I've used an EGW dovetail mount on my M&P 2.0 for nearly 2 yrs. Solid, no problems at all. Shoot IDPA regularly as well as several thousand rounds of practice. It is a reasonable option if one doesn't want to mill a slide.
I've used an EGW dovetail mount on my M&P 2.0 for nearly 2 yrs. Solid, no problems at all. Shoot IDPA regularly as well as several thousand rounds of practice. It is a reasonable option if one doesn't want to mill a slide.
I’ve used a few Dueck Defense Mount on a couple of Glocks (507C, 407k and ACRO). I have no problem going between the Dueck equipped guns and a Staccato C w/ 507k in terms of finding the dot. Having a good/repeatable index is key.
Pros of the Dueck Mount
-no mill necessary
-comes with BUIS built in
-you can save a decent amount of money w/ buying the mount and 507C package from the Dueck Defense website.
Cons:
-BUIS will at least be serviceable for body shots out to 15 yards, but don’t expect it to be zeroed. One of the mounts I got required a little bit of filing to the front sight to raise POI. The other two required a hold-under. Windage was off to the left corner of the front sight on two of the mounts. Also, the short sight radius is not forgiving in regards to alignment errors.
-Install can be a pain. The mounts were a very tight fit in the dovetails of a Gen3 19 and Gen4 17. The mount can be hammered in, but I had the easiest time borrowing my buddy’s hydraulic press (the mount is too wide to fit most sight presses). At least there’s confidence it will be quite secure once it’s in.
If you’re looking for a Gen 3 G26 slide, Big Tex Ordnance has some in stock.
https://www.bigtexordnance.com/produ...7-g19-g26-g34/
Well, I hope I made the right decision. I just ordered the Brownells slide and the Holosun HE507c Gr X2.
Hopefully I will report back that everything fits, works and my accuracy and splits are way better, maybe even without my glasses. I have heard that it takes 500 to 1000 rounds to get used to a red dot, so there is that. It may be a while before I can report back with anything positive.
Oh well.
It's a good slide and optic. It uses special screws that come with the slide, not the ones that come with the optic.Originally Posted by Moonshot
If the dot transition is hard, get professional help before giving up. Even reputable shooters on YouTube have helped me a ton in a pinch. Truly target focusing and improving your presentation, and not over confirming are the hardest parts for most.
In case anyone is interested, I have a not-so-brief AAR…
I received my RMR cut slide from Brownells and my Holosun 507c Gr X2 from Primary Arms within a few days of ordering. Had a long phone conversation with Holosun prior to ordering. So far, customer service with all three has been excellent.
I do need to reach out to Holosun and find out how to clean and take care of the solar panel. The instruction manual doesn’t go over this.
I have been trained by a close friend who is a Glock armorer so I know how to take them apart and put them together, but I didn’t have the channel liner tool and unfortunately I failed to order one when I ordered my slide. Prior to ordering my slide I discussed my plans with my friend and he said the channel liner should go in fairly easily and he never uses a tool. This may be true for OEM slides, but it was bad advise as far as the Brownells slide went. My spare OEM channel liner would not go in. This delayed my project by about a week.
When the simple plastic insert only tool I ended up ordering from Brownells came (the better steel tool that will both put in and remove the channel liner was out of stock), I had to really pound the liner in with my hammer. The hardest part was determining how far I had to hammer it home, and I ended up resorting to estimating how far my stock slide had its liner in and trying to match this on the Brownells slide. I had horrible visions of hammering the channel liner too hard and seeing it pop out thru the breech face.
Once that was in, putting the parts I took out of my stock slide and into the Brownells slide was easy. I oiled it up and mounted it on the frame with no issues. Fit and function seemed perfect.
I then got the Holosum mounted easily enough. Again, fit was perfect. I took the advise here and used the screws that came with the slide, not the optic. There were two lengths of screw and no clear instruction on which to use. I went with the longer screws as I figured more thread contact with the posts was a good thing and the screw heads are still flush with the top of the optic base. Holosun calls for 15 inch pounds of torque on the screws but I did not have a torque screw driver. I used blue lock tight and hand tightened it snug, but not cranked. Hopefully I did it right, or at least right enough.
I chose the Holosun for a couple of reasons. First it got great reviews on line and more importantly from several friends who use them, several of whom are LE. Second it offered several reticle options including the 2 MOA dot inside a 32 MOA circle, but mostly because I could get it with a green display. The fiber optic front sight on both my trainer slide and my carry slide is green. I’ve tried red, orange, yellow, white and green and I prefer green.
After getting everything mounted, I turned it on. All I can say is WOW! The reticle really pops, and is easy to pick up. I love the 2 MOA dot inside the 32 MOA circle option. It's crystal clear and sharp. The circle brings my focus straight to the dot. With my bifocals on I can easily and clearly find the dot and see the target. I experimented without my glasses on and here I prefer the dot alone.
The above was all dry firing at home. Finally came time to hit the range. I had to wait a bit and ended up testing it out during a class. Not only did everything work flawlessly but I’ve never shot better at distance while also shooting for time. There were a few times I struggled to find the dot, and it definitely takes getting used to, but I had no real negative experience with it. Picking up the dot and keeping it on target during multiples rapid fire strings was much easier than when using my fiber optic front sight. Even rapid fire strings one handed showed a marked increase in accuracy.
I did not do any low light work or try it without my glasses - yet. Maybe next time.
One range session is not enough to make any sweeping generalizations. We’ve all had good days and bad days. Maybe my last class was just another good day for me and the next time that same optic will have me fall short of my objectives. However, on the strength of that experience, I’m pretty impressed and I’m looking forward to getting the same setup on my carry gun.
