So far so good after getting it out of the gun and scrubbing it down with Eezox and a nylon then copper brush to kill the rust. It's back in the holster and has been fired a few times without further issue. I've had pretty good luck with Eezox killing rust before and keeping it away so I'm optimistic but will still be checking it several times a week.
LTT didn't ask for me to send it in, Mark just replied that it was all-stainless so stain resistant, not stain proof and black nitride coated so some maintenance/lubrication may still be needed. I didn't ask them for a return or refund of any kind, just wanted to give them the heads up.
I was always pleasantly surprised that none of my previous versions never exhibited any corrosion. I've had rear sights, roll marks, set screws, etc. even on Glocks that get carried and used eventually show oxidation. Never on a gadget though and this just happened to be on a part intended to move freely that it's presence inhibited and seemed to show up quickly after being good the week prior.
I'd still buy another in a second if I had a Glock in need. I've never heard of another issue with them outside of maybe the pin on a couple of high round count Gadgets and there have to be millions out there in use by dudes who carry and use their gear for the tools they are. I may take the one out of my dry fire/backup and put it in my EDC without any lubrication and see what it does when exposed to the same conditions.
Do the coterie here lube theirs or am I just the slacker and have been lucky until now?
In one physical model of the universe, the shortest distance between two points is a straight line... in the opposite direction, Danny. -Ty Webb
For what it’s worth, I had an LTT scd in a bag on my work bench (coastal NC) show some small corrosion spots. Never had any corrosion on my Tau SCDs. Don’t care; just glad we have new SCDs.
If LTT is using the same alloy spec of stainless that TDG used, then I might want to know if their supplier is providing material that actually meets the spec. Same goes for the finishing process, if they’re outsourcing that.
Installed my third LTT SCD this evening on a new irons only G19.5. Packaging was a little different.
Food Court Apprentice
Semper Paratus certified AR15 armorer
That's a valid question and one I had not thought of it as it's been a while since I've regularly carried and put the same miles on any gun other than a Glock. Never had rust on a Beretta 92 that I first carried, had a tiny bit show up in the roll marks on a well used and worn USP 40 after it got left in a laptop bag for a bit after a trip to Florida in August heat and humidity, and none so far on a Warren Tactical Series but it's not carried very often anymore, mostly when I'm just trying to maintain proficiency with a 1911. Maybe my chemistry changed after my birthday this year, my Dad has told me for a while that everything changes after 40...
Will keep an eye on that. Why no bueno if it's slightly wet; is the concern with it acting as a solvent in areas where more concentrated or pooling? I genuinely don't know as I haven't used it on a lot of things, only to knock out rust when it showed on the USP roll marks and scrubbing some Dawson rear sights that showed a little rust on a G19.4 that I wore everywhere for years in SC heat and humidity. The rear sights on that gun were the only thing that ever showed any rust from being right against the skin.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
In one physical model of the universe, the shortest distance between two points is a straight line... in the opposite direction, Danny. -Ty Webb
It's designed to work as dry lubricant/protectant by leaving a sort of waxy film once the carrier solvent has evaporated. If it doesn't dry after a couple hours it must be wiped lightly with cloth to allow it to dry. It will become gummy and attract debris if left wet and may not work as well for protection though I cannot say.