Check those mounts!

[Exiledviking]

I cleaned all surfaces with rubbing alcohol and even hit the threads with a bronze brush. I was using the factory DUO plate to mount the SRO with liquid blue.

I even picked up a tube of ROCKSET to bed the plate in case the blue didn’t hold. I figured I’d always have a red dot on the gun, so a semi permanent mounting plate wouldn’t be out of question. I haven’t had to resort to the ROCKSET yet.

You might want to try E6000 on the mount and dot (if it's sealed on the bottom). JCN @JCN brought E6000 to my attention, and it's held the plate and optic in place well. It helped my buddy with his Staccato DPO. Plus, it's not permanent. Highly recommended.

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I even picked up a tube of ROCKSET to bed the plate in case the blue didn’t hold. I figured I’d always have a red dot on the gun, so a semi permanent mounting plate wouldn’t be out of question. I haven’t had to resort to the ROCKSET yet.

I use Rocksett on everything because I'm lazy. But the thing to remember is that Rocksett isn't really noticeably stronger than Loctite 242, and is much weaker than Loctite 271 at normal pistol temperatures. Rocksett is chosen for muzzle devices because it maintains its strength to very high temperatures, such as on a suppressor, where even Loctite 271 might fail.

[JCN]

You might want to try E6000 on the mount and dot (if it's sealed on the bottom). JCN @JCN brought E6000 to my attention, and it's held the plate and optic in place well. It helped my buddy with his Staccato DPO. Plus, it's not permanent. Highly recommended.

I’ve preached E6000 for plates so much now that I figure people who willfully ignore it are doing so to spite their faces.

Screw mounting plates asks an awful lot from a screw and it’s unnecessary. A little E6000 to mate plates can do so much more with no downside.

[Pnut]

Never heard of E6000 before, but I’ll look into it. Thanks! A quick search shows several different formulas… which is the best for this application?

[Exiledviking]

This is what we used. I 99% certain it's the same stuff JCN recommends.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-2-...7032/203279322

[JCN]

Never heard of E6000 before, but I’ll look into it. Thanks! A quick search shows several different formulas… which is the best for this application?

I like clear, industrial, high viscosity (but doesn’t matter that much).

Basically it goes on and comes off like rubber cement.

Make a very small dollop on mating surfaces and squish to spread.

It’ll basically keep the plate from micro-rubbing and sawing / battering the screw and keep the plate in place which makes the screws have to do much less.

I love it for plate to slide mating. I often use it for optic bodies too but you have to be a little more careful with where you apply in that case.

[eaglefrq]

I like clear, industrial, high viscosity (but doesn’t matter that much).

Basically it goes on and comes off like rubber cement.

Make a very small dollop on mating surfaces and squish to spread.

It’ll basically keep the plate from micro-rubbing and sawing / battering the screw and keep the plate in place which makes the screws have to do much less.

I love it for plate to slide mating. I often use it for optic bodies too but you have to be a little more careful with where you apply in that case.

I'm new to optics and this is the first time I've read this. I had a CHPWS plate for my Holosun 407K come loose after 200 rounds. I used the included Vibratite, but after that I switched to blue Loctite. Before my next range trip I may take the optic off and use the E6000 on the plate and then check zero once it's installed again. How long did you let the E6000 cure before going to the range? Did you use just one small dollop, or in a couple of places on the mating surfaces? Thanks for the great idea!

[JCN]

I'm new to optics and this is the first time I've read this. I had a CHPWS plate for my Holosun 407K come loose after 200 rounds. I used the included Vibratite, but after that I switched to blue Loctite. Before my next range trip I may take the optic off and use the E6000 on the plate and then check zero once it's installed again. How long did you let the E6000 cure before going to the range? Did you use just one small dollop, or in a couple of places on the mating surfaces? Thanks for the great idea!

I came up with this solution when I was having issues with my Shadow 2 optics ready plate and I was looking for a durable solution that wasn’t permanent if that makes sense.

Currently I use E6000 on a lot of stuff that I want vibration resistance.

Anything that get micro rub wear or shakes loose.

For mounting plates I basically use a thin layer with special attention to mating surfaces and bosses.

I usually just use the tube mouth to smear the layer as I squeeze but I have used toothpicks and small screwdrivers as applicators and spatula.

Usually 24 hours of cure is more than sufficient.

[eaglefrq]

I came up with this solution when I was having issues with my Shadow 2 optics ready plate and I was looking for a durable solution that wasn’t permanent if that makes sense.

Currently I use E6000 on a lot of stuff that I want vibration resistance.

Anything that get micro rub wear or shakes loose.

For mounting plates I basically use a thin layer with special attention to mating surfaces and bosses.

I usually just use the tube mouth to smear the layer as I squeeze but I have used toothpicks and small screwdrivers as applicators and spatula.

Usually 24 hours of cure is more than sufficient.

Thanks for the information. I am getting ready to put an optic on my G19 and will do this on that one as well.

[Pnut]

So I broke down and got some E6000 for my STI. After a thorough cleanup of all surfaces, screws and holes, I put down a thin layer on the slide cut. I was careful to avoid the screw holes. I applied red locktite to the mounting plate screws and torqued it down to 20 in/lbs. I then secured the SRO to the plate with blue locktite… no E6000, to 15 in/lbs.

Some E6000 seeped out from between the plate and slide. I let it dry and then removed it with nylon brush and a rubber eraser.

Does my process sound about right?