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Thread: OTDefense Grip Fix, anyone do it?

  1. #31
    Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearFondler View Post
    Also, be very careful with the thumb ramp depression area... The frame is Very thin right there and a heavy hand might melt through it.
    Great tips! Thanks!

  2. #32
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    Front and rear strap first

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    Will try and shoot today to see where I would like more grip.

    I’m doing the Wilson Combat thing where the front and rear backstraps are aggressive but the sides aren’t.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by GearFondler View Post
    You will get a better, cleaner pattern if you first grind off the OEM nipples so you are working with a flat surface... That will eliminate the extra plastic oozing around. Just use a drum sander wheel on the Dremel and knock down those nipples... It doesn't have to be pretty or perfect since it all gets covered over.
    I specifically left the factory texture when I have done mine to have as much polymer as possible on the frame. It honestly doesn't matter much with full size mag glocks, but it makes a big difference for sig p365 frames for example.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
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    Will try and shoot today to see where I would like more grip.

    I’m doing the Wilson Combat thing where the front and rear backstraps are aggressive but the sides aren’t.
    That looks pretty good! If you're like me, you'll slowly expand the stippled surface over time though haha.

    I do all sides uniformly then take a rasp or file to the side contacting me in aiwb. I am pretty happy with this but it does take some uncomfortable carry sessions to figure out where I need to go back and work the texture down.

    Also small tip that may not matter much, I take an open flame to the surfaces when I am done to get rid of any strings that might be left and maybe soften any sharp narrow points by melting them down. You don't HAVE to do this, but I have gotten in the habit of it. Obviously don't let the surfaces get to hot, you're just trying to hit the low hanging fruit.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastaslinger View Post
    That looks pretty good! If you're like me, you'll slowly expand the stippled surface over time though haha.

    I do all sides uniformly then take a rasp or file to the side contacting me in aiwb. I am pretty happy with this but it does take some uncomfortable carry sessions to figure out where I need to go back and work the texture down.

    Also small tip that may not matter much, I take an open flame to the surfaces when I am done to get rid of any strings that might be left and maybe soften any sharp narrow points by melting them down. You don't HAVE to do this, but I have gotten in the habit of it. Obviously don't let the surfaces get to hot, you're just trying to hit the low hanging fruit.
    Thanks for the tips! I can use my handy dandy brûlée torch to soften! It’s my go-to for remolding kydex. 👍🏼

  6. #36
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    As someone who has textured a thing or two, I would offer the following:

    1.If the texturing is a bit sharp for you hand or inbound side, it can be smoothed out with a 3m brand sanding sponge/pieces of sandpaper. I default to a 150 or finer and just make a few passes at a time. You can always take or material off, it is really difficult to put material back on.

    2. Lighting in my work space is bright.

    3. Ventilation in my work space is good. If I am doing more than a set or two at a time, I will use a small battery powered camp fan and blow "fumes" past.

    4. I texture with a set of 1.5x or 1.75x magnifying eye pro.

    5. If the "soldering iron" falls off then bench, do not try and catch it...just like a gun or knife.

    6. Generally speaking, go slow, go light with the touch.

    7. Various brands/generations of polymer items behave differently. While practicing on OEM AR grips and Magpul mags has value, # 6 has more.


    The cost/quality/results of that kit seem to exceed the intersection of quality/value/performance. Certainly relative to the fill a a material only to sand it away techniques and the slowly heat the backstrap and press it in techniques I have seen and/or used in the past.
    I am not your attorney. I am not giving legal advice. Any and all opinions expressed are personal and my own and are not those of any employer-past, present or future.

  7. #37
    Hammertime
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Desert Southwest
    This is basic, but I have never been able to identity the G19 “hump”. To me they are the same as a shortened G17 and I have compared them side by side. I simply don’t know what people are talking about saying the G19 and G17 grips differ in any significant way other than length.

    Would someone do me a favor and take a shot of a G19 and circle the “hump?” I feel stupid asking but have even Google searched for it in the past and can’t seem to understand.
    @JCN you sure go in for the arts and crafts! I’m glad it is fun for you. I definitely would never have the patience.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc_Glock View Post
    This is basic, but I have never been able to identity the G19 “hump”. To me they are the same as a shortened G17 and I have compared them side by side. I simply don’t know what people are talking about saying the G19 and G17 grips differ in any significant way other than length.

    Would someone do me a favor and take a shot of a G19 and circle the “hump?” I feel stupid asking but have even Google searched for it in the past and can’t seem to understand.
    @JCN you sure go in for the arts and crafts! I’m glad it is fun for you. I definitely would never have the patience.
    Courtesy of handgun hero overlay.

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    And the “hump” is everything left of the blue line…

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    If you were comparing to a 1911 flat backstrap.

    It gets more nuanced when comparing to a CZ that has some contour.

    Regarding arts and crafts it usually falls into two camps for me:

    Either it’s something that isn’t commercially available (like bullets out front MPX mag pouch) or something that would take a while and unsure of attention to detail (like frame drilling my Czechmates).

    In this case, my MR920 doesn’t quite match up to my CZ index so I didn’t think the DR920 would either. So in order to get 357 Sig in 4.5”+ barrels with a CZ index, this was my solution with what firearms I already owned.

    Figuring that if the index wasn’t right I could build up with polymer and epoxy until it was.

  9. #39
    Hammertime
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Desert Southwest
    @JCN thanks for that. I see a Glock hump, but I don’t see how the 19 is any worse than the 17 which I think is often the complaint. In fact it seems the 17 seems worse. Maybe people don’t like the 19 because it lacks the hump.

  10. #40
    Member GearFondler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc_Glock View Post
    @JCN thanks for that. I see a Glock hump, but I don’t see how the 19 is any worse than the 17 which I think is often the complaint. In fact it seems the 17 seems worse. Maybe people don’t like the 19 because it lacks the hump.
    I think it's less about the amount of hump and more about its position... The 19 is a shorter grip so the hump is further up into one's grip, as in there is less space between the hump and the beavertail when compared to a 17. That in my opinion is what makes the two grips feel so different and for me I vastly prefer the 19 to the 17 because the 19's hump fits my hand better. But every hand is unique.

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