Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Do I Need This For My New Suppressor?

  1. #11
    Member helothar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Twin Cities
    Quote Originally Posted by Casual Friday View Post
    I would not take the risk, but it's your can.

    Don't pay 80 bucks for a Surefire or Geissele. Buy the appropriate size drill rod from McMaster Carr, cut it to length and chamfer the ends. They run about 20 bucks last time I checked.
    i'm guessing chamfering is to not damage the bore? sorry for the probably dumb question but would something like this work fine to chamfer these: https://www.amazon.com/Deburring-Ext...07ZSFH918&th=1

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by 23JAZ View Post
    What would be the best diameter for checking alignment on a 9mm?
    I'll defer to the experts:

    "The Geissele SAG is manufactured from hardened steel that
    has been ground 0.002” under nominal bore diameter. The
    outside diameter of the SAG is finely finished and straight to
    0.001” over its length. Geissele hardens the SAR so that it
    will not wear by sliding exposure to abrasive powder residue,
    pull burrs if it slides against misaligned baffles nor allow
    abrasive particle to imbed into the surface of the gage.
    There can be a wide variation in barrel bore diameters and
    bore straightness. 0.002” under nominal bore diameter has
    been found to be the best size of the SAG that will fit most
    barrels. The long length of the SAG aligns the gage to the
    bore; it is not necessary to have a very tight fitting gage with
    the long length of the Geissele SAG."


    https://geissele.com/amfile/file/dow...bb/product/35/

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by helothar View Post
    i'm guessing chamfering is to not damage the bore? sorry for the probably dumb question but would something like this work fine to chamfer these: https://www.amazon.com/Deburring-Ext...07ZSFH918&th=1

    Yes, just so you're not gouging the bore, and perhaps to make it easier to slip past baffles.

    I wouldn't buy the tool, I'd just use a fine file or grind it. Anything that knocks off the corner and leaves a smooth surface would work.


    (Alternatively, tell your wife you need to buy a lathe to mount the suppressor :-) )

  4. #14
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Quote Originally Posted by whomever View Post
    I'll defer to the experts:

    "The Geissele SAG is manufactured from hardened steel that
    has been ground 0.002” under nominal bore diameter. The
    outside diameter of the SAG is finely finished and straight to
    0.001” over its length. Geissele hardens the SAR so that it
    will not wear by sliding exposure to abrasive powder residue,
    pull burrs if it slides against misaligned baffles nor allow
    abrasive particle to imbed into the surface of the gage.
    There can be a wide variation in barrel bore diameters and
    bore straightness. 0.002” under nominal bore diameter has
    been found to be the best size of the SAG that will fit most
    barrels. The long length of the SAG aligns the gage to the
    bore; it is not necessary to have a very tight fitting gage with
    the long length of the Geissele SAG."


    https://geissele.com/amfile/file/dow...bb/product/35/
    So with .350” lands and .354” grooves. I should be good with a .348” rod?
    212

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by helothar View Post
    i'm guessing chamfering is to not damage the bore? sorry for the probably dumb question but would something like this work fine to chamfer these: https://www.amazon.com/Deburring-Ext...07ZSFH918&th=1
    That would work, but I just spin the edge on a disc sander.

  6. #16
    The drill rods from McMaster Carr come in 3ft or 6ft lengths. I bought a 3ft chunk and cut mine out of the center of the rod where in theory it should be the straightest. I don't have any specialty measuring tools but it rolls smoothly over a thick pane of glass with no discernible wobble. When rotated inside the bore, the reveal on either side of the rod does not change in relation the suppressor. I store it in a chunk of the hard cardboard tube it shipped in that I cut to length.

    If I were running a 9" or longer suppressor with a tight bore for caliber, I might opt for the straightest rod I could get my hands on, but for a 6" YHM Turbo T2 I'm perfectly comfortable with the one I'm using.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by 23JAZ View Post
    So with .350” lands and .354” grooves. I should be good with a .348” rod?

    That's what Geissele seems to say.

    FWIW, I just miked my 22 and 30 cal rods and got .214x and .297x.

    I don't think it's critical; the idea isn't that the gauge is a slip fit in the bore, it is that there is ore rod inside the barrel than is sticking out into the suppressor, so gravity aligns the rod with the bore. In theory you could use a 22 rod for any bore size by rotating the rifle 360 degrees and watching the rod/suppressor clearance as you go. Heck, that's probably a good idea in any case, as is rotating the rod as mentioned above.

    You definitely want the rod setting on the bottom of the bore - if it tilts now you have to wonder how much error that is causing.

  8. #18
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Quote Originally Posted by whomever View Post
    That's what Geissele seems to say.

    FWIW, I just miked my 22 and 30 cal rods and got .214x and .297x.

    I don't think it's critical; the idea isn't that the gauge is a slip fit in the bore, it is that there is ore rod inside the barrel than is sticking out into the suppressor, so gravity aligns the rod with the bore. In theory you could use a 22 rod for any bore size by rotating the rifle 360 degrees and watching the rod/suppressor clearance as you go. Heck, that's probably a good idea in any case, as is rotating the rod as mentioned above.

    You definitely want the rod setting on the bottom of the bore - if it tilts now you have to wonder how much error that is causing.
    According to SAMMI nominal bore diameter for 9mm is .346” so I ordered .3437” with a +\- .001 diameter tolerance and a +|- .005” straightness tolerance. It was the closest they had without going over.
    Last edited by 23JAZ; 03-15-2022 at 03:24 PM.
    212

  9. #19
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Ok I got the 3’ tight tolerance rod from McMaster. I work in manufacturing quality so I had one of my engineers put the rod on a lathe. He cut it in half and squared and chamfered all edges. Roll tested on our granite table for flatness on both was good and the diameter it spot on.
    So anyway now I have two 9mm alignment rods and I only need one. I’d be more than happy to give it to someone that needs it. All I ask is you cover shipping. Shitty mods, if this should be in Karma please let me know and I’ll post it there.
    Name:  112207EB-B8B6-4EEA-BB3F-B5A21A684CAE.jpg
Views: 149
Size:  9.8 KBName:  E76393BF-3316-42CF-AD05-FBF1F4FD7B05.jpg
Views: 153
Size:  22.4 KBName:  50A97446-1A39-4C33-9E13-90C60DB01CF9.jpg
Views: 158
Size:  19.4 KBName:  B43B9607-F593-4C37-A680-3F59F7059A22.jpg
Views: 138
Size:  22.5 KB
    212

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •