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Thread: M65-3 3"

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Malamute View Post
    FWIW, thats not a factory mainspring, or at least if doesnt look like theyve looked for the past geologic age or so. If youre wanting to mess with the screw any, or have ignition problems, keep that in mind, it may save frustration.
    You are right. The previous owner bought a wolff revolver shooters pack. He replaced the mainspring with a Wolff type 1 standard power main spring. He told me he didnít change the rebound spring. But he did supply me with the rest of the pack if I wanted to mess around with the springs. Here is a picture of what he gave me.

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  2. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Florida
    Quote Originally Posted by revchuck38 View Post
    If you're planning on shooting .357s, I'd go with Pachmayr Compacts.
    This.. It also keeps the "retro look" Very Nice Score.
    Be Aware-Stay Safe.

  3. #23
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    South Louisiana
    I've got three S&Ws that I sent through the S&W Performance Center for their "Combat Revolver" package. They all got the Wolff mainspring installed by the PC, and they've all been 100%. If the gun runs as is, I wouldn't mess with it. Note that there are two flavors of that mainspring, standard power and reduced power. The reduced power often gives light strikes when shooting DA.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by 4given View Post
    Any suggestions for smaller grips would be welcome. Maybe just a pair of Hogue Bantams?
    Nice score.

    The Hogue Bantams are good, especially if the finger grooves play well with your hand; the rubber is bit "grabby" on cover garments if you're planning to carry concealed. VZ makes excellent grips, too, if you're okay with a little extension past grip bottom increasing overall profile; I prefer their checkered "tactical diamond" texture.

    Best combination of compact for carry but reasonably hand-filling for control I've used are PGS Hideouts. I heavy stipple them with a soldering iron and then smooth to taste, as it were, with fine sandpaper.

    If you're going to carry it, I wouldn't bother with the bead blast unless the polish really gnaws at you.
    Hainít we got all the fools in town on our side? And ainít that a big enough majority in any town?

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by 4given View Post
    Those look nice but I can't find them anywhere is stock. Not even Ebay
    Thatís just as well, because Uncle Mikes are are the grips you REALLY want.


  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by 4given View Post
    You are right. The previous owner bought a wolff revolver shooters pack. He replaced the mainspring with a Wolff type 1 standard power main spring. He told me he didnít change the rebound spring. But he did supply me with the rest of the pack if I wanted to mess around with the springs. Here is a picture of what he gave me.

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    As Stephanie pointed out, Iíd definitely check out the strain screw and replace if itís been tampered with.

  7. #27
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    The Wolff springs may be fine, but with the several things thats been done with this gun, Id shoot it some before carrying it.

    Ive had a couple Wolff S&W mainsprings in the past, but they felt a bit softer than I was comfortable with and i put standard factory mainsprings in them. Same for modified strain screws. If I buy a gun with such parts i toss them and put factory standard parts back in it. Id rather spend the time hand polishing parts than using reduced springs to achieve smoother trigger action. YMMV of course.

    Mine have been extremely functionally reliable in some conditions that some would consider abuse or neglect.
    "But whatever, life is too short to be normal." RR

    Pro Biscuit

  8. #28
    Thanks for all the input folks. I truly appreciate it!

    Well, I took the revolver out to the range Saturday Morning and sure enough, I had several light primer strikes. I was shooting my reloads so that may or may not have contributed to the problem. However, we took my wife's M64 4" and shot the same reloads through hers without a hitch. I have never had these issues with my 38 special reloads in any of my other revolvers so I doubt that was the problem.

    I also ran 6 precious rounds of Speer GD 38 Special 135 +P off the bags without issue. I am happy to report it really likes them and shot POA at 15 yards with a tight group. This could serve well as a carry load when I get this thing up and running well.

    When I got home I removed the the strain screw and compared it with the strain screws from my M66 square butt and my wife's M64 round butt. It looks like the strain screw may have been tampered with so I ordered a new one. Here are some pictures:

    M66 SB vs M65 RB:

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    M64 RB (top) vs M65 RB (bottom)

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    So I have a question, when installing / reinstalling the strain screw how much do you tighten it down? After I reassembled my wife's M64 she commented it felt different and harder to cock the hammer. I screwed it all the way in.

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Wingate's Hairbrush View Post
    Nice score.

    The Hogue Bantams are good, especially if the finger grooves play well with your hand; the rubber is bit "grabby" on cover garments if you're planning to carry concealed. VZ makes excellent grips, too, if you're okay with a little extension past grip bottom increasing overall profile; I prefer their checkered "tactical diamond" texture.

    Best combination of compact for carry but reasonably hand-filling for control I've used are PGS Hideouts. I heavy stipple them with a soldering iron and then smooth to taste, as it were, with fine sandpaper.

    If you're going to carry it, I wouldn't bother with the bead blast unless the polish really gnaws at you.
    I think I will just leave it polished. It actually looks pretty good the way it is.

  10. #30
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    Quote Originally Posted by 4given View Post
    Thanks for all the input folks. I truly appreciate it!

    Well, I took the revolver out to the range Saturday Morning and sure enough, I had several light primer strikes. I was shooting my reloads so that may or may not have contributed to the problem. However, we took my wife's M64 4" and shot the same reloads through hers without a hitch. I have never had these issues with my 38 special reloads in any of my other revolvers so I doubt that was the problem.

    I also ran 6 precious rounds of Speer GD 38 Special 135 +P off the bags without issue. I am happy to report it really likes them and shot POA at 15 yards with a tight group. This could serve well as a carry load when I get this thing up and running well.

    When I got home I removed the the strain screw and compared it with the strain screws from my M66 square butt and my wife's M64 round butt. It looks like the strain screw may have been tampered with so I ordered a new one. Here are some pictures:

    M66 SB vs M65 RB:

    Name:  67424581480--F474DE65-B03C-4556-BDF6-C46B5526B209.jpg
Views: 77
Size:  57.7 KB


    M64 RB (top) vs M65 RB (bottom)

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Views: 78
Size:  57.9 KB


    So I have a question, when installing / reinstalling the strain screw how much do you tighten it down? After I reassembled my wife's M64 she commented it felt different and harder to cock the hammer. I screwed it all the way in.
    It should be snugged down firmly.

    Yes, the RB and SB mainspring strain screws are different, as is the hole depth in the frame where they fit. Doing a square butt to round butt conversion, you can end up with an oddball screw. I worked the head down and recut the screw slot when i did it.

    Ive seen the screws left loose to adjust the feel, shortened some to make the spring feel softer, and ive seen the mainsprings tweeked, which I think most dont realize happens, based on comments about them (The spring is too hard/soft, I'll get another one...."). Its relatively simple to put a wedge between the frame and spring on either side when installed and twist it to tweek it stronger or softer. Im not really a fan of it, but I suppose if the one doing it has sufficient experience to know where the reliability point is, it may be OK. I prefer full factory strength mainsprings for the most part on carry guns and improve the action or trigger feel with slicking up the action parts. Springs are not "an action job".
    "But whatever, life is too short to be normal." RR

    Pro Biscuit

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