J-frame Spring kits: Apex, Wolff, Wilson, or ?

[WDR]

I used a Wilson Combat spring kit in my 442. It did significantly reduce the pull, but I also cleaned up the rebound slide on a stone at the same time and dryfired a bunch to help smooth things out. I do not recall which rebound spring I used ( IIRC, it comes with three weights). The Wilson kit does not include an extended firing pin like the Apex kit, it's just a reduced power mainspring, and the different rebound springs.

After I installed the kit, I shot a bit of Tula steel case Russian junk (poooooor extraction!), and some CCI/Speer ammo, to test out the "will it still pop hard primers?" question. It did not then, nor has it since had a failure to fire, with 135gr Gold Dot, 130gr Ranger Bonded, or any of the various other ammo I've fed it, including Winchester ball/wadcutter, S&B wadcutter, and a bunch of various handloads of my own with Winchester and CCI primers. Round count is probably north of 2500 rounds now, I have not kept close track.

I'm surprised to see a few negative comments about the Apex kit, because at one time, it was the #1 go-to recommended kit for a J-frame here on PF. As with anything... its good to verify function after making changes, not matter what parts you use.

[Pistol Pete 10]

A few years ago I bought a 2nd 642, no lock. The trigger pull was extremely hard. I replaced the mainspring with a Wolff standard mainspring. This brought the pull down to what the other 642 is. I don't know why the extreme variation. Both guns are smooth, I didn't have to do any polishing to either one, just shoot them.

[ST911]

Per Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual (buy it through Brownells, it's worth every penny), the biggest part in these revolvers that will affect action smoothness is the rebound slide. From the factory, this part almost always has sharp corners and casting marks. A little bit of smoothing on the edges pays big dividends, without hurting reliability or safety.

One of the LSPs discussed that process in a great post here a few years ago. I remember that in addition to smoothing it out, it also resulted helped reset and reduced potential for a hang or stutter if the gun was modified closer to threshold.

[TWR]

If the side plate comes off, the stone comes out...

I don't touch the sear engagement areas but the rebound slide and sides of everything gets the edge knocked off.

[bofe954]

Are those with the failures with Apex kits using the extended firing pin?

[jandbj]

Now we have eliminated the warranty clerk, maybe somebody can recommend a knowledgeable J-smith.

In the New England area...

Karl Sokol : https://chestnutmountainsports.net

Mike LaRocca : http://laroccagunworks.com

Both do great work and don’t muck about with spring changes unless requested.

[paul105]

Are those with the failures with Apex kits using the extended firing pin?

Yes.

[Maca]

Karl Sokol has done several for me over the years, and all retained their original springs resulting in no stacking, smooth trigger pull that's lighter than factory.

[jandbj]

Mike LaRocca recently did my 351c. Took the trigger from WTF to OMG. Still heavier than a centerfire J frame, but so damn smooooooth.

[Horseman]

One of the LSPs discussed that process in a great post here a few years ago. I remember that in addition to smoothing it out, it also resulted helped reset and reduced potential for a hang or stutter if the gun was modified closer to threshold.

This has been my experience with S&W's, as well. A few minutes of careful work on that one specific part makes the action just feel better. A careful, slower than normal trigger press will result in actually feeling the cylinder stop rotating and lock, prior to ignition. Some old-timers used to use that last little bit of short press after the cylinder locked as a sort of "set trigger" while in DA mode, though most modern doctrine disallows this.