Accurate factory .44 Specials?

[jtcarm]

I’m trying to decide whether to try & rehab my 24-3 one more time.

Without writing its whole history, it has been plagued by end shake since shortly after I bought it new. It’s sat in the safe for some years.

Before I invest any more time & money in gunsmithing and bullet moulds, I’d like to get some idea if it’ll shoot worth a crap using a load known to
be reasonably accurate.

[1911Nut]

I’m trying to decide whether to try & rehab my 24-3 one more time.

Without writing its whole history, it has been plagued by end shake since shortly after I bought it new. It’s sat in the safe for some years.

Before I invest any more time & money in gunsmithing and bullet moulds, I’d like to get some idea if it’ll shoot worth a crap using a load known to
be reasonably accurate.

Back when I occasionally shot a .44 Special revolver, I found this to be good factory ammo. Accuracy at 25 yards was very good, and recoil was moderate,

https://www.luckygunner.com/44-speci...-dot-20-rounds

[HCM]

I’m trying to decide whether to try & rehab my 24-3 one more time.

Without writing its whole history, it has been plagued by end shake since shortly after I bought it new. It’s sat in the safe for some years.

Before I invest any more time & money in gunsmithing and bullet moulds, I’d like to get some idea if it’ll shoot worth a crap using a load known to
be reasonably accurate.

I’ve had excellent results with Black Hills 210 grain LSWC with both a 6” 624 and a 5” 24- unfortunately I haven’t seen it available since COVID.

[358156hp]

Find yourself a really, really good pistolsmith and tell him exactly what you want. There are a lot of good S&W guys out there, too bad Ron Power is retired, but there are others.

If I were in your position, I'd go for it.

[RJ]

Paging @Malamute

[OlongJohnson]

I used end shake shims from https://triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.php#S10 on my M&P 340. Worked great and was cheap. Only gunsmithing required was the use of feeler gauges and disassembly/reassembly.

[jtcarm]

I used end shake shims from https://triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.php#S10 on my M&P 340. Worked great and was cheap. Only gunsmithing required was the use of feeler gauges and disassembly/reassembly.

Yeah it’s already got 2 Power .002 shims and can take another. Then I’ve still got a .009 BC gap.

[Malamute]

Yeah it’s already got 2 Power .002 shims and can take another. Then I’ve still got a .009 BC gap.

Go ahead and get the end shake squared away before doing anything else, if its loose it can batter it and open up faster. Keeping the yoke barrel well lubed can help in that regard (reduce battering). Mr Linebaugh suggests keeping heavy oil on the ends of Ruger SA cylinders for that reason, he feels it cushions the movement upon firing.

The BC gap you are somewhat stuck with until the barrel is set back a turn and the gap re-set. Brownells used to sell a tool for this, though Ive never seen one in person. Id like to have one but its a bit out of my budget for the little Id use one. Its technically within spec at .009" according to Smith, and works, but most of us like them a little closer.

@WayneDobbs may know more about getting your gun back in order, hes way smarter than I am about them, as is @Outpost75

[Wayne Dobbs]

Before you seek ammo for testing, get the revolver squared away on the end shake and BC gap. I'd suggest Dave Fink at Gunsite or Frank Glenn in PHX. @Outpost75 may have others to recommend.