Fight Lights

[NH Shooter]

Though there is plenty of discussion on "EDC flashlights" to be found in this forum, the discussion mostly revolves around lights that serve multiple tasks. There has been some discussion on the concept of a "fight light" spread through multiple posts, so my intention is to have a single thread dedicated to the concept, features and use of a fight light.

There will undoubtedly be a range of opinions on the definition of a fight light and what features it should include, as well as features that are perhaps best avoided. So I think the best approach is to post what we each think is the best configuration for a light dedicated entirely to self defense, both with and without a pistol.

Through the "Lego process" I have done extensive experimentation on different configurations. Just when I think I found the ideal setup, I try something different which typically involves purchasing a new component (body, tailcap, etc.) or modification of a component (such as "de-clicking" a McClicky switch to momentary-only operation) and find improvement.

As some background, along with interest in the subject matter also I took the Low Light Pistol Operator course at the Sig Academy here in NH. At this course I had the opportunity to test some of my configurations to see what worked the best. I also got to see first-hand how badly one can fail without a properly configured light for this purpose. There were (for me) five major take-ways from the course;

1. Single output only. I witnessed multiple occasions when someone's programmable light activated in something other than full output.
2. Momentary-only operation. The lights I brought all had clicky switches and there were a handful of times when I inadvertently clicked the switch to constant-on. One of the main themes at the course is the need to have precise control of activating and deactivating the light.
3. Light retention while performing malfunction drills. All my lights were equipped with finger lanyards and for me they work great. Different techniques were taught for retaining the light, such as the armpit hold or simply dropping the light into a pocket. I witnessed many instances of lights hitting the concrete floor, and plenty of fumbling getting the light back into action. For me, the finger lanyard greatly negated these problems.
4. Light ergonomics. Single tailcap switch for activation and deactivation. A light that is easy to grasp and hold. I had one small light with me (single CR123 body) and while easy to carry, was not as easy to get a good hold on and manipulate.
5. The need for candela. As we increased distance from the target, the Malkoff M91T light I had with me (19,000 candela/750 lumens) provided a definite advantage over the Malkoff Bodyguard (12,000 candela/1,000 lumens) at longer distances. The brighter hot spot enabled me to see the target better and perhaps even more importantly, provided increased contrast of the sight picture against the target.

Since that course and based on the knowledge I gained from taking it, I have continued to experiment with different configurations. I have found several that work well, and they all follow the same formula of the five points above.

Here's the latest version that so far has proved the most optimal;




The light weighs 4.4 ounces and is 5-3/8" AOL. The "featureless" design of the body I find easier to get a quick and secure ice pick hold of, while the grip ring keeps the light from sliding forward in my hand as I press the tailcap switch - especially under stress when I tend to mash-down on it with much more pressure than needed (and end up clicking a McClicky switch to constant-on). The Lego build list is as follow;

• Malkoff E2XTD head (650 lumens / 70,000 candela)
• Lumens Factory E2 Classic Gen 1, 2 Cell Flashlight Body
• Lumens Factory E Series E2T Style Tailcap with switch modified for momentary-only operation
• Lumens Factory Grip Ring with a couple of tight-fitting O-rings to help anchor it
• DIY finger lanyard for retention
• Orbtronic 3500mAh 18650 High Drain Rechargeable Battery

I look forward to hearing your thoughts on "fight lights" and what you're using to fill the role.

[Pepper]

NH - I may have asked you once before, but how did you modify the tailcap?

[NH Shooter]

NH - I may have asked you once before, but how did you modify the tailcap?

It took some experimentation and I screwed-up more than a few getting it right - luckily McClicky switches are cheap.

Process is detailed here.

[Pepper]

It took some experimentation and I screwed-up more than a few getting it right - luckily McClicky switches are cheap.

Process is detailed here.

Thanks! I knew that I had seen it someplace.

[Pnut]

Good info! One thing I hate that’s a lot of “tactical” light companies try to push is the strobe feature. Some may disagree with me, but I think it’s useless…. Great for a party, but useless in a real fight.

