Recommendations for entry level fly fishing brands

[TOTS]

I’m at the point where it makes sense to get my own rig rather than rent from outfitters but I’m not fishing enough to invest in another hobby. Maybe three trips a year. I plan on grabbing some decent used gear from ebay and Amazon and am looking to you guys for some good brands to look for, especially a decent used reel. I’m fine with a cheap rod from Walmart or Amazon as I’ll be traveling for a trip this summer and it’s easier to buy when I get there than fly with a rod.

Without really knowing what I’m talking about I’m planning on a large arbor reel for 3/4 wt line, 9ft leaders, a 9ft 4/5 wt rod and getting whatever flys are matching the area I’m going to from the local outfitters. I already have a small net. Waders are not in the picture due to budget; I’ll either rent if I need them or fish the bank.

I’ll mainly be fishing streams in Appalachian NC or TN but do have one trip planned for MT. Not specifically focusing on any kind of fish, just want to catch something!

For a new rig, and avoiding blatant Chinesium, I’m liking this Orvis rig. https://www.amazon.com/Orvis-Encount...cx_mr_hp_atf_m

Thoughts?

[knownothing]

That Orvis rig will work fine, Cabela’s has a few cheap set ups as well that would be just fine. I would recommend a five wt 9 foot rod, and if you do plan on traveling, get a four piece or six piece rod.

I would not necessarily worry about a large Arbor reel, if there is one place to spend your money on with a budget set up, I would suggest spending it on some quality line. Replace whatever the cheap set up has and buy some line from say scientific angler‘s or Orvis that cost more than what the budget rod cost. Best advice I ever received myself, so that is why I am passing it onto you. That will make all the difference in the world with your ability to cast, which translates to how much you enjoy flyfishing and your ability to catch fish.

[mtnbkr]

+1 to what knownothing said. The line is probably the more important part of the system and the real is near the bottom.

FWIW, I happen to like fiberglass rods. The slower action suits how I like to fish better. The only fly outfit I own these days is a little 5'9" 3-weight glass rod from Cabelas (CGR series) with a matching reel. It's a great set up for fishing in tight spots with lots of overhangs and such. Panfish feel like monsters on it. I've had mine for 5-6 years now and it's still holding up just fine.

Chris

[RJ]

Paging @flyrodr

[flyrodr]

@TOTS

I was born and raised in WNC, have fly fished all over the state, all around the US including lots "Out West" and in some distant places. And I used to write for some now defunct FF magazines (some friends suggested the demise of those was perhaps more than coincidental to my participation . . .).

I agree, for the most part, that the fly line is the most important piece of ensuring you have a well-balanced and functional rod/reel/line/leader outfit. Bear with me, and I'll share my opinions on the components.

TLDR: Get one of the balanced outfits (rod/reel/line) from one of companies that offer such outfits. I'll admit a bias toward Temple Fork Outfitters (TFO), because Rick Pope, who started the company is a great friend. He brought the likes of Lefty Kreh, Ed Jaworowski, and others in to help refine the rod tapers. And he enlisted a Korean engineer who is a whiz with carbon fiber construction to build the rods. Besides being a super nice guy and angler, Rick was a world class skeet shooter back in the '70s. Some of the records he and his teammates set are still standing. Google Cosmic Cowboys.

That said, there are lots of other companies with similarly good outfits at moderate prices. Echo is one. The aforementioned Orvis and other big boxes (Cabela's for one). Check out not only the prices, but these companies warranties (there are a bunch offering long term or lifetime warranties, but might have a set charge for S&H, etc., maybe as much as $100).

Esoterica:

The line is the only part of the outfit that is built to design standards. Taking a WF-5-F as a "typical" line for most trout fishing, the "5" designates the weight of the first 30 feet of the line (exc. any level front tip). The 5-wt standard is 140 grains, with an acceptable range of 134-146 grains.

