I have a P320 safety lever set that I’d like to recountour and have refinished in nitride. Does anyone have a service they can recommend for small part refinishing without a huge minimum order? I think I want to avoid spray coatings because of the potential for abrasion. Thanks!
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
I've had a few small parts nickeled by Briley. They let my stuff sit and sent it in when they had a larger lot of parts to go. Wasn't too expensive.
Might check and see if they do nitriding.
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Not another dime.
No experience, but these two popped up on a quick search:
https://chpws.com/product/black-nitr...-pistol-parts/
https://www.battlewerx.com/blacknitride/
Nitriding small parts can lead to embrittlement failures unless the parts are designed for the process. Knowing the alloy is also key for nitriding as some react to the process with corrosion or, more commonly, dimensional changes. Since the purpose of the finish is to stop corrosion, I would use Cerakote as it is fast, inexpensive, and safe for small geometries. It may abrade but it will still protect against corrosion.
I’m thinking it won’t be an issue since the parts are originally nitrided by SIG.Originally Posted by farscott
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
Nitriding parts that have been nitrided once before is not recommended by the companies that do this work.
Multiple-nitrided samples show oxidation and porosity in the near-surface part of the nitrided layer due to the interaction of iron with oxygen of the air upon decomposition of iron nitrides in the compound layer during re-nitriding. This results in reduced toughness and hardness in the near-surface part of the nitride layers.
Ooof. Scratch that idea. Thanks for the info!
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
I know what you're trying to do. Use Brownells Oxpho-Blue.
1) Do your re-contour work. I use a belt-sander and emory cloth.
2) Make sure you de-burr it.
3) Then use some rubbing alcohol to clean the part.
4) Heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer so the part is nice and warm.
5) Use a Q-tip and some Oxpho-Blue. You may have to use two or three Q-tips to get the look you want.
6) Use a dry Q-tip to rub off any excess blueing.
7) Coat it with some oil and let it sit for a bit to absorb the oil to stop the bluing process.
I've done this for years on small parts for me and other cops I work with. It'll look factory.
I’ll try that - thank you!
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”
You can buy very high concentration of rubbing alcohol. Like in the high 90% range--on same shelf as others. For me degreasing was the step where I sometimes erred. Boiling water poured over a small part held in a strainer degreases and heats the part too. Also I have suspended a small part by iron wire and dipped it in the bluing solution. Oil on one's fingers will contaminate the part after degreasing. Most of these solutions are toxic.
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