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Thread: The “I need a .45 but do I need a 1911?” thread

  1. #171
    Wood burnin' Curmudgeon CSW's Avatar
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    Perhaps over 10 years ago, I had a Sig P245, the compact 45.
    One of the softest recoils in a 45 I've felt.

    My g36 wasn't bad either.
    The XDS in 45 was brutal on my arthritis.
    "... And miles to go before I sleep".

  2. #172
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    God Bless,

    Brandon

  3. #173
    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Looking at the SA web site, TRP MSRP ranges from $1,695 to $1,780. The Loaded series ranges from $978 to $1,347. What does a TRP give you that isn't on a Loaded? My initial takeaway is that I'd be ok with the Loaded, but I'm probably missing something that the TRP has.
    I've had good luck with the Springfield Trophy Match. It's a TRP, but with adjustable Bo-mar type sights. These are very useful for competition shooting. I pick them up used off Gunbroker for a fraction of new prices. Typically, they have a few boxes of ammo through them. They go for much less than the TRP, being a less sexy model.

    I have a number of higher-end 1911s, and my favorite is a stainless Trophy Match. It just runs, and is reasonably accurate. I also won't cry if I drop it on the gravel at the range.

  4. #174
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWT View Post
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  5. #175
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john c View Post
    I've had good luck with the Springfield Trophy Match. It's a TRP, but with adjustable Bo-mar type sights. These are very useful for competition shooting. I pick them up used off Gunbroker for a fraction of new prices. Typically, they have a few boxes of ammo through them. They go for much less than the TRP, being a less sexy model.

    I have a number of higher-end 1911s, and my favorite is a stainless Trophy Match. It just runs, and is reasonably accurate. I also won't cry if I drop it on the gravel at the range.
    Thanks, I hadn’t thought of a used 1911, as I’m not familiar with “what to look for” in a used one. Having said that, I know many used guns in excellent condition as out there at great prices.

  6. #176
    Do you need a 1911?

    You need a 1911 if:

    1. You want the best trigger of any handgun made. A 1911 trigger can be made to be really really nice.
    2. You want a modular grip. Long or short trigger. Arched or flat mainspring housing. Slim or standard grips.
    3. You want an accurate gun. A 1911 is usually accurate enough, but it can be made to be bullseye accurate. As in laser accurate.
    4. You want a classic firearm. Like classic cars and classic motorcycles, the 1911 is something that doesn't go out of style. If you bought a Pachmayr Combat Special 30 years ago, it would still be relevant today.
    5. You want to tinker and customize. So many parts and accessories to try.
    6. You want a steel gun. It might have a plastic mainspring housing, but generally they are steel and wood grips.
    7. You want to learn about a gun by trouble shooting issues. Magazines, springs, extractor tension, all need attention.
    8. You want to explore the 1911 sub-culture. Go over to 1911forums or 1911addicts.
    9. You want to own a John Browning design. That guy was a genius.
    11. You want the feel of heavy recoil when you shoot. Way better than 9mm. You believe in Thompson-Lagarde and bowling pins.
    12. Because 1911 means America.
    Last edited by DamonL; 06-22-2022 at 08:10 PM.

  7. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    Factory P220-1 mags are generally regarded as uber-reliable, which is one of the nice things about P220s I pointed out earlier. There isn't any question of what mags to use.

    This is the P226 diagram, but I believe the parts John intended to describe were # 19 and #36:

    https://www.sigsauer.com/sig-sauer-s...6-parts-picker

    I've seen both billet and MIM versions of #19 and there are several variants of #36. My recollection is that "circle-dot" versions of #36 are the way to go if you can find them. I'd be interested in a chromoly steel version from the aftermarket.

    There's another post around here where John lays out his recommended maintenance intervals for classic Sigs. I suggest finding it and PDFing it.

    The long-slide, steel-frame versions of the P220 were redesigned and beefed up to handle the additional stresses of 10mm when production was moved to the U.S. The exaggerated beavertail that can be seen on German-made Super Match guns was also reduced, allowing the frame to fit in the IDPA "box." I'm not aware of any of those US-built, steel frame, long-slide guns being chambered for .45 Auto. I've handled them, and they are tanks. I really like the long slide/aluminum frame combo of the Super Match, and a standard-length steel frame P220 or P226 is pretty nice, too. Wish I could find one of those fixed-sight long slides, but John has mentioned in the past that there were only about 75 (if I remember right) made.

    Somewhere on this site, TLG mentioned that he thought the steel-frame Sigs would be amazing, but he wasn't any faster or more accurate through a stage with them than with an aluminum frame gun. Still, an all-steel P226 or P229 in 9mm should be an excellent "old man gun." But that's for another thread.
    Ahh, the locking block; I thought he meant the pinned in breech block in the slide in the older folded slide versions. I was trying to think how that'd break

    I have a 10mm P220 long slide as well as the standard length all steel P220 in 45; admittedly my round count on the 10mm is less than 300 rounds I think...probably around only 500 on the 45 one as well. My 10mm is one of the Reverse Two-Tone Lipsey guns; fixed sights, etc. If it were only a double-stack...if Sig ever came out with a 10mm P227, that might ignite a good bit of interest.

    Anyway, yeah, I could see both the locking block and take down lever having some issues with the all steel frame not having as much "give"...I should dig both of mine out of the safe and catalog what kind of takedown lever and locking blocks they have, hm.

  8. #178
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    CZ has a 45 chambered P10 , have watched local ships for one but so far I have only seen pictures.

  9. #179
    Site Supporter Elwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Thanks, I hadn’t thought of a used 1911, as I’m not familiar with “what to look for” in a used one. Having said that, I know many used guns in excellent condition as out there at great prices.
    I’d wager you have good odds as long as it’s not noticeably modified from stock. If it’s a model you can look up the factory configuration of to compare and be reasonably sure no parts are swapped, chances are good it’s had a few boxes through it and that’s all.

    If you do start browsing used, keep Dan Wesson on your list. If you can find one in your price range, they’re excellent guns for the price. Note - avoid the Vigil series. Nothing wrong with them but they’re all aluminum frame, including the government model, which is somewhat rare.

    ETA - rare being the aluminum framed gov model, not the Vigil, which is actually the easiest example of that configuration to find. Cool gun but probably not what you’re looking for.

  10. #180
    Quote Originally Posted by DamonL View Post
    snip...4. If you bought a Pachmayr Combat Special 30 years ago, it would still be relevant today.
    Very much this.

    I have fond memories of the 1911A1 in .45 ACP, including winning more than a little lunch money from unsuspecting rubes and getting myself out of a tight spot on a summer evening 30 years ago in a parking lot in downtown Seattle. These days, a Clark or Pachmayr 1911 with a satin-nickel frame and a blued slide is about the only reason I'd pick a 45 ACP for anything other than a very specialized deer hunt in the San Juan Islands.


    Okie John
    “The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
    "Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's

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