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Thread: Holosun 509T maxxed out elevation

  1. #1

    Holosun 509T maxxed out elevation

    I have a 509T mounted on a gen 5 G19 MOS with C&H plate. I zero at 25 yards and elevation is maxxed out. It’s a little high with 115 grain and higher than that with heavier bullets. Would changing to the Holosun OEM plate which places the optic a little lower help with this? Any other thoughts?

  2. #2
    Site Supporter Oldherkpilot's Avatar
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    Following this because I have 407C that is maxed out, too. 2" high at 50 yards and bottomed out.

  3. #3
    Deadeye Dick Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    That SUCKS. I would try a different plate. The OEM plate is steel, and I think that's a better materials choice than aluminum.
    “There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
    "You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie

  4. #4
    Does lowering the optic help at all?

    Also, I’d be happy with a good 25 yard zero and using a hold at greater distances. 2” high at 50 is awesome to me. I have held at the shoulder.

  5. #5
    Site Supporter Oldherkpilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spelingmastir View Post
    Does lowering the optic help at all?

    Also, I’d be happy with a good 25 yard zero and using a hold at greater distances. 2” high at 50 is awesome to me. I have held at the shoulder.
    I realize its usable but if I want to shoot lighter loads (29-2 Smith) the hold under will get progressively worse. I am going to swap a different Holosun onto the revolver and see if I have the same issue. If not, I'll send the offender back for repair.

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    Quote Originally Posted by spelingmastir View Post
    I have a 509T mounted on a gen 5 G19 MOS with C&H plate. I zero at 25 yards and elevation is maxxed out. It’s a little high with 115 grain and higher than that with heavier bullets. Would changing to the Holosun OEM plate which places the optic a little lower help with this? Any other thoughts?
    Holosun RMR plate for the 509T and the shim if needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldherkpilot View Post
    Following this because I have 407C that is maxed out, too. 2" high at 50 yards and bottomed out.
    I use the shim on revolvers regularly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clusterfrack View Post
    That SUCKS. I would try a different plate. The OEM plate is steel, and I think that's a better materials choice than aluminum.
    One degree shim plate is what you are looking for.

    https://smile.amazon.com/Ade-Advance...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
    Last edited by JCN; 05-25-2022 at 10:46 AM.

  7. #7
    Deadeye Dick Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    Holosun RMR plate for the 509T and the shim if needed.



    I use the shim on revolvers regularly.



    One degree shim plate is what you are looking for.

    https://smile.amazon.com/Ade-Advance...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
    A plastic shim plate seems iffy… it’s cool that this exists though.
    “There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
    "You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie

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    Quote Originally Posted by Clusterfrack View Post
    A plastic shim plate seems iffy… it’s cool that this exists though.
    Delrin I think?

    Of course I use E6000 lol.

    EDIT: it’s not Delrin.

    But Shield SMS and Sig Romeo Zero are plastic optics so it’s not worse than that.

    In reality I’ve never had an issue since it’s so thin.

  9. #9
    Deadeye Dick Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    Delrin I think?

    Of course I use E6000 lol.
    Yes, but the optic is tightened before it hardens, so virtually all of the compressive stress is metal on metal. Now with a delrin shim, it’s plastic on metal. I have no idea if wear or cracking will occur after say 20k rounds, it seems more likely.
    “There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
    "You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clusterfrack View Post
    Yes, but the optic is tightened before it hardens, so virtually all of the compressive stress is metal on metal. Now with a delrin shim, it’s plastic on metal. I have no idea if wear or cracking will occur after say 20k rounds, it seems more likely.
    Can you explain this to me?

    The frame of those optics are plastic so the plastic frame of the optic gets cinched to metal of slide.

    I don’t know how that is different than a flat plate shim?

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