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Thread: Skipping chambers again

  1. #21
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    Aug 2017
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    So

    I've been trying to figure this out by cycling it fast. Well I tried going slow and found that if you cock the hammer the cylinder doesn't turn enough and the stop doesn't fully seat. If I move the cylinder a c-hair further it drops in.

    By going a little faster the cylinders momentum is enough for normal function and when cycling fast it skips.

    So Im thinking either the ratchet or hand or both???

  2. #22
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    So you have two problems.

    Failure to carry up can come from wear on the hand window, the hand, the ratchet, and the frame center pin hole. The easiest of these to replace is the hand. Be sure to do this test with cases in the cylinder, as they limit the over-rotation of the extractor relative to the cylinder. Just putting cases in it might be enough to solve the problem.

    Failure of the cylinder stop to catch the notches at speed is a separate problem. Having eliminated dirt and a weak spring, I'd go back to looking carefully at peening of the notches and stop.

    Some benos discussion:

    https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/1...skip-chambers/

    In particular, stoning off the burr at the bottom of the lead-in ramps is on my list of SOP prep before ever going to the range or doing dry fire beyond function checks. On my GP, it made an audible difference in the solidity with which the cylinder is caught and stops. Rather than a "tick-chunk," it's just a "chunk." Also, the progression in peening of the cylinder notches has stopped completely since I got rid of those burrs. I also did it on the blackened stainless cylinder of my M&P 340. Very carefully, to minimize the bright edge left (that won't take cold blue), but I did it and would do it again.

    If you adjust the cylinder stop to raise its position, pay attention to its engagement with the frame window as you slowly cycle it with the side plate off. You don't want to give up that engagement, as reducing the contact area between stop and window risks peening the window, and that will get ugly quickly.

    I picked up some light springs from my local Ace Hardware to allow me to cycle the action safely with the sideplate off and not risk damaging the hammer stud due to it being unsupported. On a K/L/N, that will work for the rebound slide. Maybe a light rubber band around the stirrup or something for the hammer? You can do a lot of the cylinder timing checks without the hammer in the gun.
    .
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    Not another dime.

  3. #23
    Member jtcarm's Avatar
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    Jul 2018
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    I’m normally a DIYer, but I gather you’ve run that gun hard and with a lot of magnums.

    I’d say it’s time to send it to a good revolver-smith.

  4. #24
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
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    Northern Rockies
    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    So

    I've been trying to figure this out by cycling it fast. Well I tried going slow and found that if you cock the hammer the cylinder doesn't turn enough and the stop doesn't fully seat. If I move the cylinder a c-hair further it drops in.

    By going a little faster the cylinders momentum is enough for normal function and when cycling fast it skips.

    So Im thinking either the ratchet or hand or both???
    OJ made some good points.

    Keep in mind that the later Smiths are supposed to have cases in them when checking carry up.

    Also keep in mind that the common protocol for recent Smiths is to replace the ratchet star to correct carry up, not refit a hand.

    I agree the skipping is a separate issue, but work to correct one at a time to be 100% certain.
    “Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
    ― Theodore Roosevelt

  5. #25
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    I'll call s&w tomorrow to see if I can get an extractor

  6. #26
    Site Supporter FrankB's Avatar
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    S&W is closed until the end of August, but you can gain extractor here: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1648560

    ETA My new 686+ had factory cut extractor ratchets that looked like they’d been shaped with a hatchet. I asked Dave Olhasso about it, and he said the same factory guy would probably just butcher them up again. S&W told me that they’d send a free extractor, but they were out of stock. I finally bought a cylinder/extractor combo from Midwest Gun Works, and Dave did a very nice job with it. I received a package from S&W a year later, and it was the extractor!
    Last edited by FrankB; 08-02-2022 at 07:48 PM.

  7. #27
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    I'll call s&w tomorrow to see if I can get an extractor

    I looked a few days ago, Midway had some in stock for about $31.
    “Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
    ― Theodore Roosevelt

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by FrankB View Post
    S&W is closed until the end of August, but you can gain extractor here: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1648560

    ETA My new 686+ had factory cut extractor ratchets that looked like they’d been shaped with a hatchet. I asked Dave Olhasso about it, and he said the same factory guy would probably just butcher them up again. S&W told me that they’d send a free extractor, but they were out of stock. I finally bought a cylinder/extractor combo from Midwest Gun Works, and Dave did a very nice job with it. I received a package from S&W a year later, and it was the extractor!
    The 7-shot L-frame extractors (686+) are still fit by a person, for reasons known only to S&W. They do it the old way AFAIK with a barette file but they don't do them to the standards from S&W's better years.

    The 6-shot K/L frame extractors (e.g. 66) are drop-in parts since around 1992-ish. So if you've got a problem with a 6-shot K/L the parts are available and it's a DIY affair. If you've got a problem with a 7-shot L then you've got an actual gunsmithing problem.

  9. #29
    Two close ups of two leftover 686+ cylinders. The first one came off a gun made around `99 or so. The second one came off a much more recent, post-lock gun. Most of the newer production 686+ cylinders I've either owned or handled looked more like the latter than the former.

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    Name:  cyl1a.jpg
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    You can see on the latter gun where the metal flashing was left in place on the extractor teeth after the actual bearing surfaces were "close enough" and where there was less concern about burying the barette file into the base of the extractor..

    edit: unfit 7-shot extractor for reference

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  10. #30
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malamute View Post
    I looked a few days ago, Midway had some in stock for about $31.

    Ordered

    Thanks guys

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