Wiley Clapp Ruger Revolver Cleanup help needed

[Zeke38]

Bought a WC GP100 3" barrel in the gray finish a few days ago. We went to the range this morning. Shot fine, nice revolver. Carbon residue all over the front of the cylinder and rear of barrel. Tried gun scrubber and it did not go well on the "rough" gray finish. Bore and cylinder chambers was an easy clean up. Had to use CLP and lots of scrubbing to get the carbon residue off. To those of you who own a brother to this flame throwing beast what do you use to clean the exterior of your weapon. Thanks for the help!

[OlongJohnson]

By rough gray, I assume you mean the brushed stainless.

I throw a couple kitchen paper towels in the range bag and wipe the soot off my GP as soon as I'm done shooting it, while it's still warm. Comes right off with a dry paper towel, even when it's built up black on the outside of the cylinder. Bore snake through the chambers and occasionally the barrel. Front of the cylinder and forcing cone won't come clean with the paper towel, so from time to time I use a lead-away cloth to wipe it. Doesn't have to be shiny, just don't want it building up and binding rotation.

Once it cools, the carbon cross links and you'll be scrubbing with chemicals to get it off.

[rathos]

Green kitchen scrub pads (like the ones off the top of a sponge) and oil works really well on mine.

[okie john]

These work on stainless: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/klee...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Do NOT use them on blued guns--they will remove the finish.


Okie John

[gato naranja]

Bought a WC GP100 3" barrel in the gray finish a few days ago. We went to the range this morning. Shot fine, nice revolver. Carbon residue all over the front of the cylinder and rear of barrel. Tried gun scrubber and it did not go well on the "rough" gray finish. Bore and cylinder chambers was an easy clean up. Had to use CLP and lots of scrubbing to get the carbon residue off. To those of you who own a brother to this flame throwing beast what do you use to clean the exterior of your weapon. Thanks for the help!

That's Ruger's "Target Gray" matte finish, right? If so, it may be kind of a PITA to keep clean based on local examples of other Rugers. I will echo the idea of wiping things off while shooting or immediately afterward to make life easier. One guy here thinks "Ed's Red" is the answer to all things, including Target Gray" finishes, but he does not go overboard trying to clean "burn ring" discoloration.

The problem with "lead-away" or "lead remover" cloths is that all of them on the market that I am aware of do contain an abrasive component. It might be very fine... maybe even "ultra" fine... but it will be there.

[OlongJohnson]

Green kitchen scrub pads (like the ones off the top of a sponge) and oil works really well on mine.

I looked up the WC matte finish. It's likely a media blasted surface, so anything that would scratch it will mess it up good.

Even on a brushed finish, I would judge green Scotch-Brite to be too aggressive. I'd use the light blue or grey if I had to go there, and be very careful to match the direction of the factory brushing. Even at that, it's very easy to disrupt the appearance of the factory brushed finish and create obvious differences.

The lead-away cloth is the lowest-risk abrasive and known to work well on stainless, including its chemistry.

[farscott]

Rather than using abrasives, fine or not, to get the revolver spotlessly clean, just keep it clean, functioning, and well lubricated. A little carbon, while unsightly, will do no harm. Repeatedly scrubbing carbon rings from the front of the cylinder and forcing cone will do harm. It will be minor at first, only a little more barrel to cylinder gap, but the wear does no good. No need to do damage in the name of cleanliness.

Wipe it off when warm, clean off anything that impacts function, but do not polish away metal.

[awp_101]

I kid, I kid…😁

[rathos]

You are welcome to your opinion, but I actually own that gun and use the green scotch brite with no issues.

I looked up the WC matte finish. It's likely a media blasted surface, so anything that would scratch it will mess it up good.

Even on a brushed finish, I would judge green Scotch-Brite to be too aggressive. I'd use the light blue or grey if I had to go there, and be very careful to match the direction of the factory brushing. Even at that, it's very easy to disrupt the appearance of the factory brushed finish and create obvious differences.

The lead-away cloth is the lowest-risk abrasive and known to work well on stainless, including its chemistry.

[Zeke38]

Pardon my poor attempt at communication. It is the dark carbon on the body of the cylinder and on the outside of the barrel that is so unsightly. I use a brass brush and CLP for forcing cone, barrel and cylinder charge holes and cylinder face. Appreciate all the responses. This is a different, rougher texture than the Target grey I had on a GP 20 years ago. Just different metal prep on this WC model I assurme. The earlier Target Grey was smooth, very smooth.