.

Half measures result in broken screws and rounded heads.

Duly noted. Will be getting my hands on a torch and appropriately-small (3/32”) impact bits before going back at it.

Thanks- I appreciate the benefits of experience on this forum.

[GyroF-16]

Duly noted. Will be getting my hands on a torch and appropriately-small (3/32”) impact bits before going back at it.

Thanks- I appreciate the benefits of experience on this forum.

Well, I’ve been defeated…
- 3 applications of bsi Un-Cure
- More than 2 minutes with a 2,000+ deg butane torch
- And an impact driver

…left me with a hex-head set screw with rounded-off hex surfaces that will no longer engage a hex bit.

Next steps?

I’m thinking I’ll need to take it to my local gunsmith, along with a new gas block to install.
Is it reasonable to expect them to be able to drill out the set screw with the latitude to damage the existing gas block, without damaging the barrel?
Or send back to PSA to have the gas block replaced (since it leaked when delivered, and after my removal and reinstallation).
But I’m not sure how they’d treat a red Loctited, stripped set screw…

Part of me just wants to take advantage of this situation to replace the barrel and gas system with this one from Black River
https://blackrivertactical.com/WP/BR...BLK-p440556374

(Thanks for the suggestion, @Default.mp3)

But doing that would cost more than when I bought the whole (cheap) upper from PSA.
The existing PSA barrel seems to give me nice-enough accuracy at 25 yds (a low bar, I know.
But I do like the idea of a high quality chrome lined barrel on a gun that sometimes sits for months, uncleaned, between uses.

What are the opinions from the group?

[littlejerry]

Well, I’ve been defeated…
- 3 applications of bsi Un-Cure
- More than 2 minutes with a 2,000+ deg butane torch
- And an impact driver

…left me with a hex-head set screw with rounded-off hex surfaces that will no longer engage a hex bit.

Next steps?

I’m thinking I’ll need to take it to my local gunsmith, along with a new gas block to install.
Is it reasonable to expect them to be able to drill out the set screw with the latitude to damage the existing gas block, without damaging the barrel?
Or send back to PSA to have the gas block replaced (since it leaked when delivered, and after my removal and reinstallation).
But I’m not sure how they’d treat a red Loctited, stripped set screw…

Part of me just wants to take advantage of this situation to replace the barrel and gas system with this one from Black River
https://blackrivertactical.com/WP/BR...BLK-p440556374

(Thanks for the suggestion, @Default.mp3)

But doing that would cost more than when I bought the whole (cheap) upper from PSA.
The existing PSA barrel seems to give me nice-enough accuracy at 25 yds (a low bar, I know.
But I do like the idea of a high quality chrome lined barrel on a gun that sometimes sits for months, uncleaned, between uses.

What are the opinions from the group?

That's a real bummer. Sorry it didn't work out, but sometimes that's the way it goes.

The screw can be drilled or you can just cut the block off.

Depending on the smith it might cost enough that you should just get a new barrel. BRT is a good option. I own a 12.5 5.56 from them and have a shooting buddy with both their 12.5 and 14.5. Good products

[JCN]

Well, I’ve been defeated…
- 3 applications of bsi Un-Cure
- More than 2 minutes with a 2,000+ deg butane torch
- And an impact driver

…left me with a hex-head set screw with rounded-off hex surfaces that will no longer engage a hex bit.

Next steps?

What are the opinions from the group?

Okay. These are the two things that have worked for me in the past. I’m not sure how small the set screw is so I don’t know the actual part numbers that will work so you might have to confirm things aren’t too large.

Option 1: Square head bit. Has more torque than a hex head. Tapered head helps also.
In escalating order (you can skip to the highest escalation if you want).



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08HX...haWwp13NParams

Take a small hammer and tap a slightly oversized bit head into the rounded hole. Pound it in as far as it’ll go. The tapping also helps free the thread. And then using a brisk snapping motion try and unscrew it.

If that doesn’t work, then drill down deeper and pound the bit in further. Might allow you to use a larger bit as well.

This approach has worked very well for me. The only question is whether the set screw is too small to fit the square head.


Option 2: use a reverse threaded extractor bit.



It comes with the appropriate sized drills to fit the extractor. Because they’re reverse threaded and dig in, you can use the same drill to spin it off.

https://www.amazon.com/Be91eiter-Ext...NsaWNrPXRydWU=


In my hands the easy option #1 without drilling unless the hole is too small has worked very well for me in the past. I have both types of tools…. Because I love tools.

[GyroF-16]

Thanks, @JCN. I’ll try the square bit idea with bits on hand.
And I’ve ordered the extractor bit set.
I’d certainly rather address this myself than pay someone to do it.
I’ve also ordered a BCM gas block and a gas tube to replace the one that I may well damage while removing.
And the old one leaked, and sourcing new set screws would be a pain…

Oh, and I have Rocksett on hand now, so no more Red Loctite on set screws.

[JCN]

Thanks, @JCN. I’ll try the square bit idea with bits on hand.
And I’ve ordered the extractor bit set.
I’d certainly rather address this myself than pay someone to do it.
I’ve also ordered a BCM gas block and a gas tube to replace the one that I may well damage while removing.
And the old one leaked, and sourcing new set screws would be a pain…

Oh, and I have Rocksett on hand now, so no more Red Loctite on set screws.

Try to put it on a bench block on top of something hard when you pound it in to try and get the edges of the bit to dig in.

[littlejerry]

Try to put it on a bench block on top of something hard when you pound it in to try and get the edges of the bit to dig in.

A bench vise helps a lot with this type of work.

[Skinner Precision, LLC]

I usually have about 50% success rate extracting screws in this condition by drilling out the screws with the spindle in reverse on the mill and a sharp drill bit. If this doesn't work, carbide end mill next size up and plunge through the screw till it leaves this mortal coil as a pile of chips.

sending PM.