Ammoshop loose 124gr Geco squib,…

[revchuck38]

The wooden dowel absorbs too much of the force you're applying. The usual tool for this is a "range rod". The metal is softer than your barrel so it won't hurt the barrel.

[HeavyDuty]

The wooden dowel absorbs too much of the force you're applying. The usual tool for this is a "range rod". The metal is softer than your barrel so it won't hurt the barrel.

I have brass rods that I got at the hardware store - they’re cheap and handy. I cut them to length when needed.

[revchuck38]

I have brass rods that I got at the hardware store - they’re cheap and handy. I cut them to length when needed.

This would work too, and probably be cheaper and faster to get. 5/16" is .31xx so that's a possibility. Remember that your bullet diameter (.355) is groove diameter, I think that the distance between lands is .34something.

[mmc45414]

The rubber mallet isn't helping, it's limiting the actual force that's transmitted (that's why it bounces). You'll probably have much better luck with a hammer ... Several firm taps on the floor

The wooden dowel absorbs too much of the force you're applying.

And probably strike against a sturdy surface, like the floor. It surprises me even when using my kinetic pullet puller how there is a difference between hitting the wooden workbench or the concreate floor.

And a brass rod or range rod is optimal, but I have had good results with a cut down section of one of these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-48-...ve-Rod/3025196
One was broken from getting run over and before I threw it away it occurred to me that it might make a good squib rod. Some people also put an empty casing over the end you are hitting with the hammer. And be sure you are driving it back out the way it came, I am wondering a little bit if there might be an issue with the bullet being out of spec.

Do you have access to a large vice? It surprises me how much force can be generated pushing something rather than driving it.

[HeavyDuty]

Some people also put an empty casing over the end you are hitting with the hammer.

A primed case would be sportier.

[Leroy Suggs]

Proper size brass rod. 2# steel hammer. Chamber end of barell on hard surface. Hit it HARD.
It will come out.

[mmc45414]

A primed case would be sportier.

I guess my posts should come with a safety warning...

[awp_101]

I guess my posts should come with a safety warning...

[SecondsCount]

Proper size brass rod. 2# steel hammer. Chamber end of barell on hard surface. Hit it HARD.
It will come out.

An old piece of 2X4 is a good hard surface. Don't put it on concrete or it will damage the barrel.

[Chomps]

Thanks everyone for all the great feedback.

It might just b me & the way my wonky brain is reading these posts, but it sounds like some of you are saying DONT try to push it BACK out the chamber end. And then some post read to me like they’re suggesting doing EXACTLY that!😳

The base of the bullet is just barely into the barrel maybe 3-4mm into the rifled section past the breach/chamber. Although it’s certainly a much shorter distance for this to have to travel,… I was under the impression that I did NOT want to try and back it out through the chamber end of the barrel. Is that correct? Do I need to Be careful to push this Stuck SOB ALL the way out thru the muzzle end to avoid damaging anything??

I’m concerned that it could damage the feed ramp bracing that end on any surface wood or other and trying to back it out the chamber. But also damn,…. It’s got s LOOOONG way to travel before it can come out the muzzle end.