That brings me to a few new questions for the experts here…
I could pick up another Brownells slide for my carry gun, but the RMR cut slides are out of stock right now. Also, if there is one complaint I have with the Brownells slide, it’s the cut out on top. I don’t like it and I don’t see its value. It’s just another way for dirt or debris to enter the action. However, I do like the forward slide serrations, and I never thought I would say that.
I could pick up a Brownells slide without the cut out that would need to be milled, or I could send in my Glock slide to get milled. My question -
Is there any reason to NOT get a Glock slide milled? When they cut through the Tennifer, what happens to the slide’s inherent durability and corrosion resistance? When I started this experiment I wanted to keep my stock slide unmodified in case I didn’t like using an optic and I went back to irons. However, now I’m pretty much on board and I wonder if there is any operational reason to prefer one slide over another. Most places offer after market finishing but I am convinced Tennifer is still the best.
Also, in researching slide milling, I see samples where the screw holes are flush with the base of the slide (Jagerworks and most others) and I have seen samples where the screw holes are actually posts that rise above the base of the slide and fit within the optic base (Brownells and Battlewerx).
Is one method better than another?
Finally, I need a new holster. My holster won’t work with the optic. I am looking for all kydex (no hybrids), IWB at the 3 or 4 o’clock position (no appendix carry), sweat shield on the carry side (same side as the buttons on the optic), molded for a Gen 3 and if possible - tuckable.
Tall order, I know. Any suggestions?
Last edited by Moonshot; 06-07-2022 at 10:42 AM.
Another AAR.
I've been playing with my optic and aftermarket barrels for about a year now, shooting on my own time and on frequent (once or twice per month) training with a local group. I have learned much in the last year and I have a few more observations to add to my initial OP and my earlier AAR.
First, I feel my optic (Holosun 507C X2 in green) has dramatically improved my speed and my accuracy over both my Amariglo fiber optics and my Heine irons. Nothing wrong about either set of irons, but I wear bifocals and the front sight of any iron is blurry. Not so blurry that I can't use them, because my accuracy is about the same with irons or optics (particularly inside 15 yards), but I am slower using irons. Much slower.
I have run maybe 2000 rounds thru my optic. Once I got the presentation down and stopped searching for the dot, and once I started remembering height over bore at closer ranges, using the dot almost seems like second nature.
I use the dot in the circle. If I am running a drill without my glasses I will sometimes run the dot by itself as there is less clutter, but I will carry with the dot in the circle, so that is how I practice 99% of the time. The only issue I have found with this optic setting is if I am shooting at very long ranges, say 25+ yards and if I am standing under a very bright overhead light. That overhead light tends to force the optic into its brightest mode which can cause it to overlap the small 9 and 10 ring on a B8 target at 25+ yards. Kind of like running irons only - I've lost the crisp 2 mil dot. I have to slow down, but at 25+ yards I should be slowing down.
One thing I did notice recently, I need to include checking my battery tray screw for tightness when I clean my gun after shooting. I always check my mounting screws, but I never thought to check the battery tray screw. On my last training class, while running a drill with a lot of movement, I suddenly lost my dot. I completed the drill as best I could (no BUIS yet, so this was another learning experience), and it was then we noticed the battery tray was missing. I checked with Holosun and they indicated the indoor lighting was probably not enough to run the solar cells alone. I am getting a spare battery tray and screw from Holosun. Their service and help has been outstanding.
I did run into several problems with my Brownells slide that came milled for an RDS. As I mentioned in an earlier post, these slides have a cutout in the top, directly in front of the ejection port (similar to a G34). What purpose it serves I have no idea. I didn't want it but that was all they had in pre-milled slides. Long story short, I had many, many failures to feed using that slide. Some failures to extract, but mostly failures to feed. I had trainers check me for limp wristing, I changed all my training magazines to new, I made sure the extractor depressor plunger channel was clear of any optic mounting screw, I made sure the gun was cleaned and lubed before each class.
No change. Kept getting feeding failures. I called Brownells and they let me return my slide for a full refund (actually in-store credit, as I had the slide for some time by then). They were great to work with. I used the credit to buy another Brownells slide, this time without the optic milling, but also without the slide cutout in front of the ejection port. Sent it to Battlewerx for a milling job (and moving the rear sight channel to in front of the optic along with their black DLC coating). I've since put over 1000 rounds thru this setup on my trainer with zero malfunctions.
I have acquired another Holosun optic and I have another Brownells slide out to Battlewerx for the same treatment, each destined for my carry gun.
I have also finally found two holsters that work great with my baby Glock and optic. I am using a Comp-Tac Warrior OWB right now, even though my carry gun does not yet have the new slide and optic on it. It's basically a Kydex version of the Glock Sport Combat holster, but this one completely covers the barrel (something the Glock holster should have done). I find the Warrior holster lets me get a faster and more secure grip on the frame than any IWB holster I have tried in which I have to jam my thump in between my body and the frame. I run Talon granulate tape on my guns, so maybe that works to slow down my hand on an IWB, but I love how these grips lock the gun in place, much better than my standard Gen 3 grip texture and better than the Talon rubber.
I have also picked up a Vedder Protuck IWB cut for an optic. I don't have much time with this holster yet, but it has a sweat shield, two point attachment to my belt, it's tuckable. very comfortable, and again - cut for my optic. I conceals better than my Warrior holster, but my draw is a little slower. Just a little. I haven't yet decided which will become my EDC holster, but I'm keeping both.
Anyway, I wanted to provide an update. Hope someone found it interesting.
Last edited by Moonshot; 09-01-2023 at 03:02 PM.
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