LTT 92 RDO Dead Trigger Question

[dogcaller]

I recently purchased an LTT RDO slide to go with my newish LTT 92G, as my first foray into RDO pistols. I mounted the SRO, following the LTT directions meticulously. Last weekend I took a local 1-day RDO class and have a total of ~400 rds through the RDO slide. After the class I went to the range to practice presentations and noticed that both my RDO *and* the plate were loose. My paint marks demonstrated that one of the screws had backed off and I was also able to wiggle the plate independent of the SRO. I called LTT and they advised me to go ahead and remove and remount, following degrease procedures and using Blue Loctite instead of the (LTT recommended and provided) Vibratite. ( I did read the PF thread about mounting RDO and saw that Blue Loctite was recommended, but I wanted to follow LTT instructions exactly for this first time).

I reassembled, following Loctite instructions and let cure for 24 hrs--but I failed to dryfire. Went to the range this morning to re-zero and the hammer would not fall , SA or DA. The hammer travels and cocks, but does not fall. I called LTT again and they said I must have a fouled firing pin/channel and I will need to send it in, unless I know how to disassemble the LTT RDO slide (I do not). I asked if they had an instructional video, or one they can vouch for, and they said to check YT for one with "good reviews." Since I do not know how to do this they advised that I will need to send it in to LTT, because it probably just needs to be disassembled and cleaned/lubed. I also have my original LTT slide which works perfectly, but they want me to send the entire pistol, so they can test fire.

This is pretty frustrating. I have some things happening this weekend that I was really hoping to have the gun for. I had previously watched LTT video about cleaning and Ernest certainly didn't make it sound like a detail strip would be required every 500 rds. I'm a big fan of Ernest and LTT, and I recognize they can't see the gun through the phone... They were polite and professional. Just wondering if anyone can think of something I can do to avoid needing to ship the gun out? Is there something I might be missing...?

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

I recently purchased an LTT RDO slide to go with my newish LTT 92G, as my first foray into RDO pistols. I mounted the SRO, following the LTT directions meticulously. Last weekend I took a local 1-day RDO class and have a total of ~400 rds through the RDO slide. After the class I went to the range to practice presentations and noticed that both my RDO *and* the plate were loose. My paint marks demonstrated that one of the screws had backed off and I was also able to wiggle the plate independent of the SRO. I called LTT and they advised me to go ahead and remove and remount, following degrease procedures and using Blue Loctite instead of the (LTT recommended and provided) Vibratite. ( I did read the PF thread about mounting RDO and saw that Blue Loctite was recommended, but I wanted to follow LTT instructions exactly for this first time).

I reassembled, following Loctite instructions and let cure for 24 hrs--but I failed to dryfire. Went to the range this morning to re-zero and the hammer would not fall , SA or DA. The hammer travels and cocks, but does not fall. I called LTT again and they said I must have a fouled firing pin/channel and I will need to send it in, unless I know how to disassemble the LTT RDO slide (I do not). I asked if they had an instructional video, or one they can vouch for, and they said to check YT for one with "good reviews." Since I do not know how to do this they advised that I will need to send it in to LTT, because it probably just needs to be disassembled and cleaned/lubed. I also have my original LTT slide which works perfectly, but they want me to send the entire pistol, so they can test fire.

This is pretty frustrating. I have some things happening this weekend that I was really hoping to have the gun for. I had previously watched LTT video about cleaning and Ernest certainly didn't make it sound like a detail strip would be required every 500 rds. I'm a big fan of Ernest and LTT, and I recognize they can't see the gun through the phone... They were polite and professional. Just wondering if anyone can think of something I can do to avoid needing to ship the gun out? Is there something I might be missing...?

While guessing over the internet is difficult, the first thing that I would check is if the firing pin block plunger is getting stuck from going up all the way. That would be the thing about the slide that would stop the trigger from moving back that finishing bit to drop the hammer and release the sear. Checking that the firing pin block plunger is able to move up enough with the way the RDO was installed.

