With the new extractor in the hammer won't lock back for SA or drop in DA.
I can skip 2 of the chambers
With the new extractor in the hammer won't lock back for SA or drop in DA.
I can skip 2 of the chambers
You might have some binding, as in not enough clearance for the hand. I discuss that in my post/thread on unkittening my M&P340. It's also covered in the Kuhnhausen manual. Sounds like you're ready to own that.
.
-----------------------------------------
Not another dime.
I remember that S&W armorer kits contained a couple 4 inch Barrette files. These are tapered with safe edges on back and sides. Coarseness numbers on such files increase from 0 on up. O is most coarse. I think the kit had numbers 1 and 2. Amazon has these. Midway also offers files. Smith files in the kits I saw were Nicholson brand. Grobet is another good brand. Perhaps a member with a factory kit will provide pictures.
Most know that hand thickness and not length contact the ratchet to move the cylinder. It goes without saying that checking for and removing burrs from the new part is one action. Look at the tips of the extractor to check clearance with cylinder. Also miking the two parts might reveal a clue. Hand alignment is checked by spinning the cylinder and listening for clicks--singing. Incorrect alignment can cause the hand to move rearward resulting in failure to rotate. I wonder if this might affect dropping of hammer due to binding.
In Colt revolvers the tip of the extractor contacts the extractor.
Both of those are pretty horribly f'ed up. The fitted surfaces are badly angled top to bottom. The surface the hand bears against should be aligned with the axis of the cylinder, just like all the machined surfaces. And it should be parallel to a line that goes through the ejector arm at the bottom, through the center pin hole, and through the center of the chamber aligned with the barrel. That's the angle of the side of the hand, and you want the flat on the side of the hand to bear against a nice, smooth, parallel flat on the ratchet when it's in lockup. Anything else only leaves a line or even a point of contact, which will wear out of time prematurely. I'd want to start with the new one and get it right. Two smooth and parallel flats will stay in time for a good, long while.Originally Posted by jh9
The tool I used is a "pillar file." I have thrown some money at fleabay sellers of NOS files from before the Death of Quality. The file leaves the surface a little rough; I very carefully stoned it after I'd gotten close with the filing.
While you're at it, smoothing the "non-working" edge of the ratchet tooth that the hand drags across on trigger release (and the corresponding surface of the hand) does noticeably affect the smoothness of the reset, once you are chasing the last bits of suck out of things.
.
-----------------------------------------
Not another dime.
I don't think you're going to find a factory 7-shot extractor done better than the top one. It's a dirty part, sure, but I've never seen one cut better from the factory. The punchline there is the second part which while functional (as shipped) is just... gnarly looking. Honestly I've seen some vaunted pre-war guns with hand-fit 6-shot extractors that were pretty rough too. Including 1930s era This Is What Peak S&W Looks Like. And the mistakes look very similar.
The modern CNC cut 6-shot drop in extractors are a boon. There are better ways than the factory way to cut a 7-shot extractor. Send a cylinder with an uncut extractor to TK custom and look at what they send back. Different from OEM, and probably better in every way.
I should dig mine (7 shot cylinder) out and look at it. I tried a 7 shot 686 cyl in an early 586, it dropped in with zero fitting or other changes, it times exactly like the 6 shot one did, even to one single chamber being just slightly lazy in carrying up when under tension.
I tend to carefully deburr the rough edges of extractor ratchets, it helps the cylinder spin smoother and more freely. The ones pictured are rougher than any Ive had.
TK used to do action jobs, my dad had several done by him and they were very nice.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
Now I'm wondering if it's the hand torsion spring.
I was messing around after work last night and the hand was not as positive as the one in my m65.
Unfortunately the trigger pin sizes aren't the same so I could swap triggers to really find out.
A 0.92 hand is working better but there's 2 chambers it will only drop a hammer on if you squeeze the trigger like you're trying to choke it unless the gun is held gangster then it works 100% of the time.
Someone on the S&W forum was having a similar issue, and I’ve heard this sort of info before:
In a panic situation, the hand could skip by a ratchet, and the gun won't fire.
Press trigger back enough to clear the cylinder stop, then spin cylinder. Listen for the hand clicking on the ratchets.
Press back and left = Left sing
Press back and right = Right sing
Press back straight = Neutral sing
If your right handed you normally pull the trigger to the right.
If no right sing: Bend hand over to right side of the window. To do this simply insert screwdriver underneath the hand and lift upward.
If no left sing: You will have to remove hand and tap it with a hammer to bend the hand over to the left side of the window.
The third way it could be out, where you can't correct the right or left sing, the hand is twisted.
Ideally, you want the gun to sing no matter how the trigger is pulled. New guns may not be adjusted proper, either. Check yours for fun...
OK I'll try and clarify this...
While you hold an empty revolver in your hand, lightly press on the trigger, just enough to disconnect the cylinder stop. Keep this pressure for this test.
Now press the trigger to the right or left then press it straight back. (In doing this you will discover the trigger has side-to-side slop in it. The slop in the trigger is also affecting the hand attached to it)
As the hand is bending along with the trigger, this is why sometimes left hand shooters have "timing" problems and when someone else looks at the gun it seems fine.
What I am trying to show (tough in print) is the adjustment procedure to correct this condition.
To correct the hand and make it neural, is to slightly bend the hand pin either left or right depending on the way it sings. This will adjust the hand sitting in it's slot.
For example, holding the gun with your right hand, "Press trigger back enough to clear the cylinder stop, then spin cylinder with your left hand. (Don't lessen the pressure on the trigger) Listen for the clicking sound from the ratchets, (sing). Kind of like in the western movies when they spin the cylinder...
hope this makes sense.
Well that's interesting
Reply With Quote