Technical question on S&W 3rd Gens...

[MattyD380]

If you're familiar with Smith 3rd gens, you might know something about the "trigger play spring." It's a tiny little brass leaf spring that tensions the trigger against the drawbar in single action. When it gets loose or bent... you get an annoying click in the SA trigger.

The guns work without it, apparently. You just have more slack/play in the SA takeup. The CHP, for instance, ordered their 4006TSWs without it. But my question is this: If I just rip the little spring out, will the click go away? Or will it get worse? Or stay the same?

The only answer I can get on the Smith Forum is "the guns work without it." No context on how removal of the spring affects the click itself.

This is in reference to a new-to-me 4506-1, by the way. Which is a lovely specimen, save for the trigger play issue.

[Brian T]

My 4506-1 had a broken trigger spring and in SA the trigger would sometimes stick to the rear and I would have to manually push it forward.

I replaced it with a new spring, and Wolff'd the trigger return and hammer springs. Purdy happy.

[farscott]

The trigger play spring, like the name suggests, stops the trigger from moving rearward without any force on the trigger face when the hammer is captured by the single-action notch. It fundamentally provides some tension before the actual trigger engagement occurs. If is is broken, bent, or absent, the trigger will flop around, and it can make a clicking sound. The sound is basically the same if the spring is there but bent or if the spring is broken.

The click really has nothing to do with the spring. The click is usually caused by a condition where the front hooks of the trigger's 'ears', or prongs, have slipped up and forward over the top of the drawbar head's V-notch (in which the prongs normally sit to some degree). The clicking noise is usually heard as the tips of the prongs are being snapped back down over the edge of the drawbar's head at the top of the notch. The large frame (10xx and 45xx), like your sample, are more prone to the issue. [Borrowed from "Fastbolt", a S&W armorer for a CA LE agency at http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smi...ay-spring.html ]

Brownells has the spring at https://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...prod14780.aspx and the rivet at https://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...prod14429.aspx . The rivet is not in stock at Brownells. I did not check Numrich or MidwayUSA.

I would take the spring out as broken pieces of spring can tie up the pistol. It works fine, as noted, without it. But it can make a clicking sound as the trigger moves around without tension unless one replaces the trigger play spring and rivet.

[MattyD380]

The trigger play spring, like the name suggests, stops the trigger from moving rearward without any force on the trigger face when the hammer is captured by the single-action notch. It fundamentally provides some tension before the actual trigger engagement occurs. If is is broken, bent, or absent, the trigger will flop around, and it can make a clicking sound. The sound is basically the same if the spring is there but bent or if the spring is broken.

The click really has nothing to do with the spring. The click is usually caused by a condition where the front hooks of the trigger's 'ears', or prongs, have slipped up and forward over the top of the drawbar head's V-notch (in which the prongs normally sit to some degree). The clicking noise is usually heard as the tips of the prongs are being snapped back down over the edge of the drawbar's head at the top of the notch. The large frame (10xx and 45xx), like your sample, are more prone to the issue. [Borrowed from "Fastbolt", a S&W armorer for a CA LE agency at http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smi...ay-spring.html ]

Brownells has the spring at https://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...prod14780.aspx and the rivet at https://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...prod14429.aspx . The rivet is not in stock at Brownells. I did not check Numrich or MidwayUSA.

I would take the spring out as broken pieces of spring can tie up the pistol. It works fine, as noted, without it. But it can make a clicking sound as the trigger moves around without tension unless one replaces the trigger play spring and rivet.

Gotcha. Thanks for that. Yeah, Fastbolt's posts are pretty much the wellspring of all my 3rd gen knowledge. He's such a resource for people who still have these guns.

So... looks like it will still click even without the spring. Oh well.

Numrich actually has brand new 45XX drawbars with the TPS included/attached. I might just order one of those. I can probably handle swapping out a drawbar. Not sure I wanna deal with rivets. Or, I might just bring it to the Smith down the street with the parts in hand and tell him to do it.

Anyway, thanks again.

[FrankB]

While we’re on the topic, I bought a 5926 two days ago. It looks and shoots like new, but I always wonder about spare parts. The grip is in great shape, but I’m worried that I’ll never find a spare if it breaks from impact or age. Any thoughts?

[UNM1136]

Dunno, but anxiously awaiting input. 3rd gen S&W are kinda important to me...

pat

[FrankB]

Dunno, but anxiously awaiting input. 3rd gen S&W are kinda important to me...

pat

Numrich has all the fiddly little parts needed for maintenance, but nobody seems to have grips.

[MattyD380]

Numrich has all the fiddly little parts needed for maintenance, but nobody seems to have grips.

Are you Frank Butta on YouTube? I’m Hipster Tactical 😁 Hooray for the Internet!

I dunno, keep an eye out on eBay. I remember seeing some 1076 palm swell grips listed a few years ago. But… that was a few years ago. Sometimes you see parts kits come up on Gunbroker, Slinks gun parts, and Every Gun Part. They’re never cheap, though.

In other news…

I was able to move that trigger play spring forward by pushing on it with the hammer decocked. Mostly eliminated the click. Still might order a drawbar, just to have it.

The gun shoots really well, too:



Shot right on POA and grouped well. I’m surprised—I shoot it better than my 645. 100% reliable with factory, reman and that syntec stuff.

[Willard]

Trigger play spring is best adjusted using a pencil eraser so it doesn't break. You can tune it exactly right using this method. If someone needs a spring and rivet, i will send one (only have a couple to spare though).

[FrankB]

@MattyD380 That’s me! I actually carried my 5926 in a DeSantis pocket holster today. The range is only 10 minutes from my home, so I’ll get more shooting time in tomorrow. It ate Sig 124 gr Elite HP’s yesterday, so I’m confident in its ability. Even if it didn’t fire, it would make a fine bludgeoning weapon.

Please watch Hipster Tactical on YouTube. He’s very well spoken guy, and features some great pistols! 👍👍👍👍