You can also verify this possibility by taking the slide off of the frame and seeing if the trigger functions correctly then. (Keep your thumb on the hammer gently to have it guided down slowly when the trigger does work.)

[TCinVA]

Did you remove the grip panels and do anything with any of the parts inside the frame? A badly fitted trigger bar will sometimes manifest failure to drop the hammer...it's doesn't allow the trigger to move far enough to the rear to trip the sear.

If not:

1. Check to make sure the firing pin block moves freely. Strip the slide off the gun and look at the underside of the slide. On the left hand side just about even with the end of the decocking lever there is a piece of metal that looks like a step. That's the firing pin block and it should move freely. If it doesn't, it's possible that thread locker got into the spaces it runs in and is binding it up. If it isn't moving freely you can try applying a little heat to the area to see if it frees up.

2. Check to make sure that the liver which operates the firing pin block is working. On the frame it will be the thin metal lever farthest to the right. It should move up as the trigger is pulled. If it is not moving it will not allow the trigger to travel all the way to the rear to release the hammer.

3. It's also possible that fasteners being used on that gun are out of spec, intruding into spaces between the moving parts in the opening of the top of the slide. It's also possible that some of the custom parts under there aren't aligned just right...but variances in the length of fasteners is one of those common issues nobody talks about. It results in weird problems like this and won't usually be visible until somebody busts out a pair of calipers to do some measuring.

I'm pretty good at working on guns, but I don't mess around with LTT RDO guns because they're essentially a custom gun with parts and procedures I'm not familiar with. Assuming you eliminate 1 and 2 as possibilities, definitely send it back in.

[dogcaller]

Thanks very much, gentlemen. I watched some videos to become more familiar with the internal workings of the 92 and was fortunate to be able to compare it to my non-RDO 92 slide, particularly regarding the firing pin block--you were both on the right track. I did indeed get some Loctite in that channel (I must've used too much and it seeped out of the thread hole and down into the FBP. That seized it up quite well. With judicious scraping with a plastic tool I was able to free it up and get it working, so thanks again!

I'll remount it all in the morning and then rezero the following day. Having spent quite a bit of time scraping leftover threadlocker from the screws, and also having read a thread concerning the potential loss of strength due to reusing these fine screws, I would definitely prefer to just use new each time I have to remount. Are these typically standard length and size? Are some better/stronger than others?

[Caballoflaco]

If you’ll apply the loc tite to the screws and let it set for 20-30 minutes before installing the screws it will help prevent it from flowing into areas that you don’t want it too.

I’m also not sure why companies keep recommending vibratite as an appropriate thread locker for this application.

[TCinVA]

I've generally had better results using vibra-tite than loctite's family of products for optic mounting. I've had red loc-tite fail me more often than vibra-tite.

I think one of the reasons is that vibra-tite gives a little more margin for error. Theoretically it's not as strong, but it's also not depending on essentially complete crystallization to work. I think folks struggle to really clean fasteners and the holes they're going in well enough and likely don't understand that the parts need to be left alone for at least 24 hours after installation to allow that crystallization to occur properly.

I've also noticed that people see a bubble that forms at the top of a blind hole when they try to put thread locker in there and assume it's full...not taking the time to meticulously poke that bubble with something tiny like a toothpick until the bubble bursts and allows the loctite to actually start flowing into the hole. Vibra-tite's more gel like consistency tends to resist that a little bit better.

I think it's just a little more forgiving of errors than the loctite family of thread lockers.

[TCinVA]

Thanks very much, gentlemen. I watched some videos to become more familiar with the internal workings of the 92 and was fortunate to be able to compare it to my non-RDO 92 slide, particularly regarding the firing pin block--you were both on the right track. I did indeed get some Loctite in that channel (I must've used too much and it seeped out of the thread hole and down into the FBP. That seized it up quite well.

It's amazing how poorly loctite can perform on the place where you want it while excess simultaneously works like a champ exactly where you don't want it.