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Thread: 5 Shot Leather SME

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Irelander;[URL="tel:1364170"
    1364170[/URL]]So I've been wondering about this. If you use a leather holster with longer muzzle length than the gun, does the extra leather at the muzzle end up being compromised and collapse? Seems to me like it would, which is why I figured Kydex was the only way to go for extra length holsters.
    I ran a 26 in a SME built for a 17 for a while with no issues. I asked John the same question before I bought mine and he said it might collapse a little bit but it did not at all. That leather is STIFF. My favorite leather rigs for sure.

  2. #22
    Member Cool Breeze's Avatar
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    I don't have the SME but have saw it on a buddy of mine. It looks like it rides very low - like so low you can't get a full firing grip on the gun easily. Can anyone comment?

  3. #23
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    My 1911 SME is hands down the best 1911 holster I have ever worn. Yeah, my middle finger dragged my belt. But on timer it was not an issue. Not ideal, but an acceptable trade off, IMHO. I am very,, very much a person to weigh risks,, and stakes,, and my SME is the holster for be everywhere,, do everything.. I understand that Mr. Ralston will do a custom cut for finger clearance, and my new SME has been on order for 25 months, I am waiting patiently, for a reason.

    It may not be ideal, but.it is the best, IMHOP...YMMV

    pat

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cool Breeze View Post
    I don't have the SME but have saw it on a buddy of mine. It looks like it rides very low - like so low you can't get a full firing grip on the gun easily. Can anyone comment?
    On my 1911 SME a softer/more flexible belt was the answer. Can drive 8-10 hours with it, can conceal it under a T-shirt in PHX. And fast. When my new one gets here with the knuckle cut I will post again.

    pat

  5. #25
    Member Cool Breeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UNM1136 View Post
    On my 1911 SME a softer/more flexible belt was the answer. Can drive 8-10 hours with it, can conceal it under a T-shirt in PHX. And fast. When my new one gets here with the knuckle cut I will post again.

    pat
    Looking forward to seeing what it looks like!

  6. #26
    You can also just request a higher ride height belt loop to fix the ride height issue.

  7. #27
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    Alright. Just got it. Even with the knuckle cut, the fit is tight. I have notice my wedding ring is way tight, too, so my fingers are swollen. Have not even threaded the thing on a belt yet. LOVE the TLG stamp on the wing.

    Another reason this has never bothered me is how I train for draws. My mentor was an early devotee of Ron Avery (RIP), and eventually one of his and Bennie Coolie's AIs. He gave me a copy of Ron's Secrets of a Professional Shooter. He is currently a sponsored GM shooter in USPSA.

    In the video, Ron explains, correctly, I believe, that at some point during your drawstrioke you have to touch your gun. Well, duh. Ron taught that the pad of your middle finger touching the frontstrap under the trigger guard should be the kinisiological tactile reference. No matter your start position, the tip of your middle finger should touch the frontstrap under the trigger guard and then you smash and smear your hand down on the backstrap while your fingers curl around the frontstrap. About 60% of my dry work starts with middle finger on the frontstrap under the trigger guard. I find I can get to that position consistently regardless of rising hands, dropping hands, laterally sliding hands, and it works regardless of carry position and gun. I have frequently said, though it will likely get me kilt on the streetz, that I regularly go from OWB Strongside at work, to OWB, IWB, and AIWB, even cross draw when off duty, with TDAs , striker fired,, single actions, DAO revolvers, hell, even last week I was in the woods with my Dad's (RIP) single action .357 revolver in a cowboy rig. It works. I just need 10-15 minutes of dry work to do it.

    It is really a software problem not a hardware problem.

    pat

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