A corresponding rod, labeled as a "5 weight", is supposedly designed to balance with a 5-wt line. That "balance" is determined by the rod maker. There is no standard for rod design or action (basically where the rod flexes during casting). Some prefer a moderate action, or a tip action (the rod flexes mostly in the tip and thus faster), or a slow action (flexing more toward the butt). There has been a tendency in recent years to build stiffer/faster rods for a given line weight which can win parking lot casting contests, but may or may not fit a person's style or fishing situation. Think of them as "magnums". For many casters, some of these rods were too fast (too stiff) and they couldn't get the rod loaded (flexing) to make a good cast. Line makers, in many cases, were forced to make lines heavier-than-spec (sometimes as much as two line weights) to better load the rod.

For the most part, certainly for typical Appalachian trout fishing (smaller streams, more streamside vegetation), "moderation" is, IMO, the path to follow. A moderate length rod (that'll work in NC/TN/VA, but also in MT/ID/WY), say 8' to 8 1/2'. And a "standard" weight forward (WF) or even double taper (DT) line, again, probably in 5 wt. The WF is designed for longer casting, which is not particularly an issue fort routing. The DT has the same tapers on each end, and can be reversed if one end begins wearing out after a couple of seasons (shouldn't be an issue if you're only fishing a few times a year).

The reel is, again for most trouting, a "line storage device". You don't need a finely machined reel, or a large arbor (although those are great for long-running fish, but size adds weight). So go with a relatively inexpensive one. But do admire the workmanship on some of the "big game" saltwater fly reels. They're awfully nice. Purdy, as we hillbillies say, or as in the "bespoke" British shotguns.

Regardless of what you get, keep in mind that fly lines are, for the most part, constructed of a level "core" coated with PVC. It's the PVC coating that is tapered. And it's fairly fragile. It'll last for several years, but you can't step on it and grind it on a stream rock or in streamside sand. And even in "crystal clear" water, the line will pick up algae or other "goo" and begin casting poorly and the tip will begin sinking. You'll need to occasionally clean the line. Don't use strong detergents or abrasive cleaners. There are tons of commercially made line cleaners. The key is getting the goo off the line. Even a clean, damp rag will help.

If you're new to fly fishing, and thus fly casting, realize it's sort of like shooting. We 'Mericans are all born as great shooters and casters, right? Uh - - - NO!. Just as with shooting, getting some help from a pro or good casting friend will start you off on the right path.

GOOD LUCK!

[TOTS]

Thanks all, for the advice. It’s all pretty much matching what I’ve been finding in my research. @flyrodr and all, I’ve established my budget at $200 and pretty much narrowed it down to a few options and just need to choose one. The Orvis I was looking at earlier has sort of been replaced as the Orvis doesn’t offer the same warranty the other companies do. So what I have settled on is a combo kit with a 4-5wt 9ft 4 pc rod and 5-6wt line with a 5x leader. Haven’t decided on the brand. Front runners are:

• TFO black label nxt kit - aluminum reel and medium action rod with a lifetime warranty but unknown quality line
• Redington Path 2 (may upgrade to the Vice for an aluminum reelbut the vice has a fast action rod) - composite reel and stocked with Rio line but some reviews say the rod is clunky
• Orvis Encounter (or Clearwater but too $) - composite reel , good rod but unknown line and no lifetime warranty
• Echo base kit - good reviews and price but medium fast action rod and composite reel, unknown line with lifetime warranty on rod but 12 months on reel.

Over to you guys if you have any thoughts on those kits. I’m thinking of the TFO as the winner unless you guys don’t think a faster action rod would be a detriment- then maybe upgrade to the Vice kit from Redington.

looking for used gear, I can get a nib but old model Lamson guru reel but id have to put together the rest of the kit. More so, my issue with it is it’s an old model and a 3-4 wt.

Again, thanks for the advice and keep the info coming! You already taught me a bunch; I was prepared to spend the bulk on a reel but learned the rod and line were more important!