[AMC]

Based on 30 years of carrying lights in conjunction with guns, training with a lot of well known SMEs over the years (including the Lowlight Instructor Course from Sig Sauer Academy), I came to pretty much the same conclusions. I'm pretty adamant about the single output/momentary only thing. High lumens and high candela, and good ergos....which means a manageable size. I am not a big fan of finger lanyards however. I prefer wrist lanyards if at all. Don't like even the remote possibility of something getting my fingers tangled up and twisted. A properly sized light can still be retained while manipating a pistol for most people's hands, if you know how to do it.

[pastaslinger]

Really like that end result. What are your thoughts on the Travis Haley surefire light? I'm guessing it wouldn't have the candela you want but otherwise hits the same ideas

[NH Shooter]

I am not a big fan of finger lanyards however. I prefer wrist lanyards if at all. Don't like even the remote possibility of something getting my fingers tangled up and twisted.

Noted, and understood.

Most of the time I pull the light out of my pocket by the lanyard but don't insert my fingers in the loop - the lanyard still gives something to capture the light with.

My biggest fear with the lanyard is someone gaining control of the light in a hands-on engagement with my fingers trapped in the lanyard. For this reason I use a small, lightweight split ring as a break-away point between the lanyard and light - pull hard and the ring uncoils and separates the two.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

What are your thoughts on the Travis Haley surefire light?

https://haleystrategic.com/d3ft

Definitely a fan of using the syringe grip/Rogers-Surefire technique. I've configured a few lights that way and like the result;




I find I can pull the light in a syringe grip directly out of my pocket, which makes it wicked quick to get into action. However through a lot of repetitions, I find I'm a bit more bobble-prone using the Rogers-Surefire technique, often requiring some adjustment to reliably activate the light. I find holding a longer light (like the one in my original post) in an ice pick hold, I can acquire a Harries hold bobble-free without fail.

At least for me, I find a pocket clip gets in the way of my grip most of the time even though it's convenient for carry. I wear pants with pockets large enough to easily get my hand in, so I find simple pocket carry sans clip preferable for a fight light.

[UNK]

Another excellent flashlight post. Where do you get the split ring?

Noted, and understood.

Most of the time I pull the light out of my pocket by the lanyard but don't insert my fingers in the loop - the lanyard still gives something to capture the light with.

My biggest fear with the lanyard is someone gaining control of the light in a hands-on engagement with my fingers trapped in the lanyard. For this reason I use a small, lightweight split ring as a break-away point between the lanyard and light - pull hard and the ring uncoils and separates the two.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts!




https://haleystrategic.com/d3ft

Definitely a fan of using the syringe grip/Rogers-Surefire technique. I've configured a few lights that way and like the result;




I find I can pull the light in a syringe grip directly out of my pocket, which makes it wicked quick to get into action. However through a lot of repetitions, I find I'm a bit more bobble-prone using the Rogers-Surefire technique, often requiring some adjustment to reliably activate the light. I find holding a longer light (like the one above) in an ice pick hold, I can acquire a Harries hold bobble-free without fail.

At least for me, I find a pocket clip gets in the way of my grip most of the time even though it's convenient for carry. I wear pants with pockets large enough to easily get my hand in, so I find simple pocket carry sans clip preferable for a fight light.

[DaBigBR]

The more time I put into this, the less concerned I am about momentary lights, particularly momentary only. Fighting in the dark is a massively complicated task and for every person I've seen accidentally click a light on constant, I've seen a dozen have trouble properly aiming the light and/or working the switch because they were too focused on trying to "properly" use momentary light. My current position is that as long as you are doing something useful with the light, it can be on.

My lens is trying to train line level police officers with minimal low light time. The context of the average domestic police shooting says the more light I have down range the more information I can gather, the better decisions I can make, and the more work I can do. We wasted a lot of time (relative to what was available) for a lot of years trying to get guys to work a momentary light optimally and we paid for it in other areas.

I don't much care which switchology you like, but you'd damned well better be proficient with it. Except for strobe...strobe is stupid.