Fmj bullets with no cannelure in a revolver?

[03RN]

I'm thinking about getting some fmj bullets for competition to help with reloads. I use a lee fcd. I've never used jacketed bullets without a cannelure. Any issues?

[Outpost75]

Bullets may creep forward from inertial dislodgement, causing erratic velocity and possibly binding cylinder rotation unless they are either deep seated and crimped over the ogive, like USAF PGU-12B and-or glued in with Black Lucas like the WW2 .38 Special steel jacket FMJ rounds. Will probably also need to use smaller diameter expanding plug and tighter size die to obtain enough bullet pull to maintain acceptable ballistic uniformity. You want expander plug 0.002" smaller than bullet. M41 and PGU bullet in .38 Special was .3555" plus 0.0015, minus 0.0000

Lee FCD may help, but if you can rotate seated and crimped bullet with your fingers, therein lies a clue.

[03RN]

Bullets may creep forward from inertial dislodgement, causing erratic velocity and possibly binding cylinder rotation unless they are either deep seated and crimped over the ogive, or glued in with Black Lucas like the WW2 .38 Special steel jacket FMJ rounds. Will probably also need to use smaller diameter expanding plug and tighter size die to obtain enough bullet pull to maintain acceptable ballistic uniformity.

Lee FCD may help, but if you can rotate seated and crimped bullet with your fingers, therein lies a clue.

Ok, thanks. I guess I'll make sure to get bullets with a cannelure if I do go this route.

[revchuck38]

I've been using Rainier plated 158-grain RNs for a while. I've gone through a couple thousand of them and have about that many left to load. They don't have a cannelure. What I've done is seat them deeper, just to the point where the ogive begins to curve in, and do a mild roll crimp, making sure that the case mouth doesn't bite into the bullet. It doesn't take much of a crimp to prevent bullet creep, it pretty much follows the curve of the ogive. I load them to about 830 fps from a 4" barrel, which gives a PF of just over 130. I'm loading some now and settled on 5.2 grains of BE-86 and it's more like 840 fps, just mentioning this because you've written about using that powder. Note that FMJs need more powder to match a plated bullet's velocity.

I'm using these in .38 Special brass. If you want to load to Major in .357 Mag brass, you're on your own.

[BN]

I've been using Rainier plated 158-grain RNs for a while. I've gone through a couple thousand of them and have about that many left to load. They don't have a cannelure. What I've done is seat them deeper, just to the point where the ogive begins to curve in, and do a mild roll crimp, making sure that the case mouth doesn't bite into the bullet. It doesn't take much of a crimp to prevent bullet creep, it pretty much follows the curve of the ogive. I load them to about 830 fps from a 4" barrel, which gives a PF of just over 130. I'm loading some now and settled on 5.2 grains of BE-86 and it's more like 840 fps, just mentioning this because you've written about using that powder. Note that FMJs need more powder to match a plated bullet's velocity.

I'm using these in .38 Special brass. If you want to load to Major in .357 Mag brass, you're on your own.

I do the same with Berry 158 grain plated. I found that it was very important to sort brass by make and to make sure that each type would hold the bullet. RP brass was horrid. I used WCC military brass for my important match loads. It gave a slightly higher velocity with the same powder charge. I mostly use Bullseye powder. I have quit using the Lee crimp dies.

[03RN]

I guess this just got put on the back burner. I just ordered some more cast bullets from rimrock. 1600 swc-wn and 900wc. Should keep me busy into the spring

[1slow]

1970s C&H used to make a cannelure tool for cases and bullets. I was reloading for .45acp 1911. I had read George Nonte on reloading and had to have one. Still around somewhere. He was big into cannelure on both case and bullet to prevent setback.

Later I went to taper crimp dies for auto cartridges and had no problems.

Do not know if these are available any more.

[TiroFijo]

Just use a taper crimp, adjusted tight. Works fine for me.

[That Guy]

I've done the seat deep, roll crimp over bullet ogive thing to make IDPA ammo for my .45 Colt, using more readily available .45 ACP bullets. With my equipment the consistency wasn't great, but certainly sufficient for a typical IDPA match.

[R-71]

Bullets may creep forward from inertial dislodgement, causing erratic velocity and possibly binding cylinder rotation unless they are either deep seated and crimped over the ogive, like USAF PGU-12B and-or glued in with Black Lucas like the WW2 .38 Special steel jacket FMJ rounds. Will probably also need to use smaller diameter expanding plug and tighter size die to obtain enough bullet pull to maintain acceptable ballistic uniformity. You want expander plug 0.002" smaller than bullet. M41 and PGU bullet in .38 Special was .3555" plus 0.0015, minus 0.0000

Lee FCD may help, but if you can rotate seated and crimped bullet with your fingers, therein lies a clue.

I have some PGU-12B ammo and will try to post a pick later. I’ve never pulled a bullet but suspected they were loaded with a 38 super FMJBT bullet.

I would use the FCD unless you are shooting longer